17 pitches. Follow the south ridge. 1 hr walk from the hut then 16 wonderful granite pitches. Descent is marked and circa 2 hours depending on how much snow is left.

A and O Amstad with G Masseto 16/Aug/1935

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Top quality Alps under 4000m, The Big Easys

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
pjor 18 Sep AltLd O/S Continuously interesting climbing on perfect granite. The rock scenery is breathtaking.
with Andy Stewart
Continuously interesting climbing on perfect granite. The rock scenery is breathtaking.
with Andy Stewart
afterthesend 17 Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Sep AltLd
MrRiley 4 Sep AltLd O/S One of the best routes I've done, perfect weather, miles of laybacking in the sky, great exposure! Some tricky pitches and overall quite sustained but the crux is far harder than the rest. Easy descent, back at the hut for dinner then down to the car. words and lots of pictures here: http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2019/09/salbitchin-on-the-sudgrat/
with Richard Hines
One of the best routes I've done, perfect weather, miles of laybacking in the sky, great exposure! Some tricky pitches and overall quite sustained but the crux is far harder than the rest. Easy descent, back at the hut for dinner then down to the car. words and lots of pictures here: http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2019/09/salbitchin-on-the-sudgrat/
with Richard Hines
Sallyreeves 27 Aug AltLd
with Kevin hall
with Kevin hall
Hidden 22 Aug Lead
Wendy Watthews 22 Aug AltLd O/S Jake did just about all the leading and the hard pitches. Fantastic route only slightly marred by a giant rope cluster when an old German overtook at a belay to make his own belay 2m further up. Had to wait at our belay while he brought his own second up.
with JakeB.
Jake did just about all the leading and the hard pitches. Fantastic route only slightly marred by a giant rope cluster when an old German overtook at a belay to make his own belay 2m further up. Had to wait at our belay while he brought his own second up.
with JakeB.
JoeCoxson 22 Aug AltLd O/S Left the hut at 06:30, base of the route in an hour. Ran everything together on one rope except the crux 6a. Topped out at 12:30, 5hrs on route, seemed longer (and it is long!). Chilled at the summit for a good while waiting to see Jake and Wendy get onto the tower. Wandered over to tick the pinnacle, took the obligatory photos and headed back for tart and beer at the hut.
Left the hut at 06:30, base of the route in an hour. Ran everything together on one rope except the crux 6a. Topped out at 12:30, 5hrs on route, seemed longer (and it is long!). Chilled at the summit for a good while waiting to see Jake and Wendy get onto the tower. Wandered over to tick the pinnacle, took the obligatory photos and headed back for tart and beer at the hut.
lukegorman 22 Aug AltLd O/S stepped on bolt through crux
stepped on bolt through crux
alexm198 18 Aug AltLd O/S 7h. Led 1-5 and 12-16. Superspaß!
with Dani Lawson, Alasdair Blackshaw
7h. Led 1-5 and 12-16. Superspaß!
with Dani Lawson, Alasdair Blackshaw
tc7118 15 Aug 2nd
Hidden 14 Aug Lead
Hoyes 9 Aug AltLd O/S
with Dave P
with Dave P
shah 9 Aug AltLd O/S
with Josh Abrahams, rowlandh
with Josh Abrahams, rowlandh
rowlandh 9 Aug AltLd
with shah
with shah
rowlandh 9 Aug AltLd
with shah
with shah
rowlandh 9 Aug AltLd
with shah
with shah
rowlandh 9 Aug AltLd
with shah
with shah
rowlandh 9 Aug AltLd
with shah
with shah
Hidden 8 Aug AltLd O/S
innes 8 Aug Lead O/S Ace. Type 1 fun.
with Ruth
Ace. Type 1 fun.
with Ruth
foostu4 8 Aug AltLd O/S
Rob Royle 4 Aug Lead dnf
with James
with James
Hidden ?Aug 2nd
Tommy Harris 26 Jul AltLd O/S Back up plan after weather not looking great for the west ridge.. definitely worth doing, lovely route.
Back up plan after weather not looking great for the west ridge.. definitely worth doing, lovely route.
