10m.
Rockfax Description
Poor route up the right-hand edge of the wall to a hard finish. Possible easier variation by traversing left then back right at the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start R of Racial Harmony. Climb the wall and arete to a junction with that route at a PR. Step L and up steeply to finish at jugs just above the BB.
Mark Pretty 21/Jul/2020.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Martin Haworth | 15 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: 6c+? | βeta? | |
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βeta: 6c+? |
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| kristian | 12 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: Not such a bad route. Going direct for the tatty belay seems like the best way. Perhaps if a new belay with good bolts were to be positioned closer to a finishing jug (covered with clods of grass), would make a better product. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not such a bad route. Going direct for the tatty belay seems like the best way. Perhaps if a new belay with good bolts were to be positioned closer to a finishing jug (covered with clods of grass), would make a better product. |
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| stp | 29 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: The line goes further left after the last bolt than you might think, pretty much into Black Power. Then it comes back right to reach the finishing jug is fine as is clipping the belay. This is considerably easier than trying to climb direct to the belay. Good rock and enjoyable once you forget about the RH arete. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The line goes further left after the last bolt than you might think, pretty much into Black Power. Then it comes back right to reach the finishing jug is fine as is clipping the belay. This is considerably easier than trying to climb direct to the belay. Good rock and enjoyable once you forget about the RH arete. |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 5 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Never 6b+ to climb past the belay. The next jug is quite a way above it. Closer to 6c+ if you do this but most people will just grab or clip the belay. Even that is harder than 6b+. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Never 6b+ to climb past the belay. The next jug is quite a way above it. Closer to 6c+ if you do this but most people will just grab or clip the belay. Even that is harder than 6b+. |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 5 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: This is the typical result of trying to squeeze a line next to an old trad line and making a vague attempt to not interfere with it. It fails on all counts. The route itself is terrible with an escapable early section followed by a few pulls to a break then a ridiculous finish where grabbing or clipping the lower-off is the crux. The better line taken by Racial Harmony is now doubly redundant. Far better to retro-bolt this forgotten friable trad route than to create a rubbish non-line which ruins what was a decent bit of climbing albeit utterly ignored due to the nature of the rock and gear. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is the typical result of trying to squeeze a line next to an old trad line and making a vague attempt to not interfere with it. It fails on all counts. The route itself is terrible with an escapable early section followed by a few pulls to a break then a ridiculous finish where grabbing or clipping the lower-off is the crux. The better line taken by Racial Harmony is now doubly redundant. Far better to retro-bolt this forgotten friable trad route than to create a rubbish non-line which ruins what was a decent bit of climbing albeit utterly ignored due to the nature of the rock and gear. |
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Route of Interest
Private Prosecution
Grade: 6c ***
(Horseshoe Quarry)