Rockfax Description
The right-hand arete is a popular introduction to the crag. Start just left of the base of the arete.
Climb good cracks to ledges on the arete. From the upper ledge boldly climb the arete on its left side to a crack and follow this to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Patrick Moore 26/Aug/17 Lead dnf

Read Jelly Mould Surfer comment of 2014 re missing block. Top roped this route successfully July 2017. Decided to lead this route 26Aug2017 ..but concentrating on following arete failed to move left early enough. placed two BD Stoppers no 2 then tried to secure foot on base of missing block site for a higher move left. Fell off. Didn't deck, but 12-15m a-over-t fall from leg catching in rope - assorted injuries including Grade 2 Medial Collateral Ligament tear (splint & projected 2-3 month healing period).also ACL rupture ... I'll follow JMS route next time!

Hidden 20/Jul/17 2nd β
Patrick Moore 12/Jul/17 TR
Hidden 20/Jun/17 TR O/S
Josh Butler 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Kyle Whitehand
Tristan Sherlock 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Haigh
Jelly Mould Surfer 08/May/16 Lead rpt

Via the revised line - HVS 5a

JackM92 31/Mar/16 Solo O/S
dohart 28/Aug/15 TR O/S
with shunt
whiteexplorer 18/Jul/15 TR O/S
with joe
dready 18/Jul/15 TR O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 10/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Did the original line as far as standing in the little hole then made a long step left into the crack of Tourist Trap and up to the big pocket, from the bit hole traversed back right to rejoin the original Chien Line. This goes at HVS 5a

bigbear86 ?/May/15 TR
Jelly Mould Surfer 19/Apr/15 Lead rpt

First time since the epic on discovering the loss of arete. I stepped left early at the start of the old crux sequence and gained Sundare/Tourist Trap, climbed to the hole and then went back right above the hole. That line is probably VS 4c and worth a star or two

Hidden 19/Apr/15 2nd
JoeCoxson 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Kept to the original line as unaware of the rockfall, so effectively a solo up the still-loose arete. Gear was non-existent, and the climbing is more than 4c. An memory I wouldn't relive if you paid me. E3 sounds a fair shout for the experience ....

with Kristy Wallace, Luke Gorman
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Skip 12/Oct/14 TR rpt
with Ivan
Adrian Daniels 27/Sep/14 2nd
with John Parrott, Steve Webster
Steve Webster 27/Sep/14 Lead
riddle 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Stayed on the original route until level with the hole then traversed round the rack fall.

mikeyjbs 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
sdht 25/Jul/14 2nd
timreynolds 25/Jul/14 Lead

with bits of Sundare

EllieWoods 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with pete belfield
the mist 28/May/14 Lead O/S

lead the route stayed on the arete did not know part had fell off,bloody scary

Skip 04/May/14 2nd rpt
with Ivan
Jelly Mould Surfer 30/Mar/14 TR rpt

An important part of the arête is lost to the winter storms. Once I completed the original crux I discovered the runners and holds from here to top have gone. Now for intents and purposes a solo. Suggest once past the original crux (feet in the small pocket) make hard a step across to Sundare at about 5a. Holds and pro then available. Climb up to the hole and then traverse back to the original line of Chien. (Traverse can be made earlier with hands at the small pocket) To finish direct - at a guess E1 4c, E2 5a.

jaffshols 20/Aug/13 2nd dog

at high tide. I had a rest. after a pint, glad I did it

1202alarm 11/Aug/13 Lead
Jelly Mould Surfer 26/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Tala A 25/Jul/13 2nd O/S
maffujones 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with David Fisher
alexjz 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Easy but run out section is spicy.

with John Zalewski
Skip 09/Jun/13 TR rpt
with Ivan
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead
Hidden 25/May/13 TR
Ed morris 18/May/13 2nd O/S
with Colin
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
ian coe ?/May/13 2nd
with Richard, Chirstian Good
Jelly Mould Surfer 28/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd
Skip 02/Mar/13 TR rpt
Skip 30/Sep/12 TR O/S

Did alternative route by small traverse onto Sundare.

Jams Crwca 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Craig
tim exley 17/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with ben padbrury
Jelly Mould Surfer 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Top route, Definitely 4c, definitely HVS. A bit out there for a while.

