Rockfax Description
II, 220m. A great route if you like your climbing traditional.
Approach - From the Montenvers train, take the lower of the two paths (the one that doesn't go via 'Le Signal') heading towards the 'Plan de l'Aiguille'. Follow this for 45 minutes until it meets up again with the higher path at a signpost. (NOTE - this sign says that Montenvers is 1 hour 10 minutes away via both paths. The reality (for when you're descending) is that the higher path takes about that long but the lower path will have you back to the train in a little over 30 minutes).
From the signpost, continue towards the Plan de l'Aiguille for 300m until a vague path leads off left, directly towards the Aiguille de l'M, just before the main path descends slightly. The vague path climbs for 10 minutes and then reaches a boulderfield. Continue straight across this and then begin to look for the cairns which mark the way. Follow the path as best you can (not easily done) as it takes you onto and up the long scree slope below the peak. The vague path from here is rarely clear and at times it may feel easier just to plough on up the scree slope, picking the easiest looking line and heading straight for the foot of the route. Even if you do manage to follow the path, the approach is unavoidably a bit of a grind, but this is mountaineering - it's all part of the 'fun'! Once you reach the foot of the ridge, scramble up easily to a ledge 5m below the bottom of the slab on the first pitch.
1) 4c, 25m. From the ledge, scramble up to the slab and rock over onto it. Follow a crack out right and then come back left more easily to belay beneath a wide chimney.
2) 5b, 45m. Climb easily up to the left of the chimney to reach a ledge. (There is a belay on the right of the ledge if you want to split the pitch but, provided you manage your gear and avoid rope drag, it's better to carry on.) Go to the far side of the ledge and climb the steep wall on the far side of it, clipping a couple of pegs on the way. Step left at the top onto a slab. Cross the slab leftwards and get onto the ridge crest to belay at a block just to the left of a large flat terrace.
3) 5b, 25m. Go onto the north side of the ridge and climb the staggeringly polished corner-crack. This has been the scene of many undignified scrabbles and is one of the classic pitches in Chamonix. Whether you enjoy it much will depend on your tastes but you certainly won't forget it in a hurry. A couple of big cams will ease the pain and there is also a peg on the left wall near the end. Belay at the top on a ledge in the shade.
4) 4c, 30m. Climb the chimney and twin cracks above the belay and then step onto the slab on the right. Climb this for 4m then come back left and head up the thrutchy open groove. Above this, 10m of easy ground leads to a ledge at the foot of a short, steep wall.
5) 5b, 25m. Instead of climbing the cracks directly above the belay, follow the ledge to its leftmost end and head up the crack there, which is marked by some pegs. Above this, go up a layback crack and then cross a slab rightwards easily to belay beneath a chimney with two chockstones in it.
6) 4c, 20m. Climb through the chimney onto the north face by passing between the chockstones. This may involve taking your rucksack off and those of a more 'powerful' build might not fit even without a pack! Once through the chimney, cross a ledge on the north face and belay beneath easy ground.
7) 3c, 50m. Climb the easy ground just right of the ridge crest and then get onto the crest itself and follow this to the summit.
Descent - From the summit, scramble back along the route for 15m to reach a pair of bolts which face east. Make a 25m abseil from these down to a large ledge with a narrow slot between two huge blocks on the right (when facing down). Walk through this slot, which has an awkward chockstone at the far end. Then scramble back around underneath the ledge the abseil took you to via a short, steep step and then an easier, slabby chimney. The steep step could be abseiled but there are no anchors in place so you will need to leave some abseil tat. From the foot of the chimney, go down and left to reach the top of a slab. Make a 25m abseil down this from a cord around a jammed block and then make a final 20m abseil down to the Col Blanc. From here, downclimb the gully leading back to the foot of the route. Until late summer this will be snow and is roughly 40 degrees at the top, so take crampons and an ice axe. When dry it is an easy but occasionally loose scramble. From the foot of the route, descend the approach path. © Rockfax

A. Contamine 24/Aug/1948

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif

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UserDateNotes
Phil_Brock 6 Aug Show βeta
βeta: No need for big cams for offwidth - plenty of pegs, fixed gear and other cracks to put gear in.
 
Show beta
βeta: No need for big cams for offwidth - plenty of pegs, fixed gear and other cracks to put gear in.
