20m.

Rockfax Description
A good route with a steep finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first of 5 full sports routes in the middle area of the crag. A direct line through 'Ladybird', and the start of 'Relax'. Fingery through the central section (try not to wander off into 'Great Expectations') and with a good finishing roof. Abseil station a few feet back from the top.

Alan Rosier 13/Aug/2007

Ticklists

Becky's ticklist, Rockfax South Wales Sandstone Graded List

Feedback

UserDateNotes
OliverR17 30 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Rock looks a bit flaky around an atypical LO, which also rotates... - worth some caution.
 
Show beta
βeta: Rock looks a bit flaky around an atypical LO, which also rotates... - worth some caution.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ryan_keith_thomas 6 Oct Lead O/S Really happy to get this; nice route. Roof was soaking which made it feel harder.
Really happy to get this; nice route. Roof was soaking which made it feel harder.
Oscar Popels 8 Sep Lead O/S A route without much of a crux. Soft perhaps?
with Kuang
A route without much of a crux. Soft perhaps?
with Kuang
Hidden 26 Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Jul Lead O/S
Ian Bell 21 Jul Lead rpt
tania 21 Jul Lead dog
Hidden 6 Jul Lead G/U
will_of_fortune 6 Jul Lead O/S
with wlin, Alastair Adams-Cairns, Alex Jakeman, Abi
with wlin, Alastair Adams-Cairns, Alex Jakeman, Abi
wlin 6 Jul Lead O/S pink; one Simond screwgate supplemented with a biner from Abi for lowering
with Abi
pink; one Simond screwgate supplemented with a biner from Abi for lowering
with Abi
MatWeale 5 Jul Lead O/S
Lukechandler 30 Jun Lead O/S
ljkenny 9 Jun Lead dog
mcd0well 9 Jun Lead RP
with ljkenny
with ljkenny
mcd0well 1 Jun Lead dog Thin crux and missed a hold up top. Strenuous but I think it might go...
with Danny
Thin crux and missed a hold up top. Strenuous but I think it might go...
with Danny
Stroppy 1 Jun Lead β
Ben Harper 1 Jun Lead O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Stickle Tarn 25 May Lead rpt
Max Lowry 4 May Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May 2nd dog
Daniel 4 May Lead O/S
Ignas Va 4 May Lead O/S
james n 4 May Lead O/S
with Lisa P
with Lisa P
OliverR17 30 Apr Lead dog Need to get stronger fingers for that crimp/use the other one.
with Krystal
Need to get stronger fingers for that crimp/use the other one.
with Krystal
Hidden 30 Apr Lead dog
Hidden 13 Apr Lead O/S
Ian Bell 13 Apr Lead O/S
Matt Clifton 13 Apr Lead
with Helen
with Helen
BenjaminLockie 10 Apr Lead dog Z clipped.
Z clipped.
johnhan310 7 Apr Lead β
dryvita 7 Apr Lead β great route - constantly interesting with a v thin crux for the grade.
great route - constantly interesting with a v thin crux for the grade.
adamsriches 7 Apr Lead rpt
with Jackie
with Jackie
Harrietbarford 7 Apr Lead RP
David Dickinson 7 Apr Lead O/S
with dryvita
with dryvita
Hidden 6 Apr Lead O/S
jordana86 ?Apr Lead RP
myrddinmuse 26 Mar Lead O/S On the very edge during the earlier crux. Second 'crux' much easier than it seems. Just got to commit, took me 3 attempts (was NOT willing to fall off at that point..).
with Joe Dinn, dkilner
On the very edge during the earlier crux. Second 'crux' much easier than it seems. Just got to commit, took me 3 attempts (was NOT willing to fall off at that point..).
with Joe Dinn, dkilner
dkilner 26 Mar TR Stiff middle section on crimps, ballsed the top sequence too. One to lead
Stiff middle section on crimps, ballsed the top sequence too. One to lead
WillCrabtree 25 Mar Lead O/S Really enjoyable climb and happy to get the onsite. Quite a fingery crux and technical end section, think it would be quite a lot easier after learning the moves. The bolt hangers at the top could do with looking at, both currently moving around in their holes.
Really enjoyable climb and happy to get the onsite. Quite a fingery crux and technical end section, think it would be quite a lot easier after learning the moves. The bolt hangers at the top could do with looking at, both currently moving around in their holes.
countchalkula 24 Mar Lead O/S
Martina Gola 25 Feb Lead β
OliverR17 22 Feb Lead dnf Fell at techy section in top half (felt fine when moves were reclimbed), then again at the steep section. Had a few goes, worked out the sequence but ran out of beans after misgrabbing the jug at the end of the steep section and taking a big fall. Easily attainable within a few attempts.
with Krystal