Julian Prieto 26 Jul AltLd O/S
matthewbpt 14 Jul AltLd dnf We had retreat mid-way as we were quite slow and there was rain coming which we did not want to be caught in. I did the crux 5c pitch and then we decided to retreat by abseiling down. This turned out to be very arduous and the rope got stuck twice! The second time was on the last abseil luckily as we could not get it back or climb back to free it!
with Heinrich, Tijana
We had retreat mid-way as we were quite slow and there was rain coming which we did not want to be caught in. I did the crux 5c pitch and then we decided to retreat by abseiling down. This turned out to be very arduous and the rope got stuck twice! The second time was on the last abseil luckily as we could not get it back or climb back to free it!
with Heinrich, Tijana
Haf42 6 Jul AltLd O/S Came back with better weather conditions to finish it! Super happy, one small thunderstorm and a bit of rain but was still climbable, otherwise fantastic. It's easy climbing, but not as easy as the guide book says. The decent over snow fields is shitty if you're not wearing good boots + some sticks or ice axe!
with Silvan
Came back with better weather conditions to finish it! Super happy, one small thunderstorm and a bit of rain but was still climbable, otherwise fantastic. It's easy climbing, but not as easy as the guide book says. The decent over snow fields is shitty if you're not wearing good boots + some sticks or ice axe!
with Silvan
msjhes2 5 Jul AltLd It really is as good as they say it is. Descent was a bit of chore with lots of snow slopes, good job we packed the ski touring axes.
with smithaldo, clegg
It really is as good as they say it is. Descent was a bit of chore with lots of snow slopes, good job we packed the ski touring axes.
with smithaldo, clegg
olekemi 27 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Some climbs are better than others, and this climb was better than most others. Joy! The descent less so though, but fresh snow and verglas on a steep, loose, and chossy face in trainers didn't help, either.
with Martin F
Some climbs are better than others, and this climb was better than most others. Joy! The descent less so though, but fresh snow and verglas on a steep, loose, and chossy face in trainers didn't help, either.
with Martin F
hfotheri 19 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Fantastic exposure!
with simon
Fantastic exposure!
with simon
Hidden 17 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Haf42 26 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf
with Silvan
with Silvan
jameslomax 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd Block leads, Alex lead hard pitches. Pulled on a draw on the hard pitch, but got told off by Alex, so went down and did it free. Finished up a harder route on the left of grassy ledge. Route was packed with English teams
Block leads, Alex lead hard pitches. Pulled on a draw on the hard pitch, but got told off by Alex, so went down and did it free. Finished up a harder route on the left of grassy ledge. Route was packed with English teams
pete johnson 30 Jul, 2018 AltLd
pauldrew 30 Jul, 2018 AltLd Great route, 5 1/2 hrs for route. 9 hrs round trip from hut.
Great route, 5 1/2 hrs for route. 9 hrs round trip from hut.
Steve Woollard 27 Jul, 2018 - 6a crux pitch
with Graham F
6a crux pitch
with Graham F
K Mckay 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Very enjoyable
Very enjoyable
K Farrell 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with K Mckay
with K Mckay
Hidden 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
wheelsucker 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Finn Curry 30 Aug, 2017 2nd Had it to ourselves. An amazing route.
with Paul Warnock
Had it to ourselves. An amazing route.
with Paul Warnock
Helen Gibson 29 Aug, 2017 - Beautiful positions and great climbing but grades were harder than guide book suggests. Quite alot of HVS climbing with crux E1 5c
with Graham Hoey
Beautiful positions and great climbing but grades were harder than guide book suggests. Quite alot of HVS climbing with crux E1 5c
with Graham Hoey
RobScarisbrick 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd Took the russian route to get ahead of the crowds. Great choice in the end, tricky but satisfying
with kingjam
Took the russian route to get ahead of the crowds. Great choice in the end, tricky but satisfying
with kingjam
kingjam 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd Climbed via ruska route so top grade around 6a+
Climbed via ruska route so top grade around 6a+
Mark Brand 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd dnf
with Tereza
with Tereza
Dave Rumney 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd Exceptional climbing, position, exposure and atmospherics. A very enjoyable day out
with Megan
Exceptional climbing, position, exposure and atmospherics. A very enjoyable day out
with Megan
chapmand 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S 10hrs hut to hut. 7hrs climbing. With Ian Stewart.
10hrs hut to hut. 7hrs climbing. With Ian Stewart.