GGD 28 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, amazing climbing, never desperate but interest on every pitch. Enjoy as a solid HVS leader, although cruxes can all be guerilla aided on fixed pro. For descent via Col de la Buche take Crampons and Axes as couloir (PD) can be treacherous late in the day with rockfall and wet snow. Approximate grades for UK leader are: P1 - VS 4c P2 - HVS 5b (if intermediate belay is not used) P3 - HVS 5b P4 - HVS 5a/b P5 - VS 5a P6 - Ungradable P7 - VDiff
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, amazing climbing, never desperate but interest on every pitch. Enjoy as a solid HVS leader, although cruxes can all be guerilla aided on fixed pro. For descent via Col de la Buche take Crampons and Axes as couloir (PD) can be treacherous late in the day with rockfall and wet snow. Approximate grades for UK leader are: P1 - VS 4c P2 - HVS 5b (if intermediate belay is not used) P3 - HVS 5b P4 - HVS 5a/b P5 - VS 5a P6 - Ungradable P7 - VDiff
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
speculoos 24 Sep -
edurand13 22 Sep -
Small and weak 29 Aug AltLd
with Ed Hutchings
with Ed Hutchings
Phil_Brock 5 Aug AltLd Approached from Montenvers, good path to base of route if you go the right way. Paused to wait out a hail storm at base of route but weather then cleared. French freed one of the offwidth moves (on lead) to save time. Descended via Col de Bucle - good path down this gully of you stay left and scramble down rather than going into loose central section. Glacier moraine worst bit of the descent.
Approached from Montenvers, good path to base of route if you go the right way. Paused to wait out a hail storm at base of route but weather then cleared. French freed one of the offwidth moves (on lead) to save time. Descended via Col de Bucle - good path down this gully of you stay left and scramble down rather than going into loose central section. Glacier moraine worst bit of the descent.
deruiter14 20 Jul Lead O/S
Giles Eperon 14 Jul AltLd O/S Very fun route with a bit of everything. Led P2,3,5, 6. Wide crack nowhere near as bad as expected - you don't have to do any offwidth stuff, holds everywhere. No big cams needed due to pins and fixed nuts (and if you do, they're #5s not 4s...).
Very fun route with a bit of everything. Led P2,3,5, 6. Wide crack nowhere near as bad as expected - you don't have to do any offwidth stuff, holds everywhere. No big cams needed due to pins and fixed nuts (and if you do, they're #5s not 4s...).
QuentinSu 9 Jul Lead G/U
Hidden 27 Jun AltLd
James Milton 27 Jun AltLd O/S Lead the offwidth pitches, amazing climbing. Descent didn't go well and missed the train
Lead the offwidth pitches, amazing climbing. Descent didn't go well and missed the train
dajames90 23 Jun -
with Sam Davis
with Sam Davis
Hidden 8 Jun AltLd
samcd96 ?? -
Hidden 19 Jul, 2018 2nd
sroelants 9 Jul, 2018 -
lanky ?Jul, 2018 AltLd walked up from planards
with Pete
walked up from planards
with Pete
Stuart Johnston 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Quality and not as hard as the book makes out. Descent to nantillons glacier also fine. Gully full of snow. Ladders require a good head for heights.
with Lara Kesterton
Quality and not as hard as the book makes out. Descent to nantillons glacier also fine. Gully full of snow. Ladders require a good head for heights.
with Lara Kesterton
Shea 25 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Absolute slog of a walk in from montenvers with snow, took about 3 hours to get in. Got the lead that crack pitch, had to leave the backpack on a ledge halfway up just to have a chance! Had a very peaceful moment at the top when we were able to watch the last train depart, however the snow plod up paid out dividends when we got to ass slide nearly the whole way out. A grand adventure. A very 'traditional' route...
with Mark Riley
Absolute slog of a walk in from montenvers with snow, took about 3 hours to get in. Got the lead that crack pitch, had to leave the backpack on a ledge halfway up just to have a chance! Had a very peaceful moment at the top when we were able to watch the last train depart, however the snow plod up paid out dividends when we got to ass slide nearly the whole way out. A grand adventure. A very 'traditional' route...
with Mark Riley
wilkinscl 6 Sep, 2017 AltLd The wide crack is a bit of a horror show.
with morpcat
The wide crack is a bit of a horror show.
