UKC

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Huckford Quarry is a designated nature reserve, with important plants and nesting birds (such as peregrines) on the main cliff. There is a small wall suitable for bouldering at the quarry entrance but do not climb on the walls in the back of the quarry. 1 route has been done here (Lost Worlds, e4 6b, O.Keynes) on a clean impressive arete at the back right of the quarry - very good but repeaters should take care not to disturb nesting peregrines.

 

Be respectful of the nature here. Keep group size small, noise down (NO STEREOS!!), dog on lead at all times, and clean chalk off when you leave.

6m. Highball wall just beyond boulder wall into quarry on right. Start in a groove on left of wall (or ss low using rh slanted rail, lh crimp sidepull & heel on block at base of groove) move up groove then negotiate two ramp features to move right into good holds and the top of Choking on a Colston bun. Can jump safely from the good holds having done the hard moves or make the final few reaches on positive holds to the top (getting back down is tricky).

O.Keynes May/2020.

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Guidebooks for Huckford Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Esoteric Bouldering In The Bristol Region Cover
Esoteric Bouldering In The Bristol Region (2021)
Great Western Rock
By Mark Davies
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Route of Interest
Castle Crimps

Grade: f6C ***
(Castle Park)

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