Fell at techy section in top half (felt fine when moves were reclimbed), then again at the steep section. Had a few goes, worked out the sequence but ran out of beans after misgrabbing the jug at the end of the steep section and taking a big fall. Easily attainable within a few attempts.
with Krystal
Hidden 22 Feb TR dnf
Jamie Hoare 16 Feb Lead dog Struggled to get through the first crux but managed to work my way through the second
Struggled to get through the first crux but managed to work my way through the second
mishabruml 16 Feb Lead O/S
Bob Peters 27 Oct, 2018 Lead dog 2 very unneccessary rests. It’ll go next time.
with Joe
2 very unneccessary rests. It’ll go next time.
with Joe
David Clover 20 Oct, 2018 2nd
with rtyler
with rtyler
rtyler 20 Oct, 2018 Lead dnf Couldn't work out the fingery moves through the middle section
Couldn't work out the fingery moves through the middle section
emmafizzle 20 Oct, 2018 Lead dnf Fun route. Head game got me at the top. Glad it did becaue the guy who climbed it on our draws was met with unset bolts at the top to lower off on. Probably don’t climb this until the top has been sorted!
Fun route. Head game got me at the top. Glad it did becaue the guy who climbed it on our draws was met with unset bolts at the top to lower off on. Probably don’t climb this until the top has been sorted!
vickydavies 5 Oct, 2018 Lead β Some really nice moves
with Marcus
Some really nice moves
with Marcus
Bernie L 30 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
eddieclimb 30 Sep, 2018 Lead β
with Rich Smith, DanielW
with Rich Smith, DanielW
pguilloux 30 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Rob S
with Rob S
Hidden 30 Sep, 2018 Lead β
richsmithinbristol 30 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
sideshow84 15 Sep, 2018 Lead RP Gutted not to onsight, didnt commit to the boost move at the top
Gutted not to onsight, didnt commit to the boost move at the top
Aidan Moreno 2 Sep, 2018 Lead G/U
fammer 1 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Happy to onsight this one
with dejan
Happy to onsight this one
with dejan
robbielee1 25 Aug, 2018 Lead dog
with Alas.d.air21, Lottie Walker
with Alas.d.air21, Lottie Walker
Hidden 18 Aug, 2018 Lead dog
dshearer 10 May, 2018 Lead rpt
Tom92 29 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Climbingenthusiast 20 Apr, 2018 Lead RP
Slater425 19 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
mop449 1 Apr, 2018 Lead rpt Happy to retroflash putting the draws in. Didn't climb it very well and used stupid beta at the crux and the finish.
Happy to retroflash putting the draws in. Didn't climb it very well and used stupid beta at the crux and the finish.
Bethangriffith 1 Apr, 2018 Lead β
Saurusrock 1 Apr, 2018 Lead rpt Did this over last Easter and was pleased to find it a lot smoother this year.
with mop449
Did this over last Easter and was pleased to find it a lot smoother this year.
with mop449
RosieYates 1 Apr, 2018 Lead RP Fell off on the last move on the onsight (gahhh). Brilliant technical crux, plenty of interest and a couple of good rests to help along the way. Great route.
Fell off on the last move on the onsight (gahhh). Brilliant technical crux, plenty of interest and a couple of good rests to help along the way. Great route.
Hidden ?Apr, 2018 Lead β
AlexRenshaw 1 Dec, 2017 Lead
Stickle Tarn 15 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
vertigo 5 Oct, 2017 Lead β
just one more 5 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
with vertigo
with vertigo
Aaron owen 2 Oct, 2017 TR
Eve.G 19 Sep, 2017 2nd dog
embob 12 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf Wimped out of final move for some reason! Could see the move but couldn't go for it. Really sustained, excellent route with some v thin moves. Great crag.
with alik b
Wimped out of final move for some reason! Could see the move but couldn't go for it. Really sustained, excellent route with some v thin moves. Great crag.
with alik b
Jakeleeworthy 2 Sep, 2017 TR O/S
with Tony Leeworthy
with Tony Leeworthy
hutster781 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with jake leeworthy
with jake leeworthy
wilchivs 21 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Thin crux and desperate last move!
with James Taylor
Thin crux and desperate last move!
with James Taylor
Climbingenthusiast 21 Aug, 2017 Lead dog Rested
Rested
WillAndrew 13 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with KatePG
with KatePG
alexn 5 Jul, 2017 TR
julesmckim 5 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Great route
with Alex Nichols
Great route
with Alex Nichols
Marta Fava 16 Jun, 2017 Lead dog 2 takes
