Rockfax Description
A tricky pitch that is bolder since the micro wire placements have blown out. It can be split at the flakes/ledges at half-height. Start by some ledges just before the scree, below a vague rib. Ascend the rib to a shattered crack, get in as much gear as possible because there isn't much more! Carry on up the shattered crack until the climbing gets hard and a foothold can be seen out left. Make a very committing move left onto the foothold, after which good holds lead to the broken ledges. Take the right-hand line of two bolts, passing the second via a tricky move out of the letter-box - crux. Above, easier but bold climbing leads up and right to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Funny names..., a State of Slate, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Bold Slate routes, slate E5's, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Luke Brooks 28 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Some misleading info about for this route, such as 'the micro wire placements have blown out', which made me put it off for years. It seems unlikely that anything has changed, either way its still E5.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some misleading info about for this route, such as 'the micro wire placements have blown out', which made me put it off for years. It seems unlikely that anything has changed, either way its still E5.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Luke Brooks 28 Apr Lead β Had a quick look at the gear on ab.
Had a quick look at the gear on ab.
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Jemima Churchhouse ?Jun, 2016 TR O/S Am I brave enough to lead this??? Idk
with GwilymR
Am I brave enough to lead this??? Idk
with GwilymR
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Ed morris 7 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S Been worrying about trying this for years, sky hooks calmed me down but not by much. The best E5 on the slab!
with Dickon
Been worrying about trying this for years, sky hooks calmed me down but not by much. The best E5 on the slab!
with Dickon
anguskille 6 Oct, 2013 Lead dog 2nd pitch only, linked from the Rainbow. Couldn't crack the move past the second bolt but sent the rest of the run-out
2nd pitch only, linked from the Rainbow. Couldn't crack the move past the second bolt but sent the rest of the run-out
Georgia H ?May, 2013 TR mess around on the half rope ab
mess around on the half rope ab
Tom Briggs 5 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Andy Benson
with Andy Benson
Adam Long 13 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S Ignore the E6 scare note in the new guide - gear didn't look to have changed, still E5.
with Pete Robins
Ignore the E6 scare note in the new guide - gear didn't look to have changed, still E5.
with Pete Robins
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 Lead
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
TomPR ?Jun, 2009 Lead
IOAN D 19 May, 2008 Lead O/S thin!
with Mills
thin!
with Mills
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Dringo ??, 2006 -
lukea 13 Jun, 2004 TR O/S
with Al
with Al
mr mills ??, 2000 Lead O/S very techy crux move !
with edwin
very techy crux move !
with edwin
pete johnson 11 Sep, 1994 2nd
with Steve Findlay
with Steve Findlay
Steve Walker ??, 1991 Lead
with jase, jim adey, jason cain, paul entwistle, paul
with jase, jim adey, jason cain, paul entwistle, paul
mik1miller ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with tony peacock
with tony peacock
NickHarms ??, 1989 -
Hidden ??, 1988 Lead
Mike Owen 24 May, 1987 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
keefe 14 Sep, 1986 -
Hidden 28 Jun, 1985 Lead
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1985 - fell of onto the rp - basically rocked over too far on the crux and kept on rocking right off the hold..doh!
fell of onto the rp - basically rocked over too far on the crux and kept on rocking right off the hold..doh!
15 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 7
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set