UKC Logbook - 'The Darwin Award'

Access Banned

The landowners have have recently become aware of climbing at this site (due to publicity on various websites) and have informed the BMC that although this section of the quarry has not been active for many years, this section is still within the boundaries of a working quarry and public access (other than on the public footpaths that cross the site) is not allowed due to liability and health & safety concerns. It's rare that quarry operatives or security will be aware of climbers here but if climbers are seen they will be politely asked to leave.

Contains a number of newly equipped sports routes as well as some historical routes dating back to the 1950s

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Drive up Mount Road to a junction by the top most houses in Llanfairfechan. Follow the higher road from the junction until a footpath on the L leads up to a quarry road and then a waymarked traversing path (Wales Coast Path). Follow the path L along the top of a wall until it starts to descend through a gate. Then follow a path rising gently L ward up the hill to the Top Level. The Pinnacle and an old winding house are prominent on the outer edge of the level (on your L on arrival). The Middle and Bottom Levels are reached by descending an incline from the winding house.

Last update: 13/02/2023

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30m. Start 2m right of Gone Tomorrow. Climb the right side of the slab to the base of the wall and layback and jam the surprisingly technical crack to jugs on the left, below the overhang. Continue onto the easier slab and up to the groove. Teeter up the right arete and make difficult moves to stand in the niche at its top.. Go through the overlap and left to a ledge. Finish up the fine slab, climbing just to the right of the bolts.

Nick Buckley Steven Lamb 07/May/2022.