with morpcat
morpcat 6 Sep, 2017 AltLd Intense
Intense
steve_gibbs 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Max Meyer
with Max Meyer
gscw 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd Stayed at hotel on way down as we missed the train and enjoyed the pints too much!
with Simon
Stayed at hotel on way down as we missed the train and enjoyed the pints too much!
with Simon
Tony Myers 22 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
watson.b 22 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Michael 18 Aug, 2017 -
pete1993 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd walked from the valley, really good, i now see what they mean by 'traditional'! wouldn't say polished just smooth granite. not the easiest description to follow to get down, overall ace day
walked from the valley, really good, i now see what they mean by 'traditional'! wouldn't say polished just smooth granite. not the easiest description to follow to get down, overall ace day
j.buckley87 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Jun, 2017 AltLd
ndraper1 23 Apr, 2017 Lead snow made the approach quicker than normal so a good option in spring(1 hr 30/45 from the midi). Snow and ice on ledges to help with gripping that polished ramp and the corner above. Some nice 'intro to granite-moves' follow. Rapped back from the box to make the train. Bon position.
snow made the approach quicker than normal so a good option in spring(1 hr 30/45 from the midi). Snow and ice on ledges to help with gripping that polished ramp and the corner above. Some nice 'intro to granite-moves' follow. Rapped back from the box to make the train. Bon position.
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Siongethinhill 2 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Adam Martin
with Adam Martin
furbrow 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Great rock climbing on route but the way across the moraine from the Plan in late season is dire. May be worth asking at the Guides office about taking the Balcon then up or going via Montenvers. Also the Letter box is not to be underestimated.
with Bruce McC
Great rock climbing on route but the way across the moraine from the Plan in late season is dire. May be worth asking at the Guides office about taking the Balcon then up or going via Montenvers. Also the Letter box is not to be underestimated.
with Bruce McC
matty123 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Petarghh 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 10 Jul, 2016 AltLd
climbingrick 28 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Joe Farnell
with Joe Farnell
Gumery 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Patrik, Alex Marchant
with Patrik, Alex Marchant
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
Chuck 12 Sep, 2015 Lead
with Ellie Martin, Adam Martin
with Ellie Martin, Adam Martin
hlegge 22 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Really fun enjoyable and fairly easy climbing
with Alfie Maun
Really fun enjoyable and fairly easy climbing
with Alfie Maun
Alfie Maun 22 Aug, 2015 AltLd
with Hamish Legge
with Hamish Legge
aljones91 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd Awesome route with a tough crux!! Every different type of climbing you can imagine, from granite finger cracks too off widths too chimneys it's got it all. Abbed straight back down the route (much quicker and safer)
with Ben hester
Awesome route with a tough crux!! Every different type of climbing you can imagine, from granite finger cracks too off widths too chimneys it's got it all. Abbed straight back down the route (much quicker and safer)
with Ben hester
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 2nd
Adamski1986 5 Aug, 2015 AltLd
with James Higgins
with James Higgins
Hidden 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
jogle03 16 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Andy Lagan 12 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
bryan p 2 Jul, 2015 -
with Bruce
with Bruce
Brucemacrosson ?Jul, 2015 AltLd D- 5b trad
with Bryan Rhinn
D- 5b trad
with Bryan Rhinn
Hidden 26 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
alexm198 26 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Cool route. Led evens. Long slogs in and out!
Cool route. Led evens. Long slogs in and out!
Hidden ??, 2015 -
walts4 ??, 2015 -
Happy Wanderer 23 Sep, 2014 AltLd dog Glaciers totally retreated and route direct across from mid station very difficult at Nantillion 'glacier.' Best to head along Balcon Nord and head up direct to L'M. Route a tough HVS with polished granite. Some in situ pegs but friends and nuts needed.
with MD
Glaciers totally retreated and route direct across from mid station very difficult at Nantillion 'glacier.' Best to head along Balcon Nord and head up direct to L'M. Route a tough HVS with polished granite. Some in situ pegs but friends and nuts needed.
with MD
MD 23 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Debbie Lee 30 Aug, 2014 AltLd
with MrRiley
with MrRiley
Hidden 30 Aug, 2014 -
MrRiley 30 Aug, 2014 AltLd Long walk across the moraine, very cold and damp start to the climbing then got off route in the continuation groove above the off-width due to missing the short traverse. Ended up walking back to Cham!
with Lachy Low, Debbie Lee
Long walk across the moraine, very cold and damp start to the climbing then got off route in the continuation groove above the off-width due to missing the short traverse. Ended up walking back to Cham!
with Lachy Low, Debbie Lee
Gawyllie ?Aug, 2014 AltLd
Little AndyH ?Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Willythegreat ?Aug, 2014 AltLd Big walk in and out. From mer de glacé!
