UKC

150m, 4 pitches. A quality mountain severe punctuated by a fierce crux pitch with some outrageous moves up a prominent high arête on the right side of the crag.
1) 55m (-) Start in the bay of Wild Country round the right of the blocky small wall, climb a corner crack to the large ledge on top. Make a long, pleasant traverse diagonally rightwards to a large forested ledge
2) 35m (-) Walk rightwards towards the back of the ledge to climb up leftwards before the trees on the prominent arête to a ledge. From here make a fun, blocky traverse left and up a juggy wall to the bay of the 5th pitch of Wild Country
3) 20m (5b) The main event. Make a pumpy rightwards hand traverse towards the arête until better holds lead upwards past a monster pocket to a ledge, avoiding loose rock to the right. From the ledge step right to the arête, arrange protection, bridge out across the yawning chasm below and make a wildly committing layback up the arête on reassuringly solid rock until the sanctuary of a ledge and belay is reached
4) 40m (4a) Climb the fine arête to the top

T. Hare and S. Collins 24/Nov/2019.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Route of Interest
The Marrakesh Express

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Tramline Slabs)

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