UKC

Restricted Access

Nelwy developed sports climbing site. Warning - there is a known and active peregrine nest site very close to the the climbing area. Any disturbance to the birds or the nest site would be illegal as the birds have special legal protection under wildlife  legislation. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A well used and historical peregrine nesting site is located on the right hand side of the crag. This is a very well monitored site with well documented historical records of productivity and success rate. Climbing activity close to the nest has attracted a lot of negative comments from local residents and from various conservationists. 

Following a site visit it has been suggested that no climbing takes places from March 1st until July 31st on all routes and sectors to the right of (and including) the route "Nuns and Soldiers". 

In the meantime be aware that this is an actively monitored site, located on land owned by Natural Resources Wales and if you encounter sign of agitated and noisy birds (lots of screeching and flying around in circles) then in all likleyhood you are disturbing the nesting birds and need to leave. It's best to avoid the upper tier (far right) of the crag completely until the end of July.

Any disturbance of the nesting birds (even if unintentional) is a criminal offence and South Wales Police have issued warnings to climbers leaving the site. 

20m. Launch yourself to a jug that leads to a technical arete followed by a short slab into groove, then steeper overhanging ground to a small cave and beyond! Staple L.O

R.McAllister, A.Rosier 01/Aug/2020.

Feedback

User Date Notes
devo 17 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The best finish to this route is to clip a staple on the the lower belay then continue to the higher L.O that is shared with the left hand route. Adds an extra move and is a more obvious finishing point.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The best finish to this route is to clip a staple on the the lower belay then continue to the higher L.O that is shared with the left hand route. Adds an extra move and is a more obvious finishing point.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Space Mountain

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Route of Interest
Nosepicker

Grade: 7a ***
(Treherbert Quarrry (Rhondda Pillar))

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