UKC

100m, 6 pitches. A worthwhile climb which would benefit from far more traffic.

It takes the flat rib which is clearly delineated on its right by a grassy corner gully running down into the large grassy bay. The slabs of this rib are on a higher plane then the main quartz slab. The start is at a cairn 20m left of a steep crack.
1.) 17m, two short slabs trending left to a large ledge. Belay on the right or a large flake higher on the left.
2.) 8m, from the flake move up, step left and then return to a stance directly above.
3.) 20m, go straight up the slab above, delicate, to a large flake belay overlooking the corner gully.
4.) 20m, (Y Drafel - the slate trimming blade) the sharp edge of the pinnacle leads in 10m to a big ledge with a block belay.

Scramble off here or...

5.) 20m, the 5m wall above can be climbed by the crack or avoided by scrambling a little right
6.) 16m, the pleasant quartzy slab above leads to the top of the crag.

DH Jones, G Williams 02/Jun/1953.

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Route of Interest
Digitalis Direct/Pinnacle Ridge Route

Grade: VD ***
(Craig Braich Ty Du (Pen yr Ole Wen))

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