Paul Eckton 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Kevster
with Kevster
Kevster 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd Great positions, never desperate, what else to say.
Great positions, never desperate, what else to say.
Hidden ??, 2017 Lead
Hidden 30 Sep, 2016 -
Mark Fairhurst 25 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Callum McWilliam
with Callum McWilliam
chris_B 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with louby
with louby
Nemmie ?Aug, 2016 AltLd Full linkup of Takala, South ridge and Direkte Sudwand - "Supersudgrat"
Full linkup of Takala, South ridge and Direkte Sudwand - "Supersudgrat"
Catsjit 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Denoir 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd had an epic bail a few pitches from the top when it started hailing and snowing. blind abseils into mist, guidebook lost on descent, ropes stuck when pulling them through followed by a dash back to the hut for 'last orders'. Classic.
had an epic bail a few pitches from the top when it started hailing and snowing. blind abseils into mist, guidebook lost on descent, ropes stuck when pulling them through followed by a dash back to the hut for 'last orders'. Classic.
Rob84 1 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S I can't imagine alpine rock getting much better than this - in fact it's possibly the best rock route I've done full stop. Every pitch is a classic - something I never thought possible on such a long route.
I can't imagine alpine rock getting much better than this - in fact it's possibly the best rock route I've done full stop. Every pitch is a classic - something I never thought possible on such a long route.
Hidden 1 Jul, 2016 -
lukas_s 24 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S The day before my birthday, happy times! Perfect weather, perfect route and only very few other people. still a lot of snow
with tabea
The day before my birthday, happy times! Perfect weather, perfect route and only very few other people. still a lot of snow
with tabea
Lakesben 26 Aug, 2015 AltLd
gingerbex 21 Aug, 2015 2nd Led first and 4th pitches only.many of the 4a/b pitches harder I thought. Amazing day. Fantastic exposure. Longest climbing day ice done
Led first and 4th pitches only.many of the 4a/b pitches harder I thought. Amazing day. Fantastic exposure. Longest climbing day ice done
alastairbegley 21 Aug, 2015 Lead Fantastic route. Wouldn't pay too much notice to the given grades on the topo, overall felt around HVS with lots of HS/VS
Fantastic route. Wouldn't pay too much notice to the given grades on the topo, overall felt around HVS with lots of HS/VS
Michael 13 Aug, 2015 -
Guss1 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
BALD EAGLE 12 Aug, 2015 2nd Fantastic climb and fully lived up to it's reputation as one the classic climbs of it's grade in the whole of the Alps! 15 pitches of superb climbing on immaculate granite though it felt tougher and more sustained than in the description. If you have time take in the Gipfelnadel summit needle for the classic photogenic shot! :-)
with Neil Harper, David Martinez Majo
Fantastic climb and fully lived up to it's reputation as one the classic climbs of it's grade in the whole of the Alps! 15 pitches of superb climbing on immaculate granite though it felt tougher and more sustained than in the description. If you have time take in the Gipfelnadel summit needle for the classic photogenic shot! :-)
with Neil Harper, David Martinez Majo
OTB 9 Aug, 2015 AltLd dnf Stormed off the second tower, after leading the beautiful 5a pitch.
Stormed off the second tower, after leading the beautiful 5a pitch.
Hidden 5 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
PTatts 5 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Moved together on some of the easier ground. Fantastic route, base to summit in about 4 and a half hours.
with Oli
Moved together on some of the easier ground. Fantastic route, base to summit in about 4 and a half hours.
with Oli
Si ?Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
alex toomey 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Northern Monkey Climber 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd
David Horwood 6 Jul, 2015 -
plain kitten ?Sep, 2014 -
jamie ward 21 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Williams
with Stuart Williams
dan gibson 30 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with andrew porter
with andrew porter
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
crag_monster ?Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Lucy
with Lucy
Andrew Nelson ??, 2013 - Clients
Clients
jcw ??, 2013 -
nking100 ??, 2013 -
Hidden 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd
wherewelf 8 Sep, 2012 -
Hidden 3 Sep, 2012 AltLd dog
marie_p 21 Aug, 2012 2nd Wow! First Alpine route. Completely addicted now
with Lucio, Tom
Wow! First Alpine route. Completely addicted now
with Lucio, Tom
tomdude 21 Aug, 2012 AltLd Finally! Amazing route, almost every pitch was brilliant. Harder than the guidebook grades would suggest, in my opinion...
