12m.
The western face, the furthest point out on The Inner Head from St Mary's. The face contains 3 main deep bulging cracks. This climb uses any, or a combination of all 3.
Looks way easier than it is. Needs time to dry, much harder if at all wet or greasy.
Can be started on the smaller tidal ledges below at a similar grade.
From the main ledge take the curving right crack to gain the first horizontal break. This is the only resting point. Then choose your crack wisely and use plenty of chalk and friction. The holds are plentiful but they’re mostly bulging slopers that never quite seem to be good enough. Gear is great all the way, mostly large cams.
Looks way easier than it is. Needs time to dry, much harder if at all wet or greasy.
Can be started on the smaller tidal ledges below at a similar grade.
From the main ledge take the curving right crack to gain the first horizontal break. This is the only resting point. Then choose your crack wisely and use plenty of chalk and friction. The holds are plentiful but they’re mostly bulging slopers that never quite seem to be good enough. Gear is great all the way, mostly large cams.
James Cootes Sep/2020.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| wezswain | 27 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is actually two seperate climbs that has been combined. These were climbed in 1999. These original climbs are called Copper E1 5b - the left hand crack and Mat's mega project E2 5c - The right hand crack | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is actually two seperate climbs that has been combined. These were climbed in 1999. These original climbs are called Copper E1 5b - the left hand crack and Mat's mega project E2 5c - The right hand crack |
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