4 pitches.
Ascend West Gully of the Douglas Boulder for 15m. On the right wall and directly opposite the start of SW Ridge is a left-facing corner ramp. The first two pitches can be linked with careful rope management
(1) 15m. Climb the corner direct, strenuous but well protected and belay below a broken chimney – superb
(2) 15m. Climb the constricted chimney and steep upper corner to a large spike belay
(3) 45m. Ascend a shallow cracked wall on the left then continue over snow slopes on a rising rightward traverse aiming for a steep ice runnel. Climb the thin ice runnel for 6m and belay on the left before a short chimney
(4) 20m. The chimney and snow grooves on the left lead to Tower Ridge
(1) 15m. Climb the corner direct, strenuous but well protected and belay below a broken chimney – superb
(2) 15m. Climb the constricted chimney and steep upper corner to a large spike belay
(3) 45m. Ascend a shallow cracked wall on the left then continue over snow slopes on a rising rightward traverse aiming for a steep ice runnel. Climb the thin ice runnel for 6m and belay on the left before a short chimney
(4) 20m. The chimney and snow grooves on the left lead to Tower Ridge
Steve Holmes & Duncan Curry 17/Feb/2015.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Caspar McKeever | 17 Jan, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing on the 1st/2nd pitch but really needs the turf and blocks to be well frozen otherwise it'll get destroyed. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Great climbing on the 1st/2nd pitch but really needs the turf and blocks to be well frozen otherwise it'll get destroyed. |
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Route of Interest
Crest Route
Grade: V 7 ***
(Bidean nam Bian - Stob Coire nan Lochan)