This North Coast classic spectacularly emerges from a damp zawn to gain a well positioned slab finish. Take an extra rope to arrange a final belay off the fence before starting.
1. Damp groove on big holds to sloping ledge belay.
2. Place high gear in the roof, down climb to the belay and set off diagonally right until you can traverse left into the niche above the roof. Move up left until huge jugs give access to the belay ledge on the right.
3. Climb the slab rightwards until you can access the top slab and climb diagonally left up the final slab to your belay rope (old peg can be backed up).
1. Damp groove on big holds to sloping ledge belay.
2. Place high gear in the roof, down climb to the belay and set off diagonally right until you can traverse left into the niche above the roof. Move up left until huge jugs give access to the belay ledge on the right.
3. Climb the slab rightwards until you can access the top slab and climb diagonally left up the final slab to your belay rope (old peg can be backed up).
Ticklists
Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Macca_7 | 24 Mar, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The guidebook and description above are a bit confusing. We thought the obvious line followed the deep, damp thrutchy groove to an easing around the bulge. From here continue in the same line on good holds until an exciting move over the void gets you onto the belay ledge. We presumed this was the 2nd belay mentioned in the guide and above. The top pitch is then as described for the 3rd pitch and is in a wonderful position! A really very good route with two highly contrasting pitches, one thrutchy and hard work the second delicate and out there. As recommended, low tide is fairly useful! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The guidebook and description above are a bit confusing. We thought the obvious line followed the deep, damp thrutchy groove to an easing around the bulge. From here continue in the same line on good holds until an exciting move over the void gets you onto the belay ledge. We presumed this was the 2nd belay mentioned in the guide and above. The top pitch is then as described for the 3rd pitch and is in a wonderful position! A really very good route with two highly contrasting pitches, one thrutchy and hard work the second delicate and out there. As recommended, low tide is fairly useful! |
||||
Logged Ascents
7 users have logged this
4 users have this on their wishlistPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Madonna of the Waves
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Vessacks West)