Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Rockfax Description
Pull up on some small concretions and then, using a tiny undercut/pocket, step left to reach the first bolt. Gain the break and make a big pull to get established on the upper wall. Continue to a ledge and lower-off on the right. Climbing direct to the first bolt is a bouldery start that increases the grade to 6c. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start 3m right of Still Stuck on You. Hard moves gain the break, above which things ease. For the full tick, tackle the direct start: this can be done in various ways, none of them obvious.
Ticklists
Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6Bs with stars near Bristol
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry
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