350m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb climb and one of the most sought after in the area. The Vinatzer offers excellent climbing throughout, with a stiff but well protected crux through the roof immediately after the Spiral Terrace.
Start at an easy leftwards leading ledge, directly under a yellow and black niche.
1) IV, 50m. Traverse the ledge leftwards on easy ground until you reach a rightwards sloping ramp. Climb diagonally right on good grey rock for a few metres, then direct to gain a rightwards trending wide chimney which can be damp after rain. Continue up this on good rock to a stance on shattered rock.
2) IV, 30m. Climb mainly direct, trending ever so slightly left on good rock, following a flared crack, to a good stance on a small, deep ledge underneath the chimney.
3) V, 40m. Climb the chimney, past one strenuous move near the top, to exit onto a small ledge. Continue slightly right on good rock to belay under a chimney.
4) V, 40m. Continue up the next chimney, then trend right into a wide corner with a grey slab on its right-hand wall. Overcome a crack to reach a niche with a thread belay under the overhangs.
5) IV+, 50m. Make an easy but exposed 10m traverse leftwards (a direct variant is possible), then climb up easy grey rock to the Spiral Terrace. Belay on boulders/threads, underneath the finger crack. It is possible to escape off the route down the Spiral Terrace if required.
6) V+, 25m. Climb the enjoyable finger crack on good holds - a little polished within the crack itself, but very well protected. Overcome the steep overhang with powerful moves on big holds (but not much for the feet). Continue on good holds, with steep climbing up the wider continuation crack, to a 3-peg belay.
7) IV+, 25m. Follow the crack above for 30m, bearing slightly left to a 2-peg belay, below a large chimney.
8) IV+, 35m. Continue up the right-trending chimney crack, passing a 2-peg belay. Continue direct then right to a stance to the left of arete (pegs and possible thread).
From here there are two possible finishes. The easiest and most popular leads around the right of the arete to join the final pitches of Via Jahn. Alternatively a harder (but arguably better) finish takes the original line which goes direct.
Original Finish
9) V-, 30m. Keep left and follow a crack on the edge of the arete. Move left and climb up for 10m to reach an overhanging crack.
10) IV+, 35m. Climb the initially steep crack which widens to form a chimney. Follow this then climb a grey slab to join the final pitch of the Via Jahn.
11) As for the final pitch of Via Jahn. © Rockfax

Vinatzer, Peristi 1935

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
badgerjockey 22 Sep AltLd O/S Best DNF ever. Bailed due to impending rain, fog and wind from the belay above the crux pitch. Apart from a lot of loose rock on the first two pitches the climbing is consistently excellent and the book description good. Crux pitch is a VI- I reckon, HVS 5b with cold fingers. Direct variant of p5 is worth doing at V.
Best DNF ever. Bailed due to impending rain, fog and wind from the belay above the crux pitch. Apart from a lot of loose rock on the first two pitches the climbing is consistently excellent and the book description good. Crux pitch is a VI- I reckon, HVS 5b with cold fingers. Direct variant of p5 is worth doing at V.
Oscar Popels 22 Sep AltLd Absolute banger! All great pitches. The cloud descended while we were in the half way ledge so we bailed after the crux pitch. Incredible climbing
Absolute banger! All great pitches. The cloud descended while we were in the half way ledge so we bailed after the crux pitch. Incredible climbing
peakschris 19 Sep AltLd O/S Found the steep/overhanging finger crack the physical crux but the one loose pitch on original finish was easy but terrifying.
with Mark Yoxon PCC
Found the steep/overhanging finger crack the physical crux but the one loose pitch on original finish was easy but terrifying.
with Mark Yoxon PCC
Hidden 28 Aug AltLd O/S
efrance24234 4 Aug Lead O/S
Joshua.Brunning 12 Jul AltLd
with Fiona B
with Fiona B
Dexter JW 10 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with 10mm, Ben Cianchi
with 10mm, Ben Cianchi
Ben Cianchi 10 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S Sling harness all the way. Uncomfortable abseils. With Dex and Dan Lamb.
