150m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A massive route that wends its way up the huge serrated arete on the left-hand side of the buttress. Route finding is complex and the climbing and situations remarkably varied. The rock on the whole is very good and, after the initial section of the first pitch, the amount of vegetation does not impose on the climbing.
1) 4c, 34m. Starting just left of the main corner, climb rock and vegetation to a bulge that guards access to a slab. Make a hard move up onto the slab and follow its left side to a belay ledge beneath a left-leaning corner/groove.
2) 4c, 26m. Climb to and up the corner/groove to where it steepens and then traverse right across the wall to a rib and climb this to a grassy ledge. Continue traversing rightwards to a belay in a quartz corner.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb leftwards across a slab to a ledge on the arete. Climb a short but steep groove on the other side of the arete and then head left and down to ledges under a corner-crack.
4) 4c, 18m. Climb the corner, taking care with the rock and traverse right to the arete. Continue to a belay below a flared chimney/groove.
5) 5a, 30m. Climb the excellent chimney groove and rib to its right before heading rightwards up vegetation to a large tree below bulging rock.
6) 4b, 20m. Pull steeply onto the wall above the right-hand end of the bulging rock and climb a short way on rock before grass and heather lead up to belays in boulders. © Rockfax

AJJ Moulam, RE Lambe 26/May/1956

Ticklists: North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, High Quality Adventure routes.


ClimberDateStyle
Marti999 08/Jul Lead O/S

3 star adventure. Would not want to do this if damp. Quite bold in places. There is a stuck nut on crux move which is now to rusty to trust. Needs knocking out with something.

with Debbie
dan-8990 21/May AltLd O/S
with TH
rachelpearce01 08/May 2nd O/S

Not particularly enjoyable climbing.... pretty overgrown and mossy. The rock had lots of moss growing on it and found it to not have much friction although my partner liked the rock. Perhaps seen its better days unless there is a big clean up of the crag. It is in an absolutely stunning location though, so a shame the routes have been lost. Sun only early morning !!!

George_Surf 08/May Lead O/S

Route description in the guide was pretty crap! p1 was overgrown but not too hard, p2 up the groove and then right on to the nose, you climb a bit higher and then make a big traverse right, half the time in bushes (not obvious) to the corner (good belay). pretty scrappy really. went way too low on p3 and had to add in an extra pitch to get back up the arete, (to drop back down left to the bay below the wall) and on route. p4 was fine, p5 was pretty hard in the steep groove but easier above. much cleaner now, i pulled a lot of heather off. rockfax topo would have helped! the climbing when its good is good but it wanders around a lot and the vegetation detracts

MarkRoe 28/Mar AltLd O/S

Done in 6 pitches. It rained for the last two. Classic loose and vegetated esoteric masochistic adventure climbing, deserving of it's stars. I led pitches 2, 4 & 5. 2 of the 6 belays are poor, and some pitches are bold.

with Ian Schofield
suds_01 28/Mar Lead dog
with Ian schofield, Mark Roe
RJLeish 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Stanners 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

A brilliant adventure on a spectacular crag. The vegetation is all part of the character. Distinctive cheeky crux pitch. Sliding down the grassy descent is almost as much fun as the climb.

with Robbie Leishman, Giles
dobby 200 28/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Good climbing but with terrible belays

matt.woodfield 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
bob johnson 31/Aug/13 -
with Rich Ball, Bram
hotfeet 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Some lovely sequences on this route - recommended

with David Elder
RCrockford 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1, 3, 5. Vegetated and dirty but bone dry. Every pitch had good climbing, one of the best mountain routes I've climbed.

with Jonah
Stewart Armstrong 24/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Mark Hale, John Proudfoot
Hidden 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Tim M 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

Big dirty rambling fun mountain route

with Emma
climbergg 27/May/12 AltLd
jkarran 01/May/11 Lead dnf

Bailed after two pitches. Team psyche was seriously depleted by the cold wind and relentless jungle bashing. Currently rather overgrown and dirty - maybe it improves above?

with Pete
petellis 01/May/11 2nd dnf

Being lost to the jungle

Skullfire 04/Oct/09 2nd O/S

A slippery start and finish, but the rest of the climb was dry with some vegetation. An excellent mix of slabs, cracks, chimney, walls, etc...

with Mat Mitchell, Trevor Jones
AdrianP ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Plenty of vegitation to skate on, climbing cant get much nastier but that's what you get when doing it too soon after rain. Not much protection...

with Olli
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Marq 13/Apr/04 AltLd O/S

DMDM..

with Daniel Dennehy
caradoc 07/Jun/03 AltLd
with john b
roncaves 08/Aug/98 AltLd
with Gavin Williams
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd O/S
alan moore ??/1995 -

Still the best mountain route I have ever climbed...

Rob Davies 01/Jul/94 AltLd
auld al ?/May/94 AltLd O/S

great route - though maybe it has got a bit dirtier over the years?

kennylind ??/1994 AltLd O/S

A grand outing.

Pete Nugent 30/Jun/92 AltLd
Mick King 28/Jun/92 AltLd

Lead p2 4 & 6

with Mark Lavender
AndrewP 30/Mar/91 Lead O/S
mikej 23/Jun/73 AltLd
with Stewart Grant
tapley 27/May/70 Lead
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