UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

Rockfax Description
A taxing wall with some absorbing climbing that is not as bold as grit routes of the same grade. Abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The centre of the hanging white shield is comprised of a mixture of interesting holds. Momentum is slowed some way below the protruding peg, from where crux moves allow a standing position to be achieved and the peg finally clipped. Easier rock remains, but concentration must be maintained.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution

Feedback

User Date Notes
donie 11 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: totally clean and peg is sound
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: totally clean and peg is sound

Logged Ascents

49 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 6
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Don

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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