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The rock varies in character from typically quarried on the lower tier through to more abrasive rock on the upper tier where blasting has uncovered large tracts of calcite-encrusted rock which almost feels like natural limestone. As with most quarries, extra vigilance needs to be exercised by both climber and belayer here given the blasting activity which has created potential for loose rock.
Don't swim in the bright blue toxic pool (as if you needed telling)!
12m.
Climb the corner crack just left of "Whose is Casey?" to a ledge. Continue up the crack above, then either move right to a lower off, or face a steep top out (nut and cam belay tucked away down to right looking in). Note this climb follows the line incorrectly shown as "E for Friction" in both the BMC and Rockfax guides (whereas that route is actually immediately right of "Terror of The Towers").
Nick Taylor, Joe Alsop 25/Jun/2020.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| nickcanute | 30 Nov, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Crack left of Whose Is Casey? I cleaned and climbed this line which had incorrectly been shown as the line of another climb in current guidebooks (and in it's uncleaned state would have likely caused considerable distress if attempted). It is now well cleaned and low in the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Crack left of Whose Is Casey? I cleaned and climbed this line which had incorrectly been shown as the line of another climb in current guidebooks (and in it's uncleaned state would have likely caused considerable distress if attempted). It is now well cleaned and low in the grade. |
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Route of Interest
Great Buttress
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dovestone Tor)