UKC Logbook - 'The Magic Roundabout'

The small block to the left of Little Tiger Wall (see photo). SDS, traverse left to right, no hands on top. Bring your crimping fingers. The grade might be harder for the tall?

Helen Burns (FKA) 23/Jan/2021.

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User	Date		Notes
hlburns	2 Mar, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Ah tall people miss all the fun! The crux was most definitely moving off those upper crimps to the next set of crimps to the right, but that was the part I wondered how plausible those moves would be for bloke sized humans! I suspect I have my answer!
Show beta βeta: Ah tall people miss all the fun! The crux was most definitely moving off those upper crimps to the next set of crimps to the right, but that was the part I wondered how plausible those moves would be for bloke sized humans! I suspect I have my answer!
PeteH	2 Mar, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Hard work trying to make this satisfying for the tall. Easiest method (6Aish) is SDS using the RH pocket as per Andy Peet and then crossing through to the crimps further right. Anything starting matched on the first hold or using the upper left set of crimps makes it very difficult to keep your knees off the ground.
Show beta βeta: Hard work trying to make this satisfying for the tall. Easiest method (6Aish) is SDS using the RH pocket as per Andy Peet and then crossing through to the crimps further right. Anything starting matched on the first hold or using the upper left set of crimps makes it very difficult to keep your knees off the ground.
Andy Peet	28 Feb, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Not sure I did it as intended. Sit start matched on the low jug then out right to a low pocket before going up to the upper crimps. As an average height male this felt maybe around 6B (not certain though). I tried it with the higher crimps above the low sds jug and it felt too hard for me as I was very scrunched up.
Show beta βeta: Not sure I did it as intended. Sit start matched on the low jug then out right to a low pocket before going up to the upper crimps. As an average height male this felt maybe around 6B (not certain though). I tried it with the higher crimps above the low sds jug and it felt too hard for me as I was very scrunched up.
hlburns	29 Jan, 2021	Show βeta βeta: No idea what to grade this as I'm extremely short with small fingers so this is possibly harder for normal sized humans, or not, we shall see!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: No idea what to grade this as I'm extremely short with small fingers so this is possibly harder for normal sized humans, or not, we shall see!