350m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb climb and one of the most sought after in the area. The Vinatzer offers excellent climbing throughout, with a stiff but well protected crux through the roof immediately after the Spiral Terrace.
Start at an easy leftwards leading ledge, directly under a yellow and black niche.
1) IV, 50m. Traverse the ledge leftwards on easy ground until you reach a rightwards sloping ramp. Climb diagonally right on good grey rock for a few metres, then direct to gain a rightwards trending wide chimney which can be damp after rain. Continue up this on good rock to a stance on shattered rock.
2) IV, 30m. Climb mainly direct, trending ever so slightly left on good rock, following a flared crack, to a good stance on a small, deep ledge underneath the chimney.
3) V, 40m. Climb the chimney, past one strenuous move near the top, to exit onto a small ledge. Continue slightly right on good rock to belay under a chimney.
4) V, 40m. Continue up the next chimney, then trend right into a wide corner with a grey slab on its right-hand wall. Overcome a crack to reach a niche with a thread belay under the overhangs.
5) IV+, 50m. Make an easy but exposed 10m traverse leftwards (a direct variant is possible), then climb up easy grey rock to the Spiral Terrace. Belay on boulders/threads, underneath the finger crack. It is possible to escape off the route down the Spiral Terrace if required.
6) V+, 25m. Climb the enjoyable finger crack on good holds - a little polished within the crack itself, but very well protected. Overcome the steep overhang with powerful moves on big holds (but not much for the feet). Continue on good holds, with steep climbing up the wider continuation crack, to a 3-peg belay.
7) IV+, 25m. Follow the crack above for 30m, bearing slightly left to a 2-peg belay, below a large chimney.
8) IV+, 35m. Continue up the right-trending chimney crack, passing a 2-peg belay. Continue direct then right to a stance to the left of arete (pegs and possible thread).
From here there are two possible finishes. The easiest and most popular leads around the right of the arete to join the final pitches of Via Jahn. Alternatively a harder (but arguably better) finish takes the original line which goes direct.
Original Finish
9) V-, 30m. Keep left and follow a crack on the edge of the arete. Move left and climb up for 10m to reach an overhanging crack.
10) IV+, 35m. Climb the initially steep crack which widens to form a chimney. Follow this then climb a grey slab to join the final pitch of the Via Jahn.
11) As for the final pitch of Via Jahn.
FA. Vinatzer, Peristi 1935, FA. Via Jahn. Jahn, Merlet, Dyrenfurth 1918
Via Jahn
9) III+, 45m. Continue up to then cross onto the right side of the arete, climbing the large open corner to another peg belay.
10) IV, 25m. Climb the crack above, with a prominent flake on its left-hand side, into an open corner and chimney. Follow the loose chimney to a rocky pulpit.
11) III, 50m. Head left from the rocky pulpit for a couple of metres, then climb direct over black and grey rock slabs, with many lines possible on reasonably good rock, to belay on the rocks below the summit. © Rockfax

Vinatzer, Peristi 1935

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

youwillfindjimbo 05/Oct AltLd O/S
with Danny G
mop449 05/Oct AltLd O/S
with Jimbo
jon_gill1 21/Aug AltLd
with chris Lyness
ripper 21/Aug AltLd

Came back for this after backing off it 5 years ago, due to delays caused by route mis-reading. This time we were going great guns but got stuck behind slower friends in front, who had probably bitten off slightly more than they could chew - ended up helping them through the crux, then waiting for them to catch up above (we took original finish, they did the Via Jahn alternative). Dark before we topped out, so then stuck together as a four for the descent too. All told, a 16-hour day out but most importantly everyone got back safely in the end.

with matt c
MoWalker3 19/Jul AltLd
with Doc
anja.sraj 05/Jul AltLd O/S

Lead 3., 5., and 8. or 9. pitch

with Matej Balažič "Piki"
RocKalina ?/Jul AltLd O/S
colin milton 21/Jun Lead
with eric milton
Hidden 17/Jun -
Bernie L 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Flo G
Dizz 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Amazing crux pitch! Amazing descent - just v good!

with Martina
Hidden ?/Jul/16 AltLd
QuentinSu 17/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Stop at the middle...wind and rain

the power 12/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Mega,cold ,sunny,warm,cold,rock,dark,fog, casam of death,gully of doom.12 hours haha

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Best route of trip, stuck behind a fella being guided, slowed us down enofe to just let it get dark on the decent. Snow and ice in the gulley. Rope got stuck on the 3rd abb, rope friction hich around bolder, climbed loose rock to release:-) wrong way on last abb before lege, ended up in a cave:-) ree belay and dropt down to the lege. Found close we had left and considerd staying on lege, continued down gulley, hit on helmet by small rock with made a grate noise, continued without further incident. Started at 11.30am down off route at 10.00pm Ha ha ha ha I love a epics

giuly 31/Aug/15 AltLd
with Roberto Bettotti
fuzzysheep01 05/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Pierce Ferris
Mike W ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S

to half way lege

Paul Crusher R 29/Jul/15 AltLd

rained off it 15 years ago... great route

pauldrew 11/Jul/15 AltLd
with Ali Hutton
Kevster 06/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Altitude makes it a long day!

