UKC

Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

Rockfax Description
Link the start of Little Queenie into the top groove of Cocaine. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up Wild Rover slab, pass peg until ledge. Follow the ledge to the corner crack of Cocaine. Follow the Line of Cocaine to top out.

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Logged Ascents

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
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Votes cast 5
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
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Route of Interest
Emulator

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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