UKC

20m. An alternative, eliminate, bold start for Sabre Tooth. Pull up onto a ledge under the right- hand, slabby side of the Just out of Reach arĂȘte). Balance up on the RH side of the arĂȘte (vital twisted wire in small pocket just right) to bigger holds and a horizontal break above. Move straight up and join Sabre Tooth at its fang, and finish direct up the hanging arete staying as direct as possible, left of the corner of Sabre Tooth Direct, spanning the arete finishing on the jug right on the top corner of the arete. Note that this line is distinct from the obvious diagonal crack (Sabre Tooth Direct) in the left wall which is not used (including for protection).

Martin Crocker, Matt Goater 06/Nov/2022.

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Guidebooks for Daddyhole Upper Cliff

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High E1
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Route of Interest
Midnight Cowboy

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Baggy Point)

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