2 takes
adamsriches 16 Jun, 2017 Lead β Went straight up it after partner climbed earlier.
Went straight up it after partner climbed earlier.
philipbwilliams 21 May, 2017 2nd O/S
with Tim monks
with Tim monks
Tim M 21 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with Matt Ward, Phil T
with Matt Ward, Phil T
tobydunford 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with Tomar
with Tomar
Tomar 7 May, 2017 Lead β
with Toby
with Toby
mop449 10 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S More sustained and interesting than Deus ex Machina in my opinion.
with Sam Garland, RosieYates
More sustained and interesting than Deus ex Machina in my opinion.
with Sam Garland, RosieYates
Saurusrock 10 Apr, 2017 Lead β Think I skipped some of the harder sections with a long reach, but had fun anyway! A bit pumpy at the end for me, but an enjoyable top out as a reward.
Think I skipped some of the harder sections with a long reach, but had fun anyway! A bit pumpy at the end for me, but an enjoyable top out as a reward.
gingernick 2 Apr, 2017 Lead
climb62 ??, 2017 -
waynekinrade ??, 2017 Lead O/S
Carl Watkins 28 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 4 Nov, 2016 Lead rpt
patrickcd 4 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
partz 10 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with CLedden
with CLedden
Hidden 10 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
nickyprice77 1 Jul, 2016 Lead
Hidden 22 Jun, 2016 TR β
spearing05 21 Jun, 2016 Lead rpt First few bolts already clipped by Ash/Andrew. Led the crux.
First few bolts already clipped by Ash/Andrew. Led the crux.
Hidden 21 Jun, 2016 Lead dnf
Giles Davis 2 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
with mattrm
with mattrm
mattrm 2 Jun, 2016 TR dog Managed most of the moves. Could remember most of the difficult crux moves and crucially remembered some of the key footholds for me. Need to get much lighter and fitter tho.
Managed most of the moves. Could remember most of the difficult crux moves and crucially remembered some of the key footholds for me. Need to get much lighter and fitter tho.
Hidden 14 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 1 Apr, 2016 Lead RP
with ernesto
with ernesto
Kevin Woods 18 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt First try, smooth, in the sun. Much nicer.
First try, smooth, in the sun. Much nicer.
dmacmorris 18 Mar, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 4 Mar, 2016 TR rpt
Hidden 27 Feb, 2016 Lead dog
Kevin Woods 28 Jan, 2016 Lead RP Brr
Brr
Hidden 4 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
RichyBOYY 1 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S absolutely loved this route - psyched to have the onsight too - nicely thin technical climbing through the crux
with Callum H
absolutely loved this route - psyched to have the onsight too - nicely thin technical climbing through the crux
with Callum H
dshearer 6 Aug, 2015 Lead β
FrenchOlly 11 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
Cheese Monkey 11 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Really great moves
with Liam J
Really great moves
with Liam J
mattrm 9 Jul, 2015 TR dnf Third redpoint session. Made it through the bottom half of the crux to the mid-way holds. Using a smear foothold meant I wasn't continually pinging off the small crimps. Got onto the good foothold, but wasn't sure where to put my hands to fell off. Good steady progress.
Third redpoint session. Made it through the bottom half of the crux to the mid-way holds. Using a smear foothold meant I wasn't continually pinging off the small crimps. Got onto the good foothold, but wasn't sure where to put my hands to fell off. Good steady progress.
Hidden 25 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
mattrm 25 Jun, 2015 TR dnf Can confirm that the block that the 3rd bolt is in, is loose. However thankfully the climbing at the 3rd bolt is very easy. Still I'd leave off onsighting it till this is fixed. More top roping this time. Got through the bottom of the crux. Fell off at the next set of crimps, but it's still progress. Was able to link/do all the moves on the top of the crux and the very top, nothing that hard, was just tired so took a few falls. Good progress.
Can confirm that the block that the 3rd bolt is in, is loose. However thankfully the climbing at the 3rd bolt is very easy. Still I'd leave off onsighting it till this is fixed. More top roping this time. Got through the bottom of the crux. Fell off at the next set of crimps, but it's still progress. Was able to link/do all the moves on the top of the crux and the very top, nothing that hard, was just tired so took a few falls. Good progress.