Sling harness all the way. Uncomfortable abseils. With Dex and Dan Lamb.
Mackinclimb 31 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Good route. Probably top end VS.
Good route. Probably top end VS.
arose 31 Jul, 2018 AltLd Good fun. First route of the trip. Did the messner the same day.
Good fun. First route of the trip. Did the messner the same day.
s.hunter 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
daveclarke5 24 Jul, 2018 AltLd Really didn’t think I was going to manage the crux. Descent okay to the final gully - muddy nightmare!
with Stephen
Really didn’t think I was going to manage the crux. Descent okay to the final gully - muddy nightmare!
with Stephen
Hidden 23 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 2018 Lead
with Alison Culshaw
with Alison Culshaw
youwillfindjimbo 5 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
with mop449
with mop449
mop449 5 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Big day out. Incredible experience and first 'big wall'. Base to base in 10 hours.
Big day out. Incredible experience and first 'big wall'. Base to base in 10 hours.
jon_gill1 21 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with chris Lyness
with chris Lyness
ripper 21 Aug, 2017 AltLd Came back for this after backing off it 5 years ago, due to delays caused by route mis-reading. This time we were going great guns but got stuck behind slower friends in front, who had probably bitten off slightly more than they could chew - ended up helping them through the crux, then waiting for them to catch up above (we took original finish, they did the Via Jahn alternative). Dark before we topped out, so then stuck together as a four for the descent too. All told, a 16-hour day out but most importantly everyone got back safely in the end.
with matt c
Came back for this after backing off it 5 years ago, due to delays caused by route mis-reading. This time we were going great guns but got stuck behind slower friends in front, who had probably bitten off slightly more than they could chew - ended up helping them through the crux, then waiting for them to catch up above (we took original finish, they did the Via Jahn alternative). Dark before we topped out, so then stuck together as a four for the descent too. All told, a 16-hour day out but most importantly everyone got back safely in the end.
with matt c
MoWalker3 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Doc
with Doc
garygecko 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Mo
with Mo
anja.sraj 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead 3., 5., and 8. or 9. pitch
with Matej Balažič "Piki"
Lead 3., 5., and 8. or 9. pitch
with Matej Balažič "Piki"
RocKalina ?Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
colin milton 21 Jun, 2017 Lead
with eric milton
with eric milton
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 -
Bronwyn Tarr ?Jun, 2017 2nd
countchalkula ?Jun, 2017 Lead dnf
Bernie L 26 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Flo G
with Flo G
Dizz 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Amazing crux pitch! Amazing descent - just v good!
with Martina
Amazing crux pitch! Amazing descent - just v good!
with Martina
Hidden ?Jul, 2016 AltLd
QuentinSu 17 Sep, 2015 Lead dnf Stop at the middle...wind and rain
Stop at the middle...wind and rain
the power 12 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Mega,cold ,sunny,warm,cold,rock,dark,fog, casam of death,gully of doom.12 hours haha
Mega,cold ,sunny,warm,cold,rock,dark,fog, casam of death,gully of doom.12 hours haha
Andy Peak 1 ?Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Best route of trip, stuck behind a fella being guided, slowed us down enofe to just let it get dark on the decent. Snow and ice in the gulley. Rope got stuck on the 3rd abb, rope friction hich around bolder, climbed loose rock to release:-) wrong way on last abb before lege, ended up in a cave:-) ree belay and dropt down to the lege. Found close we had left and considerd staying on lege, continued down gulley, hit on helmet by small rock with made a grate noise, continued without further incident. Started at 11.30am down off route at 10.00pm Ha ha ha ha I love a epics
Best route of trip, stuck behind a fella being guided, slowed us down enofe to just let it get dark on the decent. Snow and ice in the gulley. Rope got stuck on the 3rd abb, rope friction hich around bolder, climbed loose rock to release:-) wrong way on last abb before lege, ended up in a cave:-) ree belay and dropt down to the lege. Found close we had left and considerd staying on lege, continued down gulley, hit on helmet by small rock with made a grate noise, continued without further incident. Started at 11.30am down off route at 10.00pm Ha ha ha ha I love a epics
giuly 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd
with Roberto Bettotti
with Roberto Bettotti
fuzzysheep01 5 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Pierce Ferris
with Pierce Ferris
Mike W ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S to half way lege
to half way lege
Paul Crusher R 29 Jul, 2015 AltLd rained off it 15 years ago... great route
rained off it 15 years ago... great route
pauldrew 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Ali Hutton
with Ali Hutton
Paul Eckton 6 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Kevster
with Kevster
Kevster 6 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Altitude makes it a long day!
