Rockfax Description
One of the original and best hard UK sport climbs which paved the way for limestone climbing in the 80s and beyond. After an easy start, the climbing is never desperate but continuously sustained and subtle. © Rockfax

Ticklists: THE classic old skool 8a's, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Mike and Connors 2 year plan, UK 8a and up, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rock cats getting strong, Wales Ticklist, UK sport, My Ticklist.

DeaNomNom 17/Nov/18 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Aug/18 Lead RP
jezb1 10/Jun/18 Lead dog

Clip stick used a lot.. Account open. A lot of moves done, some not, not many links.

Owen Diba 26/May/18 Lead dog
with Brian Taylor, Laurence Everitt
shaun goodey ??/2018 -
richiebongo 13/Aug/17 Lead dog

Fell off the first hard bit and then got shut down completely not being able to do some of the moves i did on my previous visit. It was warm though so maybe conditions didn't help.

pablosordo 13/Aug/17 2nd
Wise 05/Aug/17 TR dog

Classic. Did most of the moves individually but a very long way from linking much together.

DorsetGareth 05/Aug/17 TR dog

Really good. Did all the moves individually, but no big links. Need to get back on it. Apt to see Ben Moon at the crag while I was working it :)

with Wise
richiebongo 27/Jul/17 TR dog

Amazed to do all the moves on my second top rope go.

pablosordo 23/Jul/17 Lead dog
with ximo
maddy.c 25/Jun/17 -

Battled 2nd go but fell off very end. Did 3rd go. Very fun route.

nickmoulden 10/Apr/17 TR rpt
with zoe bidula
nickmoulden 06/Apr/17 Lead RP

1st rp in a day

with zoe bidula
Hidden ??/2017 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Oct/16 Lead RP
jonleighton 24/Sep/16 Lead RP

Really pleased to get this done - have tried it over a few sporadic sessions over the season and never really made much progress. Thought I wasn't fit enough to do it yesterday and it would just be a working session, so I was delighted to be wrong about that! Lovely to be able to flow through the moves.

Ed Booth 01/Sep/16 Lead RP
with Hans Gruber, anguskille
Elliot Walker 09/Aug/16 Lead RP

First of the grade! Small improvements every session was enough to get it done. Really incredible

with Harriet
Adam Lincoln 07/Aug/16 Lead RP

Not that hard for the grade, surprised people say its a tough 8a!

with Adam Jeewooth
Ed Booth 05/Aug/16 Lead dog

Balls, Dropped the last move twice. Should go next time hopefully.

with Rob Ireson
Adam Booth 15/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Quick play

nathanlee 17/Jun/16 Lead RP

Spent a morning on it in the sun a few weeks ago, felt great in the shade today. Stuck the clips in and led next go. Come on yes! Really brilliant top crux moves

with Jack Lawledge, goli
Ed Booth 17/May/16 Lead dog

Account open.

Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Matt.c.Warner 28/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Alex
OERees 14/Jun/15 Lead RP

After falling off twice after last bolt, sent 3rd go! Psyched!

OERees 12/Jun/15 Lead dog

3 RP attempts. Last attempt came off past last bolt going for LH gaston. Blew it!

OERees 11/Jun/15 Lead dog

2 work goes. 1 redpoint attempt.

Tophe 03/Jun/15 Lead RP
Tom Livingstone 28/May/15 Lead dog
with Oli Grounsell, Jack Lawledge
JM 15/Mar/15 Lead RP

A bit of a fight in damp conditions but so good to finally get this old classic done!

with Anna Reiners
UnkArl 13/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Opened my account and officially kicked off Project 8aBy40. The clock is ticking, 2yrs and 5months to go. First go up I frigged it to death with the clip-stick, apart from the bottom section I could barely do any of the moves - not a good start. Second time up (with the rope and draws in place) it started to come together, managed most of the individual moves after the heal-hook traverse. I was surprised at just how bad the feet are... Pysched to get back on it and start training properly.

shed_hed 07/Sep/14 Lead dog

Felt good after getting Bad Boy so jumped on this. Hard! Dogged on lead to the last clip and then dogged on second after that.

dswansonlow 07/Sep/14 Lead dog
matt30987 03/Sep/14 TR dog
with Dad
Luke Brooks 23/Aug/14 Lead RP

Bit of stamina training in the wall made the difference in the end. Took a fair bit of perseverance this one!

with Delyth
Luke Dawson 10/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Chas
Glyn 26/Jun/13 Lead RP

Awesome! One of the best 8a's I've ever done. Fantastic climbing. Messed up my sequence big time on the successful red point. Forgot to use the undercut on the top crux, had to match the side pull..sketchy! About 5th session. Maybe 8th red point

with Matt Smith
Ally Smith 02/Jun/13 TR dnf
Glyn 04/May/13 Lead dog

Two parts, progress. Worked out better sequence for top red point thin crux section

Ally Smith 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Matt Donnelly
westyb3 27/Jul/12 Lead RP

What a battle! great route!!!

with _m.cox_
Hidden 17/May/12 Lead RP
will smith11 01/Apr/12 Lead RP

A mental battle to stay relaxed and remember the foot beta for the top section. 4 redpoints last september and 6 this weekend, fell from the last few moves on 4 of them.

with Twisty
NickHarms ??/2012 Lead dog
bustermartin 25/Sep/11 Lead dog

ahh got to the end of the top traverse then got straight back on and went to the top

Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead RP
keefe 30/Jul/11 Lead RP

Finally put this nemesis to bed. 1st attempt of the day - finishing as the top groove was starting to get wet in the rain.

with Tansy
Ally Smith 24/Jul/11 Lead RP

Didn't feel that bad on redpoint

Ally Smith 09/Jul/11 Lead dog

Dogged then fluffed redpoint moving right at top. Tide forced an early retry and i didn't get into undercuts.

with Mark Owen
Dave Douglas 03/Jul/11 Lead dog
with the wife
Martin Cleaver 14/May/11 TR dog

day 1, some progress.

Hidden 01/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
hamer89 19/Oct/09 Lead RP

Totally Classic! Not bad for 1984

ksjs 05/Aug/09 TR dog

hard, harder than i expected. struggled with traverse (pumpy), cross-through move to slot (where do my feet go?) and then moves right into groove at top (no footholds!) all a bit rushed due to tide. need another go to get a real feel for moves but great to be on the route after walking past it so much...

with ally
Ally Smith 05/Aug/09 TR dog
with ksjs
Cassidy 22/Jul/09 Lead RP
with McGeek, Neil Busby
hutch 25/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 13/Apr/01 Lead RP
Mike Owen 25/Jul/98 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 04/Jul/98 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
sadams 09/May/98 Lead RP
with Pete Bukowski
Mike Owen 30/Aug/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
whispering nic ?/Jul/96 Lead dog
with April
kristian ?/Mar/96 Lead RP

First 8a

Mike Owen 02/Aug/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 30/Jul/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 19/May/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
stp ??/1994 Lead RP
Mike Owen 11/Aug/91 Lead RP
with Elaine Owen
Mick Lovatt ??/1990 -
127 users have this on their wishlist
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set