70m, 2 pitches. Corner to the left of Savage Slit.
1. Starting for Savage Slit, climb awkwardly into the corner and go directly upwards through a small roof and belay under the first large roof.
2. Climb past the first roof (crux) using the off width crack. Continue past the second to the top.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
davesykes 16 Mar - Under heavy snow - courageous lead from Stan on P2. P1 unconsolidated snow with no base. Massive powder chutes and just warm enough to be soaked through by them. Most useful info is that an adze on a nomic means you can torque the wide crack. Most unhelpful slippery snow in the crack on the first overhang. Camalot 4 protected crux - 5 would have been useful but not placed by the leader. Stein pull on chockstone but don't leave it behind like I did - real battle to release it. Hard under these conditions.
Under heavy snow - courageous lead from Stan on P2. P1 unconsolidated snow with no base. Massive powder chutes and just warm enough to be soaked through by them. Most useful info is that an adze on a nomic means you can torque the wide crack. Most unhelpful slippery snow in the crack on the first overhang. Camalot 4 protected crux - 5 would have been useful but not placed by the leader. Stein pull on chockstone but don't leave it behind like I did - real battle to release it. Hard under these conditions.
calumhicks 10 Mar Lead 90 mph gusts on plateau, loads of spindrift and no goggles made for hard climbing. Led P1&2. axe popped just after the roof, couldn't really see what I was pulling on, probably shoulda saved it for a nicer day! Nice techy climbing
90 mph gusts on plateau, loads of spindrift and no goggles made for hard climbing. Led P1&2. axe popped just after the roof, couldn't really see what I was pulling on, probably shoulda saved it for a nicer day! Nice techy climbing
Liam Watson 10 Mar 2nd O/S Came with all the spindrift a person could ever want.
Came with all the spindrift a person could ever want.
Hidden 8 Mar AltLd O/S
Misha 8 Mar AltLd O/S Decent early season (!) conditions. Hard to believe it was summer a couple of weeks back! Fair bit of hoar made for a fair bit of clearing but cracks not iced up. I did P1, which featured a techy traverse on poor hooks and so-so gear - I started up SS and did a horizontal traverse left by looks like you’re actually meant to start a bit further left and go up diagonally. Tim got the big lead and did a great job of it. There’s a hard bit going through an overlap but it’s on decent gear. The crux offwidth crack needs a cam 5 or ideally two of them (stacked hexes would be pretty hard to place). You will hurt yourself badly if you come off without gear - the only other gear is a thread over a metre below your feet and below that is a sloping ledge. Tim shoved it far up the crack where it was drier. Probably ok but not something to test! We both did a double stein pull - not something I’ve ever done before outside dry tooling! Aftert a bit of space walking shuffling off the stein pulls, there were a couple of poor hooks and then a tenuous move to a better hook and an in situ cam. Interest is maintained above through the second roof. A varied and sustained pitch, possibly the hardest I’ve done. Was on the belay for over three hours, pummelled by sporadic spindrift, but otherwise the day wasn’t as bad as we had feared. The crux pitch is worth three stars and the overall route is worth a couple.
Decent early season (!) conditions. Hard to believe it was summer a couple of weeks back! Fair bit of hoar made for a fair bit of clearing but cracks not iced up. I did P1, which featured a techy traverse on poor hooks and so-so gear - I started up SS and did a horizontal traverse left by looks like you’re actually meant to start a bit further left and go up diagonally. Tim got the big lead and did a great job of it. There’s a hard bit going through an overlap but it’s on decent gear. The crux offwidth crack needs a cam 5 or ideally two of them (stacked hexes would be pretty hard to place). You will hurt yourself badly if you come off without gear - the only other gear is a thread over a metre below your feet and below that is a sloping ledge. Tim shoved it far up the crack where it was drier. Probably ok but not something to test! We both did a double stein pull - not something I’ve ever done before outside dry tooling! Aftert a bit of space walking shuffling off the stein pulls, there were a couple of poor hooks and then a tenuous move to a better hook and an in situ cam. Interest is maintained above through the second roof. A varied and sustained pitch, possibly the hardest I’ve done. Was on the belay for over three hours, pummelled by sporadic spindrift, but otherwise the day wasn’t as bad as we had feared. The crux pitch is worth three stars and the overall route is worth a couple.
