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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| danjasaur | 9 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: Feels like a soft 7a or hard 6c+, I climb a lot of them, and the grade is just below my limit. I can see how those climbing harder would see this as much softer... If you are short (I am not even that short, like 170), crux is more in the middle than the top. Looks possible to ground fall at bolt 3 if you mess up, otherwise ok bolted, but I was glad to have a long 4th QD also. Some slightly loose rocks/pebbles around the 4th bolt. If you are tall, the middle would flow better and you wouldn't cut loose like me and have to fight (made it almost fit the grade there!). Top is not a crux when you know it. This cave can get cold and your hands can get cold, giving more pump if there is wind and some rain. Top is possible from the left but others I climbed with did it from the right, different betas possible Any bit of messing up and it will be full-on and a real fight, with the jugs turning into slippery blocks (ok it was raining) and sharp edges. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Feels like a soft 7a or hard 6c+, I climb a lot of them, and the grade is just below my limit. I can see how those climbing harder would see this as much softer... If you are short (I am not even that short, like 170), crux is more in the middle than the top. Looks possible to ground fall at bolt 3 if you mess up, otherwise ok bolted, but I was glad to have a long 4th QD also. Some slightly loose rocks/pebbles around the 4th bolt. If you are tall, the middle would flow better and you wouldn't cut loose like me and have to fight (made it almost fit the grade there!). Top is not a crux when you know it. This cave can get cold and your hands can get cold, giving more pump if there is wind and some rain. Top is possible from the left but others I climbed with did it from the right, different betas possible Any bit of messing up and it will be full-on and a real fight, with the jugs turning into slippery blocks (ok it was raining) and sharp edges. |
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Route of Interest
Cancion Trieste de Pepe et Muerto
Grade: 7a ***
(El Torcal de Antequera)