Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
slab direct on the dark/light seepage line. At English trad 6a (maybe easier or harder/lockdown grade). Start 1m left of an obvious spiky concretion ( on or just left of little plums?). Climb the fine slab above.
Delicate balanced climbing on crusty holds at first leads to a committing long reach above half height. This harder sequence above halfway being the crux and getting up to the big ledge. Finish as per Nice and Dry, The Charlatan, little Plums though the route is essentially a Boulder problem to the ledge at 6/7m. No bouldering way off. Needs abseil rope from upper lift to escape.
Paul Tucker 31/Mar/2021.
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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry
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Zulu
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Wynd Cliff)