Rockfax Description
A good outing that takes in some intimidating territory. Start at a rightward slanting flake-crack in the wall right of Finale Groove. High in the grade.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the juggy crack and its continuation to the fault-line. Traverse right to a ledge and belay next to a boulder.
2) 5a, 20m. The second pitch of Sweet SA. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start below the rightward-leading flake right of Finale groove.Flack and crack to belay on in faultline on right, (4b) Gray wall above past a peg finish up groove.(5a)

D Boone, M Talbot,D Hablum, PGrainger 10/Apr/1966

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20.

Flavio 13/Oct/17 2nd O/S
JendeHoxar 13/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Flavio
Hidden 15/Jul/17 AltLd
Guy Arnold 15/Jul/17 AltLd
catrin289 14/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Martin
andycash 15/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with Rob Butcher
dave o 22/Oct/16 AltLd
with Mark Littlewood
EeFu 09/Oct/16 Lead dog

Rest on P2, half way up the groove

Kirill 09/Oct/16 2nd
with EeFu
cem 09/Oct/16 AltLd rpt

Led p1.

mariannekhoo 08/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

rd20 08/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

RD P1. Had previously led P2 as Sweet SA

Hidden 18/Jul/16 2nd
Geoffers 09/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Tim
mikehenesy 28/Jun/16 Lead O/S

HS in the old cc guide and the first pitch is. Second is a little sketchy however, hence the 28 pieces of shabby pro - kept matt occupied. Didn't recognise it as the same as Sweet SA?

with matt smith
ms26g10 26/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Good intro to Boulder Ruckle VS climbs, first pitch was fine, top of second pitch was doable but pumpy!

mark4344 13/May/16 2nd
with cheeky
cheeky 13/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 31/Oct/15 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

Julian Prieto 31/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2

Pero 20/Sep/15 AltLd
cem 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led p2.

Bob M 21/Jun/15 AltLd

Led pitch 2. First visit to the Ruckle this year, and it showed. Crux seemed harder than I remembered...

Hidden 21/Jun/15 AltLd rpt
Norman_P_W 21/Jun/15 AltLd
with Bob M
jungle 14/Jun/15 Lead dog
MontyH 23/May/15 AltLd
with Brian and Paul
tobydunford 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
tcn_2002 12/Apr/15 Lead
Dave Mahon 25/Oct/14 AltLd

Led P2 which is a lovely pitch.

with Justin Sharpe
Bob M 21/Sep/14 AltLd
with Stewart Walker
john1 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with nick
csd23 03/Aug/14 2nd
with Tim Miller
mattprince 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch VS 4b

joedoherty 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/May/14 Lead rpt
CurlyStevo 15/Mar/14 AltLd

nice route, would like to lead pitch 2, not too bold.

with Mick Ward
Hidden 09/Dec/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead rpt
mike.moss 17/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Kirill 17/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

matt.jj 04/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

An awesome route - truly enjoyable at every stage. Tough if VS is your limit, but a fun route if not.

Dave Mahon 04/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Enjoyable, great climbing on both pitches. More pleasant than the Heidelberg Creature

Luxulyan 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Beware the nesting seagulls!

with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Richard
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead
Graham Westbrook 16/May/13 AltLd
Lawrence Dudley 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 20/Apr/13 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

Monkey_Alan 16/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Anne-Marie Shepherd
w-watson 01/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

P1. Doh. We climbed the crack between finale groove and b line and moved right at the roof. Harder than vs.

clipskipper 26/May/12 AltLd
with Ed Babs
AlexD 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
The Biochemist 01/May/12 Lead O/S

Lead First pitch

pigeonslipper 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

first pitch

metal arms 07/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

2nd Pitch

Joemanglerocks 01/Apr/12 AltLd

Lead P1

TimKnight 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2... peg, what peg?! Traversed left from the belay but apparently not far enough before moving back right, delicate and sparse moves on a face led to a great corner.

pezzerrr 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
climbtim 08/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

A good route definitely worth a visit. The top pitch is a change from the jugs at the bottom. beware the large loose boulder on the belay ledge and a couple of loose blocks half way up the second pitch. A typical Ruckle experience

Hidden 08/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
ben.richards 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

This is a great route, can't believe its not in the Rockfax Dorset guide. Definitely worth a visit!

LJC 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

jezb1 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Ld p2. P1 straight forward and enjoyable on big holds,awesome top pitch though. Not a massive amount of gear on P2, but solid placements when needed. Top pitch nice and delicate above the peg.

RobRock84 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Steve Quinton, Robin neath
brian watson 10/Jul/10 2nd
MontyH 10/Jul/10 2nd
with Brian
Ybot Htulk ?/Jul/10 AltLd

First pitch only. Parner finished up second pitch of sweet SA

with Jez
Hidden 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 20/Jun/10 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

eroica64 22/May/10 TR

Rested on rope. First pitch is a glorious doddle to a hospitable belay ledge. The upper pitch is terrific, getting thinner and thinner with worrying runners in apparently fixed flaky cracks on the right in it's lower section. Finished up right of groove up slight aerate.

with Rehan
Bob M 22/May/10 AltLd

Two excellent pitches. I led top pitch - very good value for VS! The first pitch of B Line looked much more pleasant than the alternative start up Sweet SA.

with Stewart Walker
Monkey_Alan 06/Mar/10 AltLd rpt

Led 2nd pitch.

uncontrollable 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1, climbed in big boots and belay parka as the promised sunshine hadn't materialized and I was freezing

with Alan B
Monkey_Alan 09/Aug/09 2nd
with John Wilds, Emma Horsey, Max Streeton
Max Streeton 09/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
MontyH 12/Sep/07 Lead rpt

lead both pitches, good route contrasting pitches.

with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
MontyH 29/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

led the bottom pitch, nice route with clean rock.

with Brian
brian watson ??/2006 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove ?/Mar/92 AltLd
with Pete Finklaire, David
Nigel Coe ??/1980 -

Approx date

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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 19
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set