Altitude makes it a long day!
Mike Hood 28 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Alex Munnery ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
james1978 ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with pam
with pam
Hidden 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Paperclip ??, 2013 Lead
with Myrte
with Myrte
Keith Lambley 8 Sep, 2012 -
with Karen W
with Karen W
Hidden 21 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
roberts1234567890 8 Aug, 2012 AltLd
with Rebecca Murray
with Rebecca Murray
Hidden 2 Aug, 2012 -
Hidden 2 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
tomhull 2 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S excellent, lead the crux pitch, got blasted briefly by hail then had a sunny adventurous descent.
with matt harris
excellent, lead the crux pitch, got blasted briefly by hail then had a sunny adventurous descent.
with matt harris
Hidden 2 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
ripper ?Jun, 2012 AltLd dnf Only got as far as the spiral terrace after major route-finding difficulties below (found Classic Dolomite Climbs line to be correct, Dolomites East/West very misleading). So late arriving at the terrace that we decided it was best to bail. Will be back!
with Lyness, Pierce, Matt Chap
Only got as far as the spiral terrace after major route-finding difficulties below (found Classic Dolomite Climbs line to be correct, Dolomites East/West very misleading). So late arriving at the terrace that we decided it was best to bail. Will be back!
with Lyness, Pierce, Matt Chap
tcn_2002 26 Sep, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 25 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Peter Holder 31 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Loose rock on the easier pitches. The finger crack had great gear and solid rock. Wet overhang pitch and final top out pitch (from the right) felt like the cruxes. Ab Ring was covered in snow so we took 3 50m abs down to the ledge. Halfway down the second ab a rock flew down from the top and smacked me in the face as I was looking up.
with Josh Legg
Loose rock on the easier pitches. The finger crack had great gear and solid rock. Wet overhang pitch and final top out pitch (from the right) felt like the cruxes. Ab Ring was covered in snow so we took 3 50m abs down to the ledge. Halfway down the second ab a rock flew down from the top and smacked me in the face as I was looking up.
with Josh Legg
josh william legg ?May, 2011 Lead Ab point at the top of the tower was under alot off snow, so we had a scary descent down the route we had just climbed, but still back for tea!
Ab point at the top of the tower was under alot off snow, so we had a scary descent down the route we had just climbed, but still back for tea!
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 12 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Huge thunderstorm struck as I was finishing the traverse pitch under the roof before the mid-height ledge, pretty scary!
Huge thunderstorm struck as I was finishing the traverse pitch under the roof before the mid-height ledge, pretty scary!
Hidden 12 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
skeight88 ?Jul, 2010 2nd
givemetea 27 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S fabulous roof pitch
with rd20
fabulous roof pitch
with rd20
rd20 27 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Direct Finish. Roslyn led crux pitch 5+ (finger crack and overhang) RD ran pitches 11 and 12 (5) together
Direct Finish. Roslyn led crux pitch 5+ (finger crack and overhang) RD ran pitches 11 and 12 (5) together
Hidden 26 Aug, 2009 2nd
Hidden 12 Aug, 2009 AltLd
jimdanson 12 Aug, 2009 AltLd Route gets better the higher you go. Direct finish is well worth it at the same sort of grade. The downclimbing is scary but steady away.
