45m.

Rockfax Description
A great route - probably the best of the E5s on this slab. It is hard to read low down as there is no real line to follow. Start 10m right of Cystitis By Proxy at the first 'landing pad'. Climb the slab to a horizontal break at 10m. Continue on for 5m to a leftwards traverse and some micro wires. Move up to a bolt runner, make a desperate move past this, and then follow a left-trending line to the broken ledges. Take the left bolt line. At the first bolt, traverse left for 4m to below the bolt and move up to this. From here, either step left and head direct, or take a diagonally rising line leftwards to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This route finding masterpiece is the easiest of the hard routes right of Poetry Pink. Start at a step in the scree 4m right of Cystitis by Proxy. Climb directly to a thin break and gear. Trend up and slightly left to easier ground and small wires before climbing direct to the first bolt. Make hard moves up and left past it up to the rainbow and easy climbing to clip the first bolt on Cystitis. Pick out the line traversing left for 4m to gain reasonable holds and the bolt on Released from Treatment. Continue up and left to the top grinning from ear to ear. Brilliant.

Dave Towse, John Redhead (P1) Dave Towse, A Newton (P2) 05/Apr/1986

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E5 ticklist, slate E5's

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
willoates 28 Apr Lead O/S Awesome route! Well happy to have done it as it has intimidated me for a while. I had a little bit of gear beta for the first break, and I'm glad I did because my crappy wrack wouldn't have helped at all! I thought it felt quite bold at the top, but I may have climbed it wrong... Who knows!
Awesome route! Well happy to have done it as it has intimidated me for a while. I had a little bit of gear beta for the first break, and I'm glad I did because my crappy wrack wouldn't have helped at all! I thought it felt quite bold at the top, but I may have climbed it wrong... Who knows!
Luke Brooks 28 Apr 2nd
Alex Mason 26 Jan, 2017 Lead Mega. Not done this kind of thing in a while. Felt the animal inside. MORE!!!
Mega. Not done this kind of thing in a while. Felt the animal inside. MORE!!!
wi11 5 Jan, 2017 2nd O/S
with Brad Reed, Tim Neill
with Brad Reed, Tim Neill
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Ed morris 16 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S Fairly good gear for E5, the difficulty is in the moves. Skyhooks handy.
Fairly good gear for E5, the difficulty is in the moves. Skyhooks handy.
Hidden 16 Nov, 2014 2nd O/S
markalmack 5 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Scary route, and hard route finding. the bolts are basically the only worth wile protection.
with james marjot
Scary route, and hard route finding. the bolts are basically the only worth wile protection.
with james marjot
tim exley 27 Sep, 2013 Lead dnf
with BenRyle
with BenRyle
BenRyle 27 Sep, 2013 Lead dnf Tim and I both found challenging climbing at the 1st bolt, shall be back
Tim and I both found challenging climbing at the 1st bolt, shall be back
Stefan_Morris 18 Sep, 2013 TR dog
Alex Mason 27 Apr, 2012 Lead dnf Went to try the rainbow but it was wet so tried this instead but without guide. Popped off the crux first go. Second go made it to the rainbow but then went off route and lowered-off in fear of getting stranded on some slate E7. Awesome fun though.
with Jim McCormack
Went to try the rainbow but it was wet so tried this instead but without guide. Popped off the crux first go. Second go made it to the rainbow but then went off route and lowered-off in fear of getting stranded on some slate E7. Awesome fun though.
with Jim McCormack
Pippa 30 Apr, 2011 2nd dnf
barni 22 Mar, 2011 Lead β
Luke Brooks 22 Mar, 2011 2nd
with barni
with barni
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2011 Lead dnf Fluffed the hard moves.
with Sam Underhill
Fluffed the hard moves.
with Sam Underhill
titchbach 27 Oct, 2010 2nd outch!!
outch!!
barni 27 Apr, 2010 Lead dnf fell of by above first bolt needed to step left but went straight up oops. lowered off because i wont to do it in a oner
fell of by above first bolt needed to step left but went straight up oops. lowered off because i wont to do it in a oner
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 12 Apr, 2009 Lead G/U Fell off by the 1st bolt on my first attempt.
Fell off by the 1st bolt on my first attempt.
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead
lukea 13 Jun, 2004 TR O/S
with Al
with Al
Dave Musgrove Jnr 2 May, 1999 Lead O/S mentally taxing but very good
with Sam Dew
mentally taxing but very good
with Sam Dew
chrisdavies ??, 1991 2nd
mik1miller ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with owen jones
with owen jones
DDDD ??, 1990 -
NickHarms ??, 1989 -
Steve Walker ??, 1989 Lead difficult route finding in lower wall. Very hard if off route lol.
with stuart
difficult route finding in lower wall. Very hard if off route lol.
with stuart
Hidden ??, 1988 Lead
Mike Owen 30 May, 1987 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
keefe 14 Sep, 1986 -
Hidden 7 Jun, 1986 Lead
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1986 Lead
with Johnny Dawes
with Johnny Dawes
mitch1960 ??, 1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
with Dave Fernig
mitch1960 ??, 1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
with Dave Fernig
mitch1960 ??, 1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
with Dave Fernig
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