with marie, lucio
Finally! Amazing route, almost every pitch was brilliant. Harder than the guidebook grades would suggest, in my opinion...
with marie, lucio
HimTiggins 12 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Michael, tebs
with Michael, tebs
Hidden 12 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
Keith Lambley 26 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Andrew M
with Andrew M
Hidden 26 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 2012 AltLd
davenev 18 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Long way and very busy
Long way and very busy
Mr Tickle 17 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S A very hot day, but a great climb
with davenev
A very hot day, but a great climb
with davenev
Martin Bennett 17 Jul, 2012 -
with Ali
with Ali
joe_lancs 2 Jul, 2012 Lead Excellent route!
Excellent route!
LozM ?Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Mark J
with Mark J
alpinist63 23 Jun, 2012 -
ChrisBrooke 23 Jun, 2012 AltLd
davebrox ?Aug, 2011 Lead β
Will Gordon ?Jul, 2011 Lead Snow/mist, climbed four pitches before abseiling/descending.
Snow/mist, climbed four pitches before abseiling/descending.
James W 25 Jun, 2011 2nd
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
alkira ??, 2011 -
with mark ryle
with mark ryle
alkira ??, 2011 -
John HW 4 Sep, 2010 AltLd A justifiably classic climb stayed at the Salbit Hut. Weather dry but climbed in mist for most of the day. We took 8 hrs to get to the summit. Descent route very challenging (took 3 1/2 hours) lots of snow to negotiate (in approach shoes) we moved roped together until out of the couloir. Hans Berger the Hut Guardian saved us some soup and bread. We were not the last down as 3 guys got their ropes hung up on the abseil pisté and had to get rescued all ended well, they got in at 0200hrs.
with Cath
A justifiably classic climb stayed at the Salbit Hut. Weather dry but climbed in mist for most of the day. We took 8 hrs to get to the summit. Descent route very challenging (took 3 1/2 hours) lots of snow to negotiate (in approach shoes) we moved roped together until out of the couloir. Hans Berger the Hut Guardian saved us some soup and bread. We were not the last down as 3 guys got their ropes hung up on the abseil pisté and had to get rescued all ended well, they got in at 0200hrs.
with Cath
brockers 25 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Superb ridge climbing!! Did the 'super-sudgrat' enchainment with Takala and Sudwand Direckt
Superb ridge climbing!! Did the 'super-sudgrat' enchainment with Takala and Sudwand Direckt
Hidden 25 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Elsier 16 Jul, 2010 AltLd Brilliant route!
with Stuart
Brilliant route!
with Stuart
Neil McA 12 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Link up of Takala and South Ridge gave a great day out - perfect!
with paul innes
Link up of Takala and South Ridge gave a great day out - perfect!
with paul innes
9fingerjon 12 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Chris V
with Chris V
vanderz 11 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with jon morgan
with jon morgan
daveclarke5 ??, 2009 -
rob1 24 Jul, 2008 AltLd
Andy Clarke 24 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S Excellent route in a magnificent setting. Used the point of aid on the crux pitch. Will have to come back for the West Ridge at some point.
with rob1
Excellent route in a magnificent setting. Used the point of aid on the crux pitch. Will have to come back for the West Ridge at some point.
with rob1
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 Lead
Antony Mariani ??, 2008 AltLd O/S One of the best! Efficient movement got us back to the hut by the time thunder rolled in
with Jon Rae
One of the best! Efficient movement got us back to the hut by the time thunder rolled in
with Jon Rae
jev 5 Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Julian, Jonas
with Julian, Jonas
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?Jul, 2005 AltLd
with Lofty
with Lofty
NickJH ?Jul, 2004 AltLd
with TJackson
with TJackson
Hidden ??, 2001 AltLd
Hidden 31 Jul, 1997 Lead
babymoac 11 Jul, 1990 AltLd
with Rich Reeder
with Rich Reeder
RichardMc 13 Jul, 1981 Lead
with Dave Lund
with Dave Lund
bobelvedere ?Jul, 1980 Lead
with Lene Vestergaard
with Lene Vestergaard
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Voting
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set