Big walk in and out. From mer de glacé!
DigitalSteak 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Led 1,3,5,7. Solid VS. Crux very polished and thrutchy but some inelegant shuffling gets you up.
Led 1,3,5,7. Solid VS. Crux very polished and thrutchy but some inelegant shuffling gets you up.
peakcaver ??, 2014 -
Ly-Cilph 14 Sep, 2013 AltLd dnf Snow, snow, and more snow everywhere... bypassed the snowy slab of P1, backed off at the top of P4 due to yet more snow. Lovely climb though!
with Barry S
Snow, snow, and more snow everywhere... bypassed the snowy slab of P1, backed off at the top of P4 due to yet more snow. Lovely climb though!
with Barry S
Hidden 13 Aug, 2013 Lead
garethsteel 13 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 5 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Palindrome 5 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
tommytuffa ?Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Libby
with Libby
jcw ??, 2013 -
Tobias at Home ??, 2013 -
Droyd 18 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Mark Challoner
with Mark Challoner
Sam Cooke 18 Sep, 2012 AltLd dnf
Hidden 18 Sep, 2012 AltLd dnf
markfairbank 11 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Climbed as 6 pitches, after linking 1&2. I led 1,2,3,5 and 7. Climbing was good although we got stuck behind slower parties above. Approached from the Plan but crossing Nantillions glacier was miserable and dangerous (not recommended). The off-width p4 is probably worth UK 4b/4c, much easier with rock boots. Just made the last lift from the Plan with a quick march return along the bottom path :)
Climbed as 6 pitches, after linking 1&2. I led 1,2,3,5 and 7. Climbing was good although we got stuck behind slower parties above. Approached from the Plan but crossing Nantillions glacier was miserable and dangerous (not recommended). The off-width p4 is probably worth UK 4b/4c, much easier with rock boots. Just made the last lift from the Plan with a quick march return along the bottom path :)
Mountain Llama 11 Sep, 2012 AltLd Lead P4 and 6
with Mark F
Lead P4 and 6
with Mark F
claregardiner 6 Sep, 2012 AltLd Led crux pitch
Led crux pitch
Hidden 10 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
caradoc 8 Aug, 2012 AltLd Awkward climbing that was made harder by the weight of crampons and ice axes we should have left at the glacier. Look for ladders on the approach from the Plan. It can be approached without crampons lower down. Unpleasant descent down gully, left side is better. 3 abbs from top using single 50m, downclimbing would be harder than grade 2.
with john b
Awkward climbing that was made harder by the weight of crampons and ice axes we should have left at the glacier. Look for ladders on the approach from the Plan. It can be approached without crampons lower down. Unpleasant descent down gully, left side is better. 3 abbs from top using single 50m, downclimbing would be harder than grade 2.
with john b
Aaron Lines ?Aug, 2012 AltLd
with stu
with stu
CurlyStevo ?Aug, 2012 AltLd gets D+ overall and F5b for the off width pitch now. awesome route. We did it from the train to montenvers. The descent down the morain was very loose and dangerous in its self without the rockfall also comming down from above.
with Kenny
gets D+ overall and F5b for the off width pitch now. awesome route. We did it from the train to montenvers. The descent down the morain was very loose and dangerous in its self without the rockfall also comming down from above.
with Kenny
bigbobbyking 30 Jun, 2012 Lead Nice route, although offwidth corner is hardest 4c in the world! Almost fell off it. Horrible. Maybe I'm just no good at offwidths. Dan forgot his climbing shoes so seconded the whole thing, allowing me to lead. Massive black clouds threatened rain, but somehow we escaped.
with Dan Guest
Nice route, although offwidth corner is hardest 4c in the world! Almost fell off it. Horrible. Maybe I'm just no good at offwidths. Dan forgot his climbing shoes so seconded the whole thing, allowing me to lead. Massive black clouds threatened rain, but somehow we escaped.