Hidden ?/Sep/12 TR O/S
Bex_M 13/Aug/12 TR O/S
with Duncan Dunbar
alexjz 06/Aug/12 TR O/S

had to be lowered in from the top and top rope it as the tide was coming in

with Vincent Rang, Mark Zalewski
peter.ravenscroft27 15/Jul/12 Lead
with Jodie Bee
just one more 09/Jul/12 Lead
with Phil K
Okecroak 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with W. Frost
J.A.Thomson 28/Jun/12 2nd
with Hans
HansUDes 28/Jun/12 Lead O/S

climbed in the dark with headlight

Motown 19/May/12 Lead β
with Mike
nickstephens 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Just a little sparse on gear in the middle :-)

culmclimberRob 08/Mar/12 Solo
Jordon Fleming 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Carl Johnson 13/Jan/12 2nd O/S
Zeb 13/Nov/11 TR O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/11 2nd
Adam Booth 17/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Ellen Cobby 17/Sep/11 2nd
edmitchell 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/11 TR O/S
climbing_wiggy 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Dale
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Joey C 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
vertically_challenged 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S

nice climbing with run out gear.

Legs 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Warmed up with this great introduction to the crag. Last bits of gear is two nuts in the crack. Then the crux requires you to follow the arete up to the beginning of a new crack. I felt excellent when I was climbing, focusing on the moves and not on the run out!

with Macca
manwithacam 02/Jul/11 2nd
with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/11 2nd
Nick Wallis ?/May/11 Lead
with Laura
MatthParkinson 01/Apr/11 TR O/S

Easy on a top rope

with Chris Butler
chrisbutler 01/Apr/11 TR O/S
Luke Dawson ??/2011 TR O/S
Hidden 05/Dec/10 Lead
Ed morris 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S

led fast.

Haydn Jones 21/Nov/10 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Becca
BeccaSnowden 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Scarily run out at the crux. Probably a bit easier for the tall. Really good route.

with Tom
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd O/S
culmclimberRob 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Chad123 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Emily went a bit off route and ended up doing the E1 in the middle by mistake, nice link up though...

with Emily
Sam-westcott 04/Apr/10 -
with simon keenor
Bob Peters ?/Apr/10 -
MGrock ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
westong 12/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Marti999 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
briar4012 09/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Marti
Dave Thompson 10/May/09 2nd O/S
with Chris Mellor
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 TR O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
eley1 ?/Dec/07 Lead
with graham
prawn ?/Jun/07 2nd
with Graham
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Dan Shirley 23/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Dan Shirley 23/Mar/07 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Jul/06 -
Mark Davies PK 19/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Laura
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
rockpool ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with pol
duncan 19/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
Skip ?/May/05 TR O/S

Above my current grade, had a lot of assistance (very tight rope) from belayer, top rope. Hope to try again this summer.

Hidden 25/Mar/05 Lead
rockjedi12345 ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/04 2nd
drpeters ??/2004 -
Samuel P 17/Apr/03 2nd
with Luke, Gareth
Hidden ??/2003 TR
Bob M 09/Sep/02 Lead
with Richard Mott
Mark Kemball 16/Sep/01 Lead
with Nic Dill
Macca_7 30/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Bev Brody
Hidden 22/Aug/01 Solo
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
Roget 06/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with jim
andy_pemberton ??/2000 TR
with Louise Teal, Jonathon, Rik Meek
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/Oct/99 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 05/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
mikej 27/Aug/99 TR
with Mr Shunt
Simon cook ?/Apr/98 -
iskra2000 23/Aug/97 2nd
with John Dale
Hidden 30/May/97 Lead
kp64zl ?/Mar/97 2nd
with David Pickford
chris sm 15/Jan/97 2nd O/S
with Duncan DS
colin milton 20/Jul/96 2nd
with eric milton
Martin Bennett 27/Aug/95 -
with Paul Taylor
Hidden 07/May/95 -
auld al ?/May/95 AltLd O/S
eroica64 12/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Denis Crampton
alan moore ??/1993 -
Hidden 21/Jun/91 -
kp64zl ?/May/91 2nd
with Paul
Andy Say 27/Apr/91 Solo
Hidden 14/Apr/91 Lead O/S
Tom V 03/Apr/91 Lead
with Howie Darwin, Glenn Watson, John Burns
mark-abz 12/Aug/89 Lead
with Phill R
clark alston ?/May/89 Lead O/S
with Pete Bull
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 20
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set