Restricted Access
There was a large rockfall in May 2006, routes around Titan Groove and Tower of Bable have been effected. The area may still contain loose rock - caution is strongly advised.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to the Central Quarry and Waterfall Area of Dovestones Quarry during the above dates (the lower left and lower right quarries are fine to access year round however).
45m, 2 pitches.
Loosely follows the pitch 2 line of Feb (VS) just right of Waterfall Climb, with 3 well protected hard sections. Descriptions and drawings of the central ‘quarry’ are in the old Moorland Grit guide and on the BMC website.
1. 10m.There are various ways up to The Terrace; the obvious pitch 1 corner of Waterfall Climb being the least unattractive.
2. 35m. Climb the left of 2 undercut grooves, with a big heave-ho to reach an obvious foothold on the right. (may be harder now a crucial hook has deteriorated). Easier climbing to a tricky step up right and around the arête to a bulge split by a clean finger width crack. Surmount this with a burly move utilising a crucial mono point edge, to reach the leaning flake on Feb. Follow the crack up and right to gain an easy angled slab. Follow your nose up the finish of Waterfall Climb.
Descent. Head up and right across the top of the ‘quarry’ and descend to a vague path dropping steeply through the right hand edge of the central sector to a fence line and path.
1. 10m.There are various ways up to The Terrace; the obvious pitch 1 corner of Waterfall Climb being the least unattractive.
2. 35m. Climb the left of 2 undercut grooves, with a big heave-ho to reach an obvious foothold on the right. (may be harder now a crucial hook has deteriorated). Easier climbing to a tricky step up right and around the arête to a bulge split by a clean finger width crack. Surmount this with a burly move utilising a crucial mono point edge, to reach the leaning flake on Feb. Follow the crack up and right to gain an easy angled slab. Follow your nose up the finish of Waterfall Climb.
Descent. Head up and right across the top of the ‘quarry’ and descend to a vague path dropping steeply through the right hand edge of the central sector to a fence line and path.
Andy Stewart and Dave Palmer 23/Jan/2021.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andy Stewart2 | 23 Jan, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Previously Climbed the top section of the route after traversing in from the right through thick vegetation and rotten rock. It needed a quality direct start, which it now has. Wires cams and hexes provide good protection. A good short freeze after wet conditions should enable this climb to be in nick. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Previously Climbed the top section of the route after traversing in from the right through thick vegetation and rotten rock. It needed a quality direct start, which it now has. Wires cams and hexes provide good protection. A good short freeze after wet conditions should enable this climb to be in nick. |
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