Rockfax Description
A sustained and desperate affair and not to be confused with the wide weeping crack just to the right, which is Sweet Sorrow and even harder. Start by a flake/crack that leads up and left.
1) 5a, 28m. Trend up and left to near the top of the flake crack and make a move up to gain the left end of a heather-covered ledge. Move right to below a crack and climb up it using pockets and layaways to where the crack steepens. Make some tricky moves up this before pulling out onto the right arete for a short distance, and move back left into the crack. Follow this to a ledge on Slab Climb.
2) 8m. As for Slab Climb. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Pete_Frost 25 Aug Lead O/S Scarily damp and lichenous. Needs more traffic to bring it into perfect condition. It would be a nice route if it was cleaner.
with Nick Steen
Scarily damp and lichenous. Needs more traffic to bring it into perfect condition. It would be a nice route if it was cleaner.
with Nick Steen
foostu4 30 Jun 2nd O/S
Scraggadoo 28 Jun 2nd
Dave Parton 28 Jun Lead
Hidden 17 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Aug, 2018 2nd
PhilIpGBailey 5 Aug, 2018 2nd Thin but reasonable gear
Thin but reasonable gear
Andy Clarke 5 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Good climbing throughout, providing you start direct up the steep wall, rather than the ramp to the left. Quite technical and balancy through the crux, with some decent jams - no need for it to be "desperate" if you use your feet.
Good climbing throughout, providing you start direct up the steep wall, rather than the ramp to the left. Quite technical and balancy through the crux, with some decent jams - no need for it to be "desperate" if you use your feet.
Hidden 12 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
soph 6 May, 2018 2nd O/S
with Frances Taylor
with Frances Taylor
chriswood ??, 2018 -
eduardo 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Good line, quite a tough HVS imo.
with Lmt
Good line, quite a tough HVS imo.
with Lmt
superturbo 8 Oct, 2016 2nd
guy127917 8 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Craigyboy13 5 Jun, 2016 2nd
with Delyth
with Delyth
neal 30 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Done in 1 pitch with 60m ropes. Bit damp and green but nice.
with Chris S
Done in 1 pitch with 60m ropes. Bit damp and green but nice.
with Chris S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 30 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S The steep part of the crack is hard but well protected. Harder than Yob Route but not a good
with Chris Calow
The steep part of the crack is hard but well protected. Harder than Yob Route but not a good
with Chris Calow
Dan77 16 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Steve
with Steve
caradoc 1 May, 2015 Lead O/S A freezing easterly wind and the cold shadows beneath the cliff made the route a daunting prospect. In the end it went quite easily, one hard move through the bulge. Matt's hands froze when he seconded it.
with Matt H.
A freezing easterly wind and the cold shadows beneath the cliff made the route a daunting prospect. In the end it went quite easily, one hard move through the bulge. Matt's hands froze when he seconded it.
with Matt H.
Hidden 17 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
JamesWilliams 10 Jul, 2014 Lead G/U Ground up. got really pumped at the bulge before the top and came off. pulled the ropes and flew up it. its a lovely route good climbing just a little dirty.
Ground up. got really pumped at the bulge before the top and came off. pulled the ropes and flew up it. its a lovely route good climbing just a little dirty.
adamre12 10 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
wynaptomos 19 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
tmawer 15 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
BTphonehome 15 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
with tmawer
with tmawer
ksjs 17 May, 2014 Lead Short-lived but very nice. Not sure there's any 5b on this though?
with owen
Short-lived but very nice. Not sure there's any 5b on this though?
with owen
bigbobbyking 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S Good climb. Crack looked a bit dirty but didn't affect route.
with Chris Allan
Good climb. Crack looked a bit dirty but didn't affect route.
with Chris Allan
chrisallan 5 May, 2014 2nd β
steven_daniels99 22 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
Lenny 21 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with Phil .N
with Phil .N
Ralfy 21 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
with Lenny
with Lenny
Si ??, 2014 -
steve prior ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Andy C
with Andy C
climbingpixie 17 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Amy, maria85
with Amy, maria85
maria85 17 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with climbingpixie, Amy
with climbingpixie, Amy
roberts1234567890 15 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Rebecca Murray
with Rebecca Murray
Rob Evans ?Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
CragDog 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
michael burrows 10 Aug, 2012 Lead rpt
with ryan cassidy
with ryan cassidy
Mackinclimb 14 Jun, 2012 2nd
ardzeiem 2 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
with Matt H
with Matt H
Shaw Brown 27 May, 2012 2nd
with Neil Harvey
with Neil Harvey
GPN 27 May, 2012 Lead
with net
with net
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 2nd
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 28 Sep, 2011 AltLd β
sian88 28 Sep, 2011 AltLd RP
Lotte Stuer 18 Aug, 2011 2nd
with Josh
with Josh
Adam Booth 3 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
hawkins321 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
with dan, ash
with dan, ash
edmitchell 3 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 19 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Excellent, steep fingery climbing. Tough for 5a (N.Wales Rock, Ground Up 2006) In terms of difficulty, I found: Herfords CrackC<Diadem<Yob ie the opposite to Ground Up. Another excellent day.
