UKC

Restricted Access

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy. 

Rockfax Description
The groove at the left end of the terrace. This line used to start from the main footpath and climb over a tough roof to gain the terrace, but is now overgrown. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Starting from the path, below the left-hand end of the terrace, move easily up to the obvious roof at 6m. Move through this via a painful slot and continue up the easy wall to a prominent long v-groove. Negotiation of this often proves difficult. Pull out of the slot to good holds on the upper slab and finish direct to a BB.

Roy Thomas 1995.

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kissin' the Pink

Grade: 6c ***
(Oxwich Bay Quarry)

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