Restricted Access
While located on private land, the landowner is welcoming to climbers as long as its small numbers using the venue, dogs strictly under control and on a leash at all times and no litter or damage caused to boundaries. Please ask permission from the farmer at Coed Mawr Farm especially during lambing season.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction for nesting Ravens and Kestrels apply to the whole of the left hand (Cheshire Cat) buttress only.
38m.
1. 38m Follow Igam Ogam pitch 1 to the belay, clip the peg, place some gear, then carry on...
Climb the orange wall moving left to a situ thread, place a good wire to back the thread up. Continue up and left, over the overhang above the chimney, to a good ledge. Then continue left to a slabby, juggy wall in a tremendous position. New belay / abseil on a large boulder above this finish.
This would be even better, and only slightly harder, if started up the crack of Enterprise Allowance as far as the break, then continue left and carry on. 45 metres and top end E1 5b. The crack of Enterprise Allowance to the break is 4c / 5a, and is very good. Above the break it gets dirty and hard!
Climb the orange wall moving left to a situ thread, place a good wire to back the thread up. Continue up and left, over the overhang above the chimney, to a good ledge. Then continue left to a slabby, juggy wall in a tremendous position. New belay / abseil on a large boulder above this finish.
This would be even better, and only slightly harder, if started up the crack of Enterprise Allowance as far as the break, then continue left and carry on. 45 metres and top end E1 5b. The crack of Enterprise Allowance to the break is 4c / 5a, and is very good. Above the break it gets dirty and hard!
Andy Taylor and Sam Hawkins 20/Jun/2022.
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Route of Interest
The Groove
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Llech Ddu (Black Slab))