The route climbs up two dièdres and is dominated by a two large slanting yellow overhangs. The second is the larger. Medium protection with some pegged stances. A set of nuts and Friends 2 1/2–3 are suggested. The first pitch is said to be off-putting.
Access: From the cable car station take the road to the hairpin bend then cross over to the cliff and go down along its base past the scree cone and a little past Peperina’s start to a few metres past a yellow, W-shaped overhang. There is a red mark (15 minutes).
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. V 45m. Climb up a small and white dièdre, then another dièdre to flakes and find a stance on a small ledge a little further on.
2. V+ 40m. Climb a grassy crack, which gradually widens, on the slab leading left to flakes and follow these to a tree and stance.
3. V+ 40m. Climb up the edge of a large flake to below a first yellow overhang. Enter and follow a dièdre/crack under the overhang (peg) rightwards to its end. Avoid a flake and climb a dièdre/chimney for 10–15 metres to a terrace on the left.
4. V+ 45m. Go up a slab on the edge of the chimney until underneath a large second overhang. A short ledge takes you to a wide crack which cuts the slab from left to right beneath the overhang. Follow the crack to a niche.
5. VI 45m. Continue climbing the crack/dièdre/chimney to large jammed blocks. Traverse rightwards, avoid a small pillar and climb a small difficult dièdre (2 pegs) that delimits it. Climb up flakes and a short easy chimney to trees and a stance.
6. III 25m. Climb a mix of slabs and vegetation to reach the N Ridge.
Descent: Descend the N Ridge to the top of Via Da Capo and abseil down it.
Access: From the cable car station take the road to the hairpin bend then cross over to the cliff and go down along its base past the scree cone and a little past Peperina’s start to a few metres past a yellow, W-shaped overhang. There is a red mark (15 minutes).
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. V 45m. Climb up a small and white dièdre, then another dièdre to flakes and find a stance on a small ledge a little further on.
2. V+ 40m. Climb a grassy crack, which gradually widens, on the slab leading left to flakes and follow these to a tree and stance.
3. V+ 40m. Climb up the edge of a large flake to below a first yellow overhang. Enter and follow a dièdre/crack under the overhang (peg) rightwards to its end. Avoid a flake and climb a dièdre/chimney for 10–15 metres to a terrace on the left.
4. V+ 45m. Go up a slab on the edge of the chimney until underneath a large second overhang. A short ledge takes you to a wide crack which cuts the slab from left to right beneath the overhang. Follow the crack to a niche.
5. VI 45m. Continue climbing the crack/dièdre/chimney to large jammed blocks. Traverse rightwards, avoid a small pillar and climb a small difficult dièdre (2 pegs) that delimits it. Climb up flakes and a short easy chimney to trees and a stance.
6. III 25m. Climb a mix of slabs and vegetation to reach the N Ridge.
Descent: Descend the N Ridge to the top of Via Da Capo and abseil down it.
Franco Giacomelli and Renata Rossi 15/Aug/1988.
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Route of Interest
Schildkrotte
Grade: 5c ***
(Piz Cacciabella)