Restricted Access
Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways.
Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.
This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols, see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case. Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds
Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these birds at at time.
A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".
Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes.
The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended.
Rockfax Description
Squeezed in between Jack of Shadows and Big Wall Party, up the front face of the pillar.
1) 6b, 25m. Make a steep pull up onto the overhanging face of the pillar and move up to the first bolt on the left. Head up left on undercuts, past the second bolt, to reach a chimney. Climb this and exit left onto a ledge. Move right past the third bolt and ascend a groove, exiting right onto Big Wall Party at the jugs. Leave Big Wall Party and move back left under the overhang using a finger jug on the lip, small cam on the left. Make your way up the left side of a slim groove - all rather awkward - to the belay.
2) 6b, 18m. From the right end of the ledge, move onto the face cautiously and make a reach for the distant ledge above, this is the Big Wall Party belay. Strenuous climbing leads up the steep overhanging corner-crack above the ledge to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
There are no ascents logged for this climb.
Guidebooks for Rainbow Slab Area
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
The Bridge Across Forever
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Gideon Quarries [Glyn Rhonwy])