Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Rockfax Description
The initial crack that leads to the midway break is smooth sided and trickier that it appears. Above the break, positive breccia holds are followed past a couple of bolts to the lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A nice little route with established hybrid status. Climb the prominent crack to a break; then climb on large concretions past two bolts to the upper break and an abseil station just above.
G Jenkin, A Tallant 14/Oct/1990.
Ticklists
Bristol Crack School , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| rbh22 | 24 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Only had my even nuts as was planning a sport day and that was more than enough. Cams would be easier though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Only had my even nuts as was planning a sport day and that was more than enough. Cams would be easier though. |
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| PaulJepson | 8 Dec, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Crack doesn't take nuts well but you can place bomber cams at the top of it from the first easy-to-reach ledge. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Crack doesn't take nuts well but you can place bomber cams at the top of it from the first easy-to-reach ledge. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry
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Sinew
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Wynd Cliff)