with Matt Gordon
Excellent, steep fingery climbing. Tough for 5a (N.Wales Rock, Ground Up 2006) In terms of difficulty, I found: Herfords CrackC<Diadem<Yob ie the opposite to Ground Up. Another excellent day.
with Matt Gordon
Sardien 17 Apr, 2011 Lead rpt As always with hvs 5a, it turned out to be harder than it looked from below (i should know this by now!). Started of easy then hand slipped in wet bit of crack, lost my focus, got really pumped and came off coming over the bulge. Went back down, sophie had a go and then i climbed it clean second try. Fact it gets 5b here makes me feel slightly better about the whole thing :-)
with Sophie Ackermann
As always with hvs 5a, it turned out to be harder than it looked from below (i should know this by now!). Started of easy then hand slipped in wet bit of crack, lost my focus, got really pumped and came off coming over the bulge. Went back down, sophie had a go and then i climbed it clean second try. Fact it gets 5b here makes me feel slightly better about the whole thing :-)
with Sophie Ackermann
Andy_B39 15 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
with Sam Marland, Phil Wilkinson
with Sam Marland, Phil Wilkinson
Hidden 12 Apr, 2011 AltLd
sambosanquet101 12 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Liam FLeming 23 Jul, 2010 -
with barni
with barni
Hidden 5 Jul, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 30 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
catblack 25 Jun, 2010 2nd nothing special
nothing special
Andrew Barker 25 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Tricky in the middle but nothing special.
Tricky in the middle but nothing special.
Liam FLeming 23 Jun, 2010 Lead
with barni
with barni
Glyn 21 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
with Greg
with Greg
mynyddresident 20 Jun, 2010 2nd
with geraint
with geraint
Hidden 12 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 3 Jun, 2010 Lead
jgrigson 24 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
Sarahcrowsley 26 Apr, 2010 2nd
Hidden 11 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead O/S
chrisallan 15 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
theotherpetehill 15 Sep, 2009 2nd
mlmatt 13 Sep, 2009 Lead
with Chris Prescott
with Chris Prescott
decs 18 Aug, 2009 AltLd Lead on Sam's gear to the crux after he fluffed it.
with sgl
Lead on Sam's gear to the crux after he fluffed it.
with sgl
Ewan Russell 5 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with sam820
with sam820
sam820 5 Aug, 2009 2nd
Hidden 2 Aug, 2009 Lead
barni 1 Jun, 2009 Solo O/S
with Paul James
with Paul James
ritchierich 5 Apr, 2009 AltLd dog Very cold day fingers too numb to fill the rock so had to sit on rope to warm hands up :(
Very cold day fingers too numb to fill the rock so had to sit on rope to warm hands up :(
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Pete Wimbush ?Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with Chris Hindley
with Chris Hindley
porridgefan 7 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Gareth Borthwick
with Gareth Borthwick
Rob Davies 13 May, 2008 2nd
with Omer (BMC)
with Omer (BMC)
Hidden 12 May, 2008 AltLd
givemetea 4 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S We may have started left of the real route
with Ann Chong
We may have started left of the real route
with Ann Chong
Owain Llewelyn 11 Sep, 2007 Lead
with Dad/Phil
with Dad/Phil
shoulders 19 Jul, 2007 Lead
coffeepot 22 May, 2007 2nd
with jelaby
with jelaby
TonyP 17 Apr, 2007 AltLd
with Dylan
with Dylan
Rob Davies 14 Apr, 2007 Lead
with Phil A
with Phil A
Dan 85 3 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with Fiend
with Fiend
rayles 20 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
with Si
with Si
Hidden 8 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
Brian Wilderspin 17 May, 1998 -
with Dennis Wong, jim jones
with Dennis Wong, jim jones
The Reaper 27 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Aug, 1994 Lead
sdht ??, 1992 -
Ched ??, 1990 TR O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 1987 2nd
michael burrows 22 Jun, 1986 2nd
with steve ward
with steve ward
Allanfairfechan ??, 1986 Lead
with Mike McGill
with Mike McGill
Hidden ??, 1986 -
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 25
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set