90m, 3 pitches. A major climbing adventure, with a great first pitch and an absorbing continuation to the top of the quarry. A smattering of loose rock and the odd swathe of vegetation will need to be negotiated from P3 onwards. In particular, a cool head and some mountaineering experience (!) is required on the last pitch. It is possible to make an abseil retreat from out left of the original P2 belay, should the adventurous delights of the concluding pitches not appeal...

Pat Littlejohn, John Hammond, John Fowler 16/Jun/1968

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Chris Ebbutt 12 Jun 2nd First pitch only, ran out of daylight. Did the move past the top peg thinking I would be able to reach back to unclip but couldn’t, so had a back rope across to belay. Brilliant slab climbing, bold lead, pretty gripped on second. Managed to get the rope stuck abbing off so had to abb from the top to retrieve in the dark. From the small Holm oak tree/bush at the top of the slab just before the end of the descent path was a full 50m plus stretch plus long slings abseil to the ground.
with Laurence
First pitch only, ran out of daylight. Did the move past the top peg thinking I would be able to reach back to unclip but couldn’t, so had a back rope across to belay. Brilliant slab climbing, bold lead, pretty gripped on second. Managed to get the rope stuck abbing off so had to abb from the top to retrieve in the dark. From the small Holm oak tree/bush at the top of the slab just before the end of the descent path was a full 50m plus stretch plus long slings abseil to the ground.
with Laurence
Hidden 12 Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 2nd
andy_pemberton 18 Aug, 2013 Lead P1 only the absailed off. Even then it felt more like E2. Good moves but really bold. For a long way you either have not a lot of gear or are comletely reliant on one very old peg. Took some gardening and Sarah pulled off a decent sized lump. I won't be doing it again!
with Dave Marshall, Sarah Massey
P1 only the absailed off. Even then it felt more like E2. Good moves but really bold. For a long way you either have not a lot of gear or are comletely reliant on one very old peg. Took some gardening and Sarah pulled off a decent sized lump. I won't be doing it again!
with Dave Marshall, Sarah Massey
Hidden 13 Jun, 2011 AltLd
Dave Searle 13 Jun, 2011 AltLd twas a laugh. the last pitch was like climbing a drystone wall. think its the best multipitch E1 ive ever done. ;-)
with misterb
twas a laugh. the last pitch was like climbing a drystone wall. think its the best multipitch E1 ive ever done. ;-)
with misterb
Hidden 31 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 31 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 May, 2008 AltLd
Jon_Warner 15 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S Lead P1,P3. Def best to do this in 3 pitches. 1st pitch 5b. Thin, bold climbing above dubious gear and a long run out over a peg. But the climbing is brilliant, a 3 star pitch really. Rock is fairly solid, but pulled one or 2 bits off. 2nd Pitch (Tom) 5a. Dubious rock leading to a vegitated ledge. Take care not to throw stuff at your belayer as this was a very real possibility. The climbing once again was good, but loose rock often detracts from this. 3rd Pitch. A vegitated start leads to a steep headwall, dispite the rock looking (very) loose from below it is actually quite solid. Assuming the last pitch hasn't sh@t you up too much it is highly enjoyable!! Last few moves a bit loose. All in all what a route. A proper adventure. Aptly named!!!
with Tom
Lead P1,P3. Def best to do this in 3 pitches. 1st pitch 5b. Thin, bold climbing above dubious gear and a long run out over a peg. But the climbing is brilliant, a 3 star pitch really. Rock is fairly solid, but pulled one or 2 bits off. 2nd Pitch (Tom) 5a. Dubious rock leading to a vegitated ledge. Take care not to throw stuff at your belayer as this was a very real possibility. The climbing once again was good, but loose rock often detracts from this. 3rd Pitch. A vegitated start leads to a steep headwall, dispite the rock looking (very) loose from below it is actually quite solid. Assuming the last pitch hasn't sh@t you up too much it is highly enjoyable!! Last few moves a bit loose. All in all what a route. A proper adventure. Aptly named!!!
with Tom
alaan 17 Aug, 2007 AltLd dnf The first pitch is very good and probably worth two stars (take some tat to abb off a bolt and two peg) but after that pretty hairy! Sporadic rain, darkness and muddy, loose ledges culminated in our escape from the third(ish) belay.
with Rich
The first pitch is very good and probably worth two stars (take some tat to abb off a bolt and two peg) but after that pretty hairy! Sporadic rain, darkness and muddy, loose ledges culminated in our escape from the third(ish) belay.
with Rich
Justin T 4 Aug, 2007 Lead dnf Couldn't figure the move up into the scoop - very thin - interesting downclimb from there though!
with Cusco
Couldn't figure the move up into the scoop - very thin - interesting downclimb from there though!
with Cusco
richardr ?Aug, 2007 AltLd dnf The route description should include words like, exciting, suspect, botanical, earthen, cornice and perhaps even memorable! As Alans comments below, resonable climbing in the first half then deteriorates. The last pitch looked alright but couldn't get to it. When you end up climbing by headtorch you know somethings gone wrong!
The route description should include words like, exciting, suspect, botanical, earthen, cornice and perhaps even memorable! As Alans comments below, resonable climbing in the first half then deteriorates. The last pitch looked alright but couldn't get to it. When you end up climbing by headtorch you know somethings gone wrong!
ecowaller 22 Jul, 2007 Lead Did the whole route in 3 pitches, a little harrowing in places, Paula pulled a huge block out of the 4c pitch. The route in fact the whole wall) would benefit from a clean up and it would be a three star route.....come on get down there.
with Paula
Did the whole route in 3 pitches, a little harrowing in places, Paula pulled a huge block out of the 4c pitch. The route in fact the whole wall) would benefit from a clean up and it would be a three star route.....come on get down there.
with Paula
Hidden ?Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
climber sim ??, 2007 -
ecowaller ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with bunny, Paula, Wendy Sampson, Andy Reid
with bunny, Paula, Wendy Sampson, Andy Reid
leadmat ??, 1998 Lead
with Dr James Armstrong
with Dr James Armstrong
Derek Ryden 16 Jul, 1989 AltLd O/S
with Ron Buckley
with Ron Buckley
RichardMc 30 Apr, 1988 AltLd O/S
with Jon Clifford-Smith
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Dave Garnett 27 Jul, 1986 Lead O/S
with Jane Garnett
with Jane Garnett
Falko 31 Dec, 1974 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
with Howard Lancashire
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High HVS
Mid HVS
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Votes cast 7
High 5c
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Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
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Votes cast 6
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
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