Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A good intimidating outing. Start at a rightward-slanting flake-crack in the wall right of Finale Groove. High in the grade.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the juggy crack and its continuation to the faultline. Traverse right to a ledge and belay next to a boulder.
2) 5a, 20m. The second pitch of Sweet SA. © Rockfax
FA. D.Boone, M.Talbot, D.Hablum, P.Grainger 10/Apr/1966.
Ticklists
WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Dorset Routes that are worth doing
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Freda
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)