with Dan Guest
Hidden 24 Jun, 2012 2nd
R_W_M 21 Jun, 2012 -
with Harry
with Harry
Hidden 21 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Ross Davidson 21 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S In big boots, 2 points of aid
In big boots, 2 points of aid
Whitty2012 31 May, 2012 Lead dnf
with Peter Heath, Ian_Whitfield
with Peter Heath, Ian_Whitfield
Hidden 31 May, 2012 -
Joegriff ??, 2012 AltLd dnf
with Dave Trueman
with Dave Trueman
_hs_ ??, 2012 AltLd
Binder 25 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Good fun though a pretty tough crux corner pitch. Plus nearly got killed by a rock fall crossing the glacier on the way back to the lift.
with Chris L
Good fun though a pretty tough crux corner pitch. Plus nearly got killed by a rock fall crossing the glacier on the way back to the lift.
with Chris L
Hidden 24 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Liam Ingram 6 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Well 'ard! May have pulled on some in situ stuff.
Well 'ard! May have pulled on some in situ stuff.
Roberttaylor 6 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Top route, we were the only party on it.
Top route, we were the only party on it.
Poco Loco 4 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Great route, swapping leads with DL. Several groups on it, but no one moving too slowly. The interesting "marble" corner pitch is a little more difficult than it looks from the bottom, tons of in-situ though.
with R. Horler, BALD EAGLE
Great route, swapping leads with DL. Several groups on it, but no one moving too slowly. The interesting "marble" corner pitch is a little more difficult than it looks from the bottom, tons of in-situ though.
with R. Horler, BALD EAGLE
Karl Wooffindin 4 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Moved together until the crux then switched to alternate leads. Another good climb.
with Ollie Hemstock
Moved together until the crux then switched to alternate leads. Another good climb.
with Ollie Hemstock
Hidden 4 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 4 Aug, 2011 AltLd
with J.Pomeroy
with J.Pomeroy
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Lenny 13 Jul, 2011 AltLd dnf
with Paul
with Paul
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 2nd
mikespooner 24 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
gooberman-hill 3 Jun, 2011 Lead Dan's first alpine route. Walked up from the valley, breaking trail through waist deep snow above the Balcon. Started climbing at 3pm, made it to the top, then abbed down the Couzy in the last of the light. Back to the valley at 1am
with Dan Lear
Dan's first alpine route. Walked up from the valley, breaking trail through waist deep snow above the Balcon. Started climbing at 3pm, made it to the top, then abbed down the Couzy in the last of the light. Back to the valley at 1am
with Dan Lear
DanLear 2 Jun, 2011 2nd
with Steve Gooberman-Hill
with Steve Gooberman-Hill
masa-alpin 7 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S Completed it in 3 and half hours. P3 was partly covered with snow - had to stamp on snow with climbing shoes. Saw no one except for rescue people doing training. Nice and compact summit!
with Max C
Completed it in 3 and half hours. P3 was partly covered with snow - had to stamp on snow with climbing shoes. Saw no one except for rescue people doing training. Nice and compact summit!
with Max C
carlh ?Aug, 2010 Lead A fantastic day out. Did the HVS direct finish. Andy struggled to make it back for the last Gondala, but just made it! We managed to keep to the guidbook time and moved well throughout the day as a group of five (a 2 and a 3)
A fantastic day out. Did the HVS direct finish. Andy struggled to make it back for the last Gondala, but just made it! We managed to keep to the guidbook time and moved well throughout the day as a group of five (a 2 and a 3)
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 Lead
Stone Muppet ?Jul, 2010 Lead O/S VS wouldn't be unfair for the offwidth, but I don't see what this fuss is about polish, it's fine!
with ts
VS wouldn't be unfair for the offwidth, but I don't see what this fuss is about polish, it's fine!
with ts
knicos ?Jul, 2010 AltLd
with James Chesmer, metcalmd02
with James Chesmer, metcalmd02
Hidden 6 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
oldgrey ?Jun, 2010 - We did this route up L'M after finding the Couzy route iced up. Lovely climb with a descent that involves abseils, glacier travel and ladders...
with Virgil Scott
We did this route up L'M after finding the Couzy route iced up. Lovely climb with a descent that involves abseils, glacier travel and ladders...
