UKC

Restricted Access

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy. 

Rockfax Description
Climb direct from the raised ledge over the low bulge and then the mid-height overhang to finish up a short headwall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
To the right of Easch Way Nudger, the right-hand line through the half-height overlap, swimming right at the top BB.

Gary Gibson, Roy Thomas 15/Feb/1998.

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kissin' the Pink

Grade: 6c ***
(Oxwich Bay Quarry)

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