Rockfax Description
Stunning rock but very serious climbing that is reliant on the ageing pegs. Start on a huge boulder left of the big corner on the right-hand side of the Great Wall.
1) 6a, 40m. Pull onto the easy-angled wall and head for a protruding peg. Traverse left below this, thin tape on low spike, to and up a shallow rising rampline to a point beneath twin pegs. Make thin, bold moves up to the pegs and continue up the fingery wall above them for 5m to better holds and some wires. Move on up the still steep wall to another peg. Climb an easier shallow groove to a good jug, and move right to a corner and climb it to a stance on ledges.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb leftwards to meet the top pitch of Black Magic and finish up this. © Rockfax


West Country Climbs


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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ferdia 5 Sep Lead O/S steady E5. 3 new pegs.
steady E5. 3 new pegs.
Hidden ?Jul, 2016 2nd dog
Hidden 15 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
frank ramsay 13 May, 1992 Lead
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c