with Virgil Scott
Guy Wilson ??, 2010 -
roryifinlay 29 Sep, 2009 AltLd
with Gary Connor, Dave Chalmers
with Gary Connor, Dave Chalmers
wheelsucker ?Sep, 2009 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2009 -
reima ?Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Polished and crowded. There are so many better routes around... The wide crack was fun though.
with Nora, Niamh
Polished and crowded. There are so many better routes around... The wide crack was fun though.
with Nora, Niamh
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 -
SWalls 27 Jul, 2009 AltLd
with Che Gannarelli
with Che Gannarelli
cmsg 27 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Steve
with Steve
Hidden 15 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Rob84 5 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Chris James
with Chris James
Bruveris ?Jul, 2009 AltLd
JonHarvey ?Jul, 2009 AltLd rpt
with Jay Jackson, Jayne Bulbeck
with Jay Jackson, Jayne Bulbeck
benclimbing ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Phil Belcher
with Phil Belcher
kleinej 21 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S Fun little climb, felt roughly HS although the cracks above the terrace before the letterbox were a little difficult for some...
with rd20
Fun little climb, felt roughly HS although the cracks above the terrace before the letterbox were a little difficult for some...
with rd20
rd20 21 Aug, 2008 AltLd RD led long chimney pitch (in fact a huge corner crack), fell on twin crack pitch, but did final pitch (left hand variation IV)
with kleinej
RD led long chimney pitch (in fact a huge corner crack), fell on twin crack pitch, but did final pitch (left hand variation IV)
with kleinej
Loic_Menzies ?Aug, 2008 -
with Brian Leite
with Brian Leite
Franco Cookson OLD 29 Jul, 2008 Solo O/S simmmuuuu
simmmuuuu
Hidden 25 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2008 -
tim20 ??, 2008 -
dan gibson 25 Aug, 2007 Lead rpt
with sam read
with sam read
tom.e 5 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2007 AltLd
Glyn ?Jul, 2007 - Found quite hard. Took long time and missed last cable car and last bus back to campsite
with Trystan and Perry
Found quite hard. Took long time and missed last cable car and last bus back to campsite
with Trystan and Perry
Hidden ?Jul, 2007 AltLd
davepc ?Jul, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 24 Jun, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 21 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
31770 18 Jun, 2007 AltLd alternate finish out left where you'd go through the squeeze probably VS ish (though felt hard in big boots / rucksack)
alternate finish out left where you'd go through the squeeze probably VS ish (though felt hard in big boots / rucksack)
Hidden 18 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
with long
with long
Hidden ?Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
featuresforfeet ?Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Steve
with Steve
gripped01 ?Aug, 2006 Lead
with Dan Graves
with Dan Graves
Andy Clarke 25 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S My first rock route on the Cham Aiguilles. Very enjoyable. Even the mirror finish corner pitch was great fun!
with James
My first rock route on the Cham Aiguilles. Very enjoyable. Even the mirror finish corner pitch was great fun!
with James
Chris Davids 15 Jul, 2006 AltLd dog From the mid station of the Aiguille du Midi cable-car. Very hard work on a hot day. Return via the normal route.
From the mid station of the Aiguille du Midi cable-car. Very hard work on a hot day. Return via the normal route.
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 AltLd
dmoir ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Jon Harvey and Mike Maben
with Jon Harvey and Mike Maben
frost ?Jul, 2006 Solo
PTatts ?Jul, 2006 Lead
with JTatts
with JTatts
JonHarvey ?Jul, 2006 AltLd Fantastic climbing ,, bit polished in places ,, great day ,,, just about made last cable car!
with David Moir and Michael Maben
Fantastic climbing ,, bit polished in places ,, great day ,,, just about made last cable car!
with David Moir and Michael Maben
ashpreston ??, 2006 -
liz j ?Sep, 2005 2nd
with neil brodie
with neil brodie
dmorgan27 3 Aug, 2005 Lead
with Terryl
with Terryl
hal ?Jul, 2005 -
Kyuzo ?Jul, 2005 Lead
David Horwood 21 Jun, 2005 -
Yyonnx 19 Jun, 2005 AltLd A good day out, except that the thunderstorm and lightening show stopped our descent and thus another hike down into the valley after the last train from Montenvers had departed.
with Tom Fralich
A good day out, except that the thunderstorm and lightening show stopped our descent and thus another hike down into the valley after the last train from Montenvers had departed.