Mike Hood 28/Sep/14 AltLd
with jordan, Alex
Alex Munnery ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
james1978 ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with pam
Hidden 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
tebs 17/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Top notch. A great finish to the holiday. Crux pitch about HVS and really really good.

with Rich
Keith Lambley 08/Sep/12 -
with Karen W
Hidden 21/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
roberts1234567890 08/Aug/12 AltLd
with Rebecca Murray
Hidden 02/Aug/12 -
Hidden 02/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
tomhull 02/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

excellent, lead the crux pitch, got blasted briefly by hail then had a sunny adventurous descent.

with matt harris
Hidden 02/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
ripper ?/Jun/12 AltLd dnf

Only got as far as the spiral terrace after major route-finding difficulties below (found Classic Dolomite Climbs line to be correct, Dolomites East/West very misleading). So late arriving at the terrace that we decided it was best to bail. Will be back!

with Lyness, Pierce, Matt Chap
tcn_2002 26/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Peter Holder 31/May/11 AltLd O/S

Loose rock on the easier pitches. The finger crack had great gear and solid rock. Wet overhang pitch and final top out pitch (from the right) felt like the cruxes. Ab Ring was covered in snow so we took 3 50m abs down to the ledge. Halfway down the second ab a rock flew down from the top and smacked me in the face as I was looking up.

with Josh Legg
josh william legg ?/May/11 Lead

Ab point at the top of the tower was under alot off snow, so we had a scary descent down the route we had just climbed, but still back for tea!

Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 12/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Huge thunderstorm struck as I was finishing the traverse pitch under the roof before the mid-height ledge, pretty scary!

Hidden 12/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
skeight88 ?/Jul/10 2nd
givemetea 27/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

fabulous roof pitch

with Robert
rd20 27/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Direct Finish. Roslyn led crux pitch 5+ (finger crack and overhang) RD ran pitches 11 and 12 (5) together

with Roslyn
Hidden 26/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug/09 AltLd
jimdanson 12/Aug/09 AltLd

Route gets better the higher you go. Direct finish is well worth it at the same sort of grade. The downclimbing is scary but steady away.

twoplates 12/Aug/09 2nd
with Dan M, Jim Danson
whistler 27/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

very high! complex descent!

with Anna
Anna_wells ?/Jul/09 -
with pete
Richard Gilbert 30/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Great climb, awkward descent. Jerry led the finger crack pitch from the Spiral Ledge - lovely stuff.

with Jerry Ostrowski
Dave Rumney 08/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with James McDowall
paul79 ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
decs 18/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

A bit wet low down. Great mountain day.

with Sam Hawkins
Kopo ??/2008 -
with Olli
John HW 10/Jul/07 AltLd

A fantastic route, very scary descent down an ice filled couloir, complete with a TV sized block falling down it. Head torch descent - only had one between us as I had left mine at the bottom of the crag in my daysack. Cold pizza for dinner again!

with Cath
Euan Strachan 10/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Henward
WB 04/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Guy
FrankW 17/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Joe
John HW 15/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

The descent from the top of the third tower is over unstable rock. The final gully was ice filled and a lot of rock followed us down scary at times.

with Cath
alpinist63 25/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
chris wyatt ?/Aug/04 AltLd rpt
with Gareth Tucker
Hidden 29/Jun/04 Lead O/S
akhughes ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
Hidden ?/May/00 AltLd O/S
tjekel ??/2000 -
awhitta1 ?/Oct/99 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
IanD353 ?/Jul/89 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/88 AltLd O/S
dtalbot ?/Jun/79 AltLd

Sad that the next day a Brit was killed on this route.

with Rory O'Conor
Rob Davies 13/Aug/77 AltLd

Climbed as 2 pairs. Tangled up with other parties, got off route, rope stuck on last abseil, so very slow. Rope retrieved next day. Pitch above big ledge was hard in big boots, i.e. A0 in places

with Laurie Gardiner, Charles Kinniburgh, David Kinniburgh
Falko 01/Aug/73 Lead O/S
with TRE
eroica64 ?/Jul/71 AltLd

c2,000 feet top to bottom. 4.5 - 5 hours.

with Stephen Carrot, Ron Hardaker, Roger Everett
Seymore Butt ??/1966 -
with John Whitfield
jcw ??/1966 -

Twice, 1966 and 1967

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High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
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