Rockfax Description
Often wet but good when dry. Start right of the chimney. Climb up and left then continue more direct, past a hard section, to easier moves. At about 20m, trend across right to a ledge. Follow holds and a crack up the steeper upper wall eventually moving left to a tree. Belay further back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Decent soft touch on the far L of the crag, following a clean black wall between the severe chimney and the drainage streak. The start is a little bold.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

LDudill 10/May/17 Lead O/S

Think I went too far right on bottom half, just followed the Chalk and gear, then traversed back left and right across ledge up upper crack, very easy and I suspect more gear going right at bottom. Seemed to climb okay anyway!

with Alex z
alexjz 10/May/17 2nd O/S
with Luke Dudill
fizzychewitt 09/May/17 Lead O/S
with Jayne
Hidden 07/May/17 Lead
Hidden 22/Apr/17 2nd
Rory Shaw 22/Apr/17 -
with Jo Boyd
DaveThexton 05/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Jenn_Stretton 05/Oct/16 2nd O/S
SAF 04/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Phil
Hidden 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S
josefft 04/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Simon Geisseler, Hannah
hfotheri 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with josefft
Hidden 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S
jalqazzaz 17/May/16 2nd O/S
Harry Ellis 17/May/16 Lead
tmawer 02/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Bram
BTphonehome 02/Oct/15 2nd
with Tony
robpartridge 10/Sep/15 2nd
with Esther Bott
soph 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tony Stone
Hidden 22/Apr/15 Lead
guy757 21/Apr/15 -
wi11 21/Apr/15 Solo rpt
with Mike Goldthorp, Sabby
Lucylou19 11/Sep/14 2nd
Tim M 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 27/Jul/14 2nd
JamesWilliams 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Felt a little bit eliminate at the start next to the chimney but nice climbing over all

adamre12 26/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Quirky and interesting on good rock.

davebrox 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Fiona
richardr 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S

A good lead by Rich!

with rich
Mowglee 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Didn't really enjoy the bold bit.

with Ali
Hidden 13/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Rob Gillespie ??/2014 Lead O/S
Si ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 27/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
shed_hed 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 24/Jul/13 2nd O/S
SGD 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Really good. Found it a bit reachy especially the crux but never desperate and it eases off right after the crux (2 low wires). Good positive hols in the upper crack - there is also a jammed wire.

UncleMephisto 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Brian Seery, Will Hardy
wi11 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Bold but easy climbing

with Rafe
dan gibson 17/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Westy 16/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Lenny 09/Jun/13 Lead β
with Phil .N
Dan724 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Found this very easy for E1, have done harder VS's plus the gear is there where you need it. Really good moves and a cracking route up a natural line.

JamesLloyd 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S

its a shame this crag is always wet!

Owain Llewelyn 06/Jun/13 2nd
with Brad
steveboote ?/Jun/12 Lead
with Vic Belshaw
Ollie B 30/May/12 Lead O/S

Bit run out at the start

with C.Clifford
Ewan Russell 28/May/12 2nd O/S
with Connor
Hidden 28/May/12 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 27/May/12 Lead O/S

This route is very good. Well worth doing when it's dry. You will need some small cams to protect the crux, I used a green and blue Alien in the bottom wall. Don't think friends would fit. It's not too hard but you are way above the gear on the crux. Lovely rock..... Just do it...

with Anita Grey
Falko 28/Mar/12 Lead β

Great climbing. I had beta by virtue of the fact that I abseiled down the route with a brush 'borrowed' fron Ynys Ettws (in order to sweep off the perceived detritus on the wall). One hardish move at approx 8m. Curious but effective (though untested) pro below that crux. Abbed off 'in situ' slings and maillon at the tree. The route is 28m not 48m as described in some guidebooks.

with Steve M
Hidden ??/2012 -
chriscarroll 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Only E1 as the start is bold... It has odd gear with nice 5a face climbing

Hidden 04/May/11 -
Katy Nelson 29/Apr/11 2nd
with steven Parry
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
SMc 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Anne
Renegade_Pony 22/Jun/10 2nd dog

Wandered off course, didnt do it properly

with barni
barni 22/Jun/10 Lead rpt
mr mills 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with edwin
Liam Ingram 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Tabea Fiechter
Hidden 16/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Pippa 06/Jun/10 Lead
with Jon
Lenny 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with James. D
feilx 28/May/10 Lead O/S
HIGHTOWER 26/May/10 2nd
with Dave Gleave
mynyddresident 25/May/10 Lead
with wolf, geraint
wolf.leeb 25/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/May/10 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 22/May/10 Lead O/S

Nice, tricky moves but not hard only E1 because the gear is a tad weird...low in the grade

Hidden 21/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/May/10 2nd β
Alex Mason 21/May/10 Lead O/S

Really goood wall climbing.

with Laura Perry
gaz.marshall 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Steev
keith leonard ??/2010 Lead
pete johnson 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Lun
barni 14/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 31/May/08 2nd O/S
Sgt. Vest 31/May/08 Lead O/S
John Dale 31/May/08 Lead
with Erik Schaberg
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Owen W-G 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Surprised that this doesn't appear in any other logs - it seemed popular the day we were there. A good route, if a bit more HVS than E1.

with Robin
zero six ??/2007 Lead O/S
Andy Clarke 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Rob
Rachael Barlow ??/2006 2nd
with Pete Robins
Rachael Barlow 15/May/05 2nd
with Pete Robins
Martin Bennett 13/Sep/96 -
with MT
Hidden 15/Aug/96 2nd
Hidden 21/May/94 2nd
Hidden 06/May/93 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul/90 2nd
Hidden ??/1990 -
Melok ??/1983 AltLd
Melok ??/1983 AltLd
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 29
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set