Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Scramble up a short blocky gully to below the pinnacle that rests against the cliff, belay here. Nip up the arete of the pinnacle to its top. Take the wall on the main crag directly to ledges and follow these leftwards to tree belays. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the pinnacle until you can stand on top of it and then join the main wall and climb the concretions above to the double tree belay. The route does have just enough gear to make it safe but you will need to hunt it out.
Please note at the time of writing the key foot holds from the pinnacle to the main wall were hidden by the ivy so do hunt them out. The tree belay did not have an abseil ring but it is possible to pull down the rope directly from the tree.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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The Angel's Girdle
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)