Rhys Deane 5 Mar AltLd O/S Class route! Lead top pitch! Wouldn’t have wanted to lead with out BD 5 cam
Class route! Lead top pitch! Wouldn’t have wanted to lead with out BD 5 cam
Robertgiddy 5 Mar AltLd In three pitches, lead p2. Good effort by Rhys on the crux, big cam was almost too big! A bit more freeze required for turfy routes to come good.
In three pitches, lead p2. Good effort by Rhys on the crux, big cam was almost too big! A bit more freeze required for turfy routes to come good.
iainballantyne 5 Mar AltLd O/S Fantastic day out! Stellar lead from Rhys on the crux pitch! Thank god for Big Bertha, she was maybe a touch obese for the crack...
Fantastic day out! Stellar lead from Rhys on the crux pitch! Thank god for Big Bertha, she was maybe a touch obese for the crack...
Alasdair Fulton 20 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S Nice route, definitely spicy when you don't have a big cam. Stacked fist jams in winter? Oh yes!
with James Sutton
Nice route, definitely spicy when you don't have a big cam. Stacked fist jams in winter? Oh yes!
with James Sutton
Ramon Marin 9 Jan, 2016 AltLd dnf First route in Scottish winter. We got on it as every other line was taken. We didn't have the beta for the gear so we bailed.
with Scott G
First route in Scottish winter. We got on it as every other line was taken. We didn't have the beta for the gear so we bailed.
with Scott G
Pete Graham ??, 2016 AltLd O/S
with John Crook
with John Crook
mim tiller 12 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead p2. Hardest bit was stacking two hexes with one hand under the roof, pretty fiddily!
Lead p2. Hardest bit was stacking two hexes with one hand under the roof, pretty fiddily!
Martin McKenna - UKC 12 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Jan, 2015 AltLd
GraMc 27 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S Other than the slightly bold and tenuous moves past the big overhang it felt low in the grade. Fun climbing
with rob
Other than the slightly bold and tenuous moves past the big overhang it felt low in the grade. Fun climbing
with rob
robpartridge 27 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
with GraMc
with GraMc
Fatherof2 17 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S Great route better than 1* in guidebook. Large hex or friend would make it less scary! 60m ab from top of savage slit.
with Roger
Great route better than 1* in guidebook. Large hex or friend would make it less scary! 60m ab from top of savage slit.
with Roger
D.Russell 3 Nov, 2012 AltLd O/S
Greg Boswell 3 Nov, 2012 AltLd O/S Sacked two hexes in the wide crack to protect the crux, tricky to place but made for a safer climb.
with Dougie Russell
Sacked two hexes in the wide crack to protect the crux, tricky to place but made for a safer climb.
with Dougie Russell
jameshiggins 2 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Wild and wintry but enjoyable climbing. Andy led the bulges pitch.
with Andy Inglis
Wild and wintry but enjoyable climbing. Andy led the bulges pitch.
with Andy Inglis
andyinglis 2 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Really good climbing, on a wild day. Big cam was too small. Lead P2.
Really good climbing, on a wild day. Big cam was too small. Lead P2.
Neil Adams 4 Dec, 2011 AltLd Great start to the season. Surprisingly icy conditions! http://scottishclimbers.blogspot.com/2011/12/battle-of-bulge.html
with Heike
Great start to the season. Surprisingly icy conditions! http://scottishclimbers.blogspot.com/2011/12/battle-of-bulge.html
with Heike
Heike 4 Dec, 2011 AltLd Great route, never thought to find so much snow, ice and neve today!
Great route, never thought to find so much snow, ice and neve today!
Dave Almond 30 Jan, 2011 Lead committing without any big cams
with Helen Rennard
committing without any big cams
with Helen Rennard
andyinglis 19 Dec, 2010 AltLd dnf Very hard conditions with cracks choked with ice, and hoar on top. Ab'ed off from top of P1.
Very hard conditions with cracks choked with ice, and hoar on top. Ab'ed off from top of P1.
Neil Adams 19 Dec, 2010 Lead dnf Hard conditions - struggled to find any gear in the ice-choked cracks. Abbed off below the crux
Hard conditions - struggled to find any gear in the ice-choked cracks. Abbed off below the crux
Hidden 25 Oct, 2010 AltLd dnf
Hidden 7 Feb, 2009 -
Ian Parnell ?Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Feb, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2002 AltLd
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