Restricted Access
Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways.
Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.
This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols, see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case. Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds
Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these birds at at time.
A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".
Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes.
The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended.
Rockfax Description
A great route - probably the best of the E5s on this slab. It is hard to read low down as there is no real line to follow. Start 10m right of Cystitis By Proxy at the first 'landing pad'. Climb the slab to a horizontal break at 10m. Continue on for 5m to a leftwards traverse and some microwires. Move up to a bolt runner, make a desperate move past this, and then follow a left-trending line to the broken ledges. Take the left bolt line. At the first bolt, traverse left for 4m to below the bolt and move up to this. From here, either step left and head direct, or take a diagonally rising line leftwards to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This route finding masterpiece is the easiest of the hard routes right of Poetry Pink. Start at a step in the scree 4m right of Cystitis by Proxy. Climb directly to a thin break and gear. Trend up and slightly left to easier ground and small wires before climbing direct to the first bolt. Make hard moves up and left past it up to the rainbow and easy climbing to clip the first bolt on Cystitis. Pick out the line traversing left for 4m to gain reasonable holds and the bolt on Released from Treatment. Continue up and left to the top grinning from ear to ear. Brilliant.
Dave Towse, John Redhead (P1) Dave Towse, A Newton (P2) 05/Apr/1986.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E5 ticklist , slate E5's , Llanberis Slate *** Routes
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rainbow Slab Area
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Womb Bits
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))