Rockfax Description
II, 300m, 2 - 3 hours. In anything other than bad conditions this is a snow plod, but an exposed and enjoyable one. Cross the bergschrund and climb the couloir, initially on the right, before drifting back left as it steepens to around 50 degrees. Head back right near the top to reach the top of the north face.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, cross the Col des Flambeux and descend west to pass under the Aiguille de Toule North Face. Continue in this direction over the Col d'Entrèves, traverse around under the North Face and continue in the direction of the Kuffner Ridge until the west face appears on the left.
Descent - From the top of the north face, follow the excellent airy ridge east to a short descent and then a mixed traverse around to Southeast Ridge. Follow this to the summit and then descend it back towards the Col d'Entrèves. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Cracking snow/ice couloir with the great ambiance of the Cirque maudit behind making it seem much more remote than it really is. Approach from the Midi or Helbronner station, heading into the Cirque Maudit and go past the north face routes on the Tour Ronde. The route is the obvious wide couloir on the west face. Fairly sustained at around 50° with a few very short mixed sections, but quick to climb under good neve. At the top of the couloir follow the snow arete right to the top of the N Face Classic route and then either skirt the summit rock tower to gain the top of the normal route or climb the rock itself as for the N Face route.

Ticklists: Mark's Alpine Ideas 2017, Chamonix Winter Ideas.

Christine 01/Dec/16 AltLd dnf

Turned around at the top of the gully because of the sun and slushy conditions

with Nick
Shaun Sharkey ?/Jul/16 -
Hidden 15/May/16 Solo O/S
QuentinSu 20/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Alpenglow 11/Sep/14 2nd

Climbed to retrieve our lost rope.

with Tom L
John Procter 07/Sep/14 -

Reasonable condition. Not much snow, but frozen gravel where there is not full cover

with tom humphreys
John Procter 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Reasonable conditions. Not much snow, but frozen gravels where there is no cover.

with tom humphreys
gavster 24/Aug/14 2nd
with stef, rob
Rob Royle 24/Aug/14 Lead

Big day on the mountain, great route but took way too long with 3 of us having to belay every pitch.

with Steph, Gav
Frank Blakeley 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Paul
kelly_426 ?/Jul/14 -

Moved together

paulmck 09/Jun/14 -
LDudill ?/Jun/14 -

Climbed moving together. No steps as such but good snow so made quick work of it! Climbed steep awkward pitch to summit only to find could of basically walked up further around!! Descended normal route.

Grant Fulton ?/Apr/14 -

summit then ski descent

Pete Houghton 31/Mar/14 -

Brilliant summit, one of the nicest views in the area. Could only ski lower 2/3rds of the couloir, too rocky up high.

Hidden 21/Mar/14 Solo
jimmatthews 10/Mar/14 AltLd

Moved together, descended same route. Creative anchor building.

with Richard Andrews, Chris Andrews
Hidden 10/Mar/14 -
Hidden 10/Mar/14 Lead
edmitchell ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/13 -
Hidden 08/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/12 AltLd
Hoyes 31/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Easy climbing on good snow. Moved together and over took two teams of Italians. Decent route a bit loose, suspect would have been better to decend via the normal route. Will have to return for the North Face route.

Batt 31/Jul/11 AltLd

Alt lead/moved together. Great conditions, bergschrund not a prob. Took a while but not as long as the italians banging in snow stakes every 5m! Go down a bit and round to the left of summit block on rock even though looks a little improbable, don't go low, don't climb up.

HarryB 11/Apr/11 -

in descent

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Mar/10 Solo
Ben Briggs ?/Feb/09 Solo O/S

Climbed and skied the route.

with Brendan
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Neil D ?/Jul/08 Lead

In descent.

with Robert Porter
robertporter ?/Jul/08 -
Hidden 26/Jun/08 Lead O/S
SamStrong 26/Jun/08 2nd

brilliant day out.

with Rob Dyer
Will Homoky 03/Jul/04 AltLd dnf

Bailed half-way up couloir.. something to do with Ned's boots I think.

with Ned Atkins
pingora 04/Aug/89 Solo
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