UKC

12m. The split pillar with two small overlaps.
Probably the best route in the quarry... but unfortunately also one of the hardest. Leave the left end of the ledge and begin climbing the base of the pillar past a shot hole to a widening in the crack. Stuff something large in, try not to get stared down, and then quest upwards through the tough bouldery ground above to access a "thank god" hold, a lone bolt and then the sloping ledge. Take a breather, then finish directly with care.

Mark Roe Sep/2020.

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