with Tom Fralich
fizzy_elephant ?Jun, 2005 AltLd
with Rob Williams
with Rob Williams
SteveM 22 Aug, 2004 AltLd
Mark A Humphries 11 Aug, 2004 AltLd O/S I led the crux off-width pitch and it certainly felt harder than 4b climbing! I cant think of any HS climbers who could manage it...then again, maybe im just a big girls blouse! Awesome route and a great day out.
with Rob Harper
I led the crux off-width pitch and it certainly felt harder than 4b climbing! I cant think of any HS climbers who could manage it...then again, maybe im just a big girls blouse! Awesome route and a great day out.
with Rob Harper
Will Gordon ?Aug, 2004 AltLd O/S Approached from overnight bivi below, great rock route. Caught in sudden storm at the top and had difficulty finding start of ab descent in poor vis. Nantillions glacier was like a bowling alley with rockfall and ice from serac collapse from Grand Charmoz.
with Rich
Approached from overnight bivi below, great rock route. Caught in sudden storm at the top and had difficulty finding start of ab descent in poor vis. Nantillions glacier was like a bowling alley with rockfall and ice from serac collapse from Grand Charmoz.
with Rich
Marcell ?Aug, 2004 -
Danhan ?Jul, 2004 AltLd
andybuckley ?Jul, 2004 AltLd
with Danhan
with Danhan
John Andrew Simpson ?Jun, 2004 2nd dog
with Alex Lai
with Alex Lai
Tobias at Home ??, 2004 -
akhughes ??, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
with Steptoe
rlrs ?Sep, 2003 AltLd
Antony Mariani ?Sep, 2003 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
with rlrs
Hidden 30 Jul, 2003 Lead
reg_measures 7 Jul, 2003 -
alpinismo.uk ?Jul, 2003 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2003 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
mike.moss ??, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Alex Cowan
with Alex Cowan
Mark Salter 17 Aug, 2002 AltLd
with Chris Shorrock
with Chris Shorrock
Hidden 28 Jul, 2002 AltLd
joe king ?Jun, 2002 AltLd O/S
with steve petit
with steve petit
Hidden ??, 2002 AltLd
clams ??, 2002 -
with AD
with AD
1202alarm ?Aug, 2001 -
Paul-Michael 30 Jul, 2001 AltLd O/S From Refuge du Plan. Diccon backed off the diedre/off width (he was wearing winter walking boots rather than mountaineering boots, or as some were shod in stickys). To finish, rather than go through the “Letter Box” I lead the direct finish 10m to summit VI,3 points of aid.
From Refuge du Plan. Diccon backed off the diedre/off width (he was wearing winter walking boots rather than mountaineering boots, or as some were shod in stickys). To finish, rather than go through the “Letter Box” I lead the direct finish 10m to summit VI,3 points of aid.
Cuillin Calling 30 Jul, 2001 AltLd
220bpm ?Aug, 2000 AltLd Downclimbed easily instead of abseiling. Still missed the last cable car down but prolly because we didn't start the route until 3pm!
with Dave
Downclimbed easily instead of abseiling. Still missed the last cable car down but prolly because we didn't start the route until 3pm!
with Dave
bladderedagain ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Climbster 12 Aug, 1999 AltLd O/S
with UTMC
with UTMC
Robinl100 ?Jul, 1999 AltLd O/S
with Paddy Muir
with Paddy Muir
nige pacer ?Jul, 1998 AltLd O/S
the abmmc ??, 1998 AltLd
with karly54
with karly54
Hidden ??, 1998 AltLd
Jim Walton 31 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
with Alison Bethal
with Alison Bethal
Hidden ??, 1996 -
Hidden 5 Sep, 1994 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 1994 Lead
craig h ?Aug, 1993 AltLd
with Jim Mellor
with Jim Mellor
kristian ?Aug, 1993 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 1993 Lead
auld al ?Jul, 1993 AltLd O/S with ken
with ken
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 1993 Solo
Ratfeeder ?Jun, 1993 AltLd O/S
with Ed
with Ed
Ken lindsay ??, 1993 AltLd O/S
with With Alan
with With Alan
djdavies 8 Aug, 1992 2nd
Pete_Frost ?Jul, 1992 AltLd O/S Done in big boots - a hilarious, well pegged offwidth.
with Luc Percival
Done in big boots - a hilarious, well pegged offwidth.
