Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
The steep and pumpy groove gives a fine sustained pitch. Climb the groove until it is possible to pull over to less awkward ground. Continue to a good stance. Abseil off or continue up Brown's Blunder. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The central crack line is jammed and laybacked with a good splattering of face holds to a crux hoik around the middle of the route. Juggy holds and a hanging corner are all which remain before the large belay ledge (in-situ threads).
Ticklists
World Graded List , On Peak Rock , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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The Eye of Faith
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Gardom's Edge)