Route gets better the higher you go. Direct finish is well worth it at the same sort of grade. The downclimbing is scary but steady away.
twoplates 12 Aug, 2009 2nd
with Dan M, Jim Danson
with Dan M, Jim Danson
whistler 27 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S very high! complex descent!
very high! complex descent!
Anna_wells ?Jul, 2009 -
Richard Gilbert 30 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Great climb, awkward descent. Jerry led the finger crack pitch from the Spiral Ledge - lovely stuff.
with Jerry Ostrowski
Great climb, awkward descent. Jerry led the finger crack pitch from the Spiral Ledge - lovely stuff.
with Jerry Ostrowski
Dave Rumney 8 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
with James McDowall
with James McDowall
Neil McA 15 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S Pleasant route, mainly severe to VS with a significant HVS crux pitch
with Pete Cole
Pleasant route, mainly severe to VS with a significant HVS crux pitch
with Pete Cole
paul79 ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
decs 18 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S A bit wet low down. Great mountain day.
with Sam Hawkins
A bit wet low down. Great mountain day.
with Sam Hawkins
Kopo ??, 2008 -
with Olli
with Olli
John HW 10 Jul, 2007 AltLd A fantastic route, very scary descent down an ice filled couloir, complete with a TV sized block falling down it. Head torch descent - only had one between us as I had left mine at the bottom of the crag in my daysack. Cold pizza for dinner again!
with Cath
A fantastic route, very scary descent down an ice filled couloir, complete with a TV sized block falling down it. Head torch descent - only had one between us as I had left mine at the bottom of the crag in my daysack. Cold pizza for dinner again!
with Cath
Euan Strachan 10 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
WB 4 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
FrankW 17 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with Joe
with Joe
John HW 15 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S The descent from the top of the third tower is over unstable rock. The final gully was ice filled and a lot of rock followed us down scary at times.
with Cath
The descent from the top of the third tower is over unstable rock. The final gully was ice filled and a lot of rock followed us down scary at times.
with Cath
alpinist63 25 Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
DermotShiels 5 Jul, 2005 -
chris wyatt ?Aug, 2004 AltLd rpt
with Gareth Tucker
with Gareth Tucker
Hidden 29 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
akhughes ?Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
with Steptoe
andyb211 ?May, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Dave Barron
with Dave Barron
tjekel ??, 2000 -
awhitta1 ?Oct, 1999 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 1997 AltLd
IanD353 ?Jul, 1989 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Aug, 1988 AltLd O/S
bobelvedere 10 Jul, 1981 AltLd
with Niels Ole Bernsen
with Niels Ole Bernsen
dtalbot ?Jun, 1979 AltLd Sad that the next day a Brit was killed on this route.
with Rory O'Conor
Sad that the next day a Brit was killed on this route.
with Rory O'Conor
Rob Davies 13 Aug, 1977 AltLd Climbed as 2 pairs. Tangled up with other parties, got off route, rope stuck on last abseil, so very slow. Rope retrieved next day. Pitch above big ledge was hard in big boots, i.e. A0 in places
with Laurie Gardiner, Charles Kinniburgh, David Kinniburgh
Climbed as 2 pairs. Tangled up with other parties, got off route, rope stuck on last abseil, so very slow. Rope retrieved next day. Pitch above big ledge was hard in big boots, i.e. A0 in places
with Laurie Gardiner, Charles Kinniburgh, David Kinniburgh
Falko 1 Aug, 1973 Lead O/S
with TRE
with TRE
eroica64 ?Jul, 1971 AltLd c2,000 feet top to bottom. 4.5 - 5 hours.
with Stephen Carrot, Ron Hardaker, Roger Everett
c2,000 feet top to bottom. 4.5 - 5 hours.
with Stephen Carrot, Ron Hardaker, Roger Everett
Seymore Butt ??, 1966 AltLd
with John Whitfield
with John Whitfield
jcw ??, 1966 - Twice, 1966 and 1967
Twice, 1966 and 1967
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Voting
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set