UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

43m. Green sunglasses

Start in the middle of Smile and Moonshot.
You’ll begin the climb on a slight ledge broken away from the main face.
Begin to climb the slight undercuts to reach the giant slab. A few gentle toe touches and finger crimps are in order, to gain better height for the first bit of gear.
Once protection is placed continue straight up the giant slab, precariously making bold moves to reach a faint line crack. Follow the faint crack line to the top as holds become positive and frequent.

Expect to have a long run out as gear is minimal on this line.

Slawek Noga & Joshua Stewart 12.06.2021

Slawomir Noga & Joshua Stewart 12/Jun/2021.

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Route of Interest
The Devil's Slide

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Lundy)

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