180m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The modern route up the buttress. Start at a rib leading up the left-hand side of the face beneath Birch Tree Terrace.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb the rib (bold) to Birch Tree Terrace. Belay beneath a steep groove.
2) 5b, 50m. Climb onto the slab via a block on the right. Climb straight up to reach a belay in some quartzy niches.
3) 5a, 25m. An overhanging groove leads to easier climbing. Follow the grain of the cliff to belay at the base of a corner/groove.
4) 35m. Climb past the groove on its left and belay at the prominent square block.
5) 5b, 35m. weave your way up the wall above, trending into the left-hand groove. Follow it for around 18m to a grassy ledge with a large block. Mount the block and climb the wall behind to the base of Terminal Arete.
7) and 8) 120m. Follow Terminal Arete (D) to the summit. © Rockfax


Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, The Road to Shibboleth.

Ewa Koc 08/Apr/17 2nd
Hidden 05/Oct/16 AltLd
neal 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1,2,4,6

with Paul Dickson
mike lawrence? 04/Jun/16 AltLd

What a great route, one of the best trad days out in the country!

with Metal
Hidden 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
james.slater 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

A proper adventure! Took 4 hours from bottom of route to top of terminal arete. Led pitch 3 and 5. The whole thing is a bit of an eliminate but seeks out some nice climbing, especially the 5th pitch. Nothing too hard (apart from the first slab move on P2!).

gingerbex 10/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Als b day. Sunshine. Finished with terminal arete

alastairbegley 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, adventure trad at its best. I wasn't expecting much gear but there was even less than I was expecting. P1 had pretty much no gear but the climbing was easy. pitch 2 was alarmingly runout up rock which was a bit questionable, gear every 13m or so... (Enjoyable pitch in hindsight). Leaving the belay on P3 was enjoyable before the scramble up to the final pitch. pitch 5 was brilliant and well protected climbing, with a tough final sequence.

wi11 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P5. Loose and dirty but worth doing

with Tamsin
James Oswald 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Good route, big and adventurous feeling. First pitch was v easy but quite bold. Though there are quite a few small spikes. The final pitch before terminal arete was the hardest, though not too difficult. Possibly HVS? Moved together on terminal arete, ace.. Good route, quite adventurous but never hard. HVS/ soft e1 maybe?

with Kiwi Dave
ben8522 ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jun/13 -
roberto18 28/May/12 Lead O/S

Great route

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
rustaldo 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

lead all the 5a and 5b pitches. wasn't sure what to expect, P1 was quite bold but not too hard, P2 was a bit of a deathtrap, quite a bit of loose rock and quite runout, definitely the crux pitch, P3 has some nice moves leaving the belay pulling through "the eaves" on quartz holds, P4 is a scramble, P5 is soft for 5b and has loads of gear. overall the climb is pretty loose in places especially P2 and P5, some scarily big chunks wobble. finished up terminal arete.

with Alex
Hidden 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
ian d f 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Very little gear on p1

pearson9596 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
pearson9596 ??/2011 2nd O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
jparry75 ?/Sep/10 AltLd
with m.evans
going going gone ?/May/10 Lead β

long, long day.

dickie01 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

P3...Remember to clean your feet, I almost fell because the clumps of grass were wet going back onto Welsh Rock. Great climb!! P5 felt like the crux pitch although the long second pitch was quite run out! got to lead the whole climb though and topped out via Terminal Arete.

with Nick Briggs
mzchambers 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

got a did lost at the top but made it there in the end.

with Joe
Somerset swede basher 20/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Dan Wicks
Daniel Wicks 20/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Dom
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/07 Lead
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 6
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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