UKC

60m, 2 pitches. Picth 1 (4b) (25m) Start at the cleaned buttress uphill from the start of Race the Darkness. Easily gain a ledge on the right and move up the face to make a technical move using a sidepull flake to gain good holds and then a series of small ledges. Eventually a break delivers good cams, step left and make a final delicate move over a buldge to reach the top of the buttress. Stepping stone your way to a belay below a large flake.

Pitch 2 (4b) - Climb up and into the small cave/chimney and emerge on the large grass ledge. (Alternatively, climb the outside of the wide crack at 5a/b to gain amazing jugs high in the right hand wall - #6 camalot helpful) Step across the gap and climb the well positioned final wall last an ancient peg. Abseil Station in place on the smaller grass ledge at the base of Blowing in the Wind. Finish up or abseil back down the gully...which makes a great link up to the start of White Walls.

K. Kilroy, C. Clayton, S. Clayton 11/Apr/2021.

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KKilroy 15 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Route grade needs updating to HS 4b.
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βeta: Route grade needs updating to HS 4b.

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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Pigeon Rock)

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