with Luc Percival
Hidden 29 Jun, 1992 AltLd O/S
Yourlead 28 Jun, 1992 2nd Thunderstom startedas we were desending and missed last cablecar back.
with Helen Penny, Graham Penny
Thunderstom startedas we were desending and missed last cablecar back.
with Helen Penny, Graham Penny
Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons 12 Jul, 1991 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Maclean
with Gavin Maclean
Hidden ??, 1991 -
bruce ??, 1991 -
with Matt Allan
with Matt Allan
colinthrelfall ??, 1991 -
with neil witts
with neil witts
Nick Rundall ??, 1990 AltLd O/S
with Dad
with Dad
Hidden 6 Aug, 1989 AltLd
michaelb1 ?Aug, 1989 AltLd
with Stell, troybison
with Stell, troybison
troybison ?Aug, 1989 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 1989 Lead
johnkeith ??, 1989 AltLd
with G. Callander
with G. Callander
BigHairyIan 5 Aug, 1988 AltLd O/S
pauldrew ?Jul, 1988 AltLd Walked up from valley - long walk-in.
with John Leeming
Walked up from valley - long walk-in.
with John Leeming
gallonj ?Jul, 1988 -
John Brayshaw 25 Jun, 1987 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 1986 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 1986 AltLd O/S
ill_bill ?Jul, 1986 - with Colin Lennox
with Colin Lennox
Lone Rider ??, 1986 -
John Marsland 8 Aug, 1985 -
with Dave Soles
with Dave Soles
Ali MacDonald 17 Jul, 1985 AltLd O/S Excellent day
with Spike Edwards
Excellent day
with Spike Edwards
Hammy 16 Jul, 1985 AltLd
with Colin Struthers, Jenny le Merle
with Colin Struthers, Jenny le Merle
andy tetsill ?Aug, 1984 AltLd
with Ian Bennet,, Joy
with Ian Bennet,, Joy
Robmwatt ??, 1984 AltLd
with Gaz Morgan
with Gaz Morgan
andy tetsill ?Aug, 1983 Lead
with Joy
with Joy
John Marsland ??, 1982 -
with Eduardo Martinez
with Eduardo Martinez
alpinist63 22 Jul, 1981 -
arduff ?Jul, 1981 -
with Chris Brown
with Chris Brown
Hidden ??, 1981 -
bobelvedere 18 Aug, 1980 Lead
with Lene Vestergaard
with Lene Vestergaard
DonnyDave 15 Aug, 1980 AltLd Fantastic intro to the Alps.
with Mick Ward, Steve Sykes, Ian Freebie
Fantastic intro to the Alps.
with Mick Ward, Steve Sykes, Ian Freebie
Richard Weller ?Aug, 1980 -
with Richard White
with Richard White
Hidden ?Jul, 1980 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 1980 AltLd
Hidden ?Sep, 1979 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1979 AltLd
leland stamper ??, 1979 AltLd
with Hugh Grandfield
with Hugh Grandfield
Hidden 20 Jul, 1978 AltLd
Hidden 19 Jul, 1978 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 1977 AltLd
beaumap ?Aug, 1977 2nd
with Mick
with Mick
Darron ??, 1977 -
with Our kid, Dave Badd
with Our kid, Dave Badd
Andy Chubb 7 Jul, 1976 -
with Pete Coghill
with Pete Coghill
Bolt Phobia 6 Jul, 1975 AltLd rpt
with Kit Spencer
with Kit Spencer
Bolt Phobia 26 Aug, 1974 Lead
with Andrew Heuch
with Andrew Heuch
Nigel Bond 25 Aug, 1974 Lead Time 4hrs after a bivouac in the boulders below good route
with Dave Jolliffe
Time 4hrs after a bivouac in the boulders below good route
with Dave Jolliffe
pneame ?Jul, 1973 AltLd
with Eric Holligan
with Eric Holligan
Climbingspike ??, 1972 -
Andy Say ?Aug, 1970 Solo O/S
Martin Bennett 31 Jul, 1966 -
with CJE
with CJE
uphillnow ?Jul, 1963 AltLd Done several times, usually in bad weather
with Bill Burlton
Done several times, usually in bad weather
with Bill Burlton
Hidden ?Jul, 1959 Solo
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Voting
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
Votes cast 26
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set