simo 21 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt
with Pavol
with Pavol
mattrm 18 Jun, 2015 TR dnf Got up to the crux, where I was able to reach the middle holds on the crux, but couldn't move on from them. The first section is easy 6a climbing, but the crux is quite technical and fingery.
Got up to the crux, where I was able to reach the middle holds on the crux, but couldn't move on from them. The first section is easy 6a climbing, but the crux is quite technical and fingery.
Hidden 18 Jun, 2015 TR dog
gingernick 3 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt Good
with Dean Jones
Good
with Dean Jones
Becky Athay ?Jun, 2015 Lead β
with Julian Williams
with Julian Williams
Hidden 26 May, 2015 TR rpt
Hidden 26 May, 2015 TR rpt
spearing05 26 May, 2015 TR dog Grrr working a route is supposed to make it easier . . .
Grrr working a route is supposed to make it easier . . .
Hidden 25 May, 2015 Lead dog
VPJB 24 May, 2015 Lead
gingernick 20 May, 2015 Lead rpt
with Alex Duckett, dmorgan27, Dean Jones
with Alex Duckett, dmorgan27, Dean Jones
spearing05 17 May, 2015 TR β Touch and go in the middle crux
Touch and go in the middle crux
Hidden 17 May, 2015 TR rpt
Hidden 17 May, 2015 TR rpt
Hidden 17 May, 2015 Lead dog
spearing05 17 May, 2015 TR dog Missed the crucial slopping edge on central crux. Note to self, look up and right.
Missed the crucial slopping edge on central crux. Note to self, look up and right.
Gareth T 22 Apr, 2015 Lead rpt
with SWMC
with SWMC
Hidden 22 Apr, 2015 TR dog
jonsey1995 ?Mar, 2015 Lead β
Climbingenthusiast 7 Feb, 2015 Lead dnf
Steve Lewis 7 Feb, 2015 Lead β
Robheirene 12 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Tomas P
with Tomas P
afrosam 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Smurf-cat 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with afrosam
with afrosam
Hidden ?Aug, 2014 TR
Hidden 17 Jul, 2014 TR dog
Giles Davis 15 Jul, 2014 Lead dog
with Dean Jones
with Dean Jones
Gareth T 15 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt
with James Mcmunn, Tim Popplestone
with James Mcmunn, Tim Popplestone
richiebongo 11 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Block the size of a dinner plate came off the upper wall after my foot was firmly on it. Nearly hit Nick who leapt, catlike, out of the way though not without catching a stray fragment on the arse. Exciting!
with Ra, Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
Block the size of a dinner plate came off the upper wall after my foot was firmly on it. Nearly hit Nick who leapt, catlike, out of the way though not without catching a stray fragment on the arse. Exciting!
with Ra, Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
Didymus 11 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Ra
with Ra
Gareth T 9 Apr, 2014 Lead dog
with Andrew Pocklington
with Andrew Pocklington
Ricky Rocks 21 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Tomas P ?Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
tommccluskey 16 Feb, 2014 Lead G/U Fell from the very top first go - gutting! Got it easily enough second time round though
Fell from the very top first go - gutting! Got it easily enough second time round though
Petar Samkov 16 Feb, 2014 Lead RP
Marti999 6 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 25 Jun, 2013 2nd
Hidden 19 Jun, 2013 2nd
leo-z-g 6 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf
with Maurice
with Maurice
J1_TOV 6 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Nov, 2012 TR dnf
imogen.fish 12 Oct, 2012 Lead rpt
Paul Robertson 4 Oct, 2012 Lead β
Hidden 24 Jul, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 27 May, 2012 TR dnf
bluesharper 12 May, 2012 Lead RP
with sdi
with sdi
sdi 12 May, 2012 TR O/S
sdi 12 May, 2012 Lead rpt Route of the year so far. (Only route #3 or so, but still...)
Route of the year so far. (Only route #3 or so, but still...)
gingernick 10 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
DafSWMC 6 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
with gejones
with gejones
gejones 6 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
with DafSWMC
with DafSWMC
Paul Bowen 14 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt
with Bob Brewer
with Bob Brewer
gingernick 24 May, 2011 Lead O/S Very good
Very good
Hidden 13 Nov, 2010 Lead dog
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 2nd dog
Paul Bowen 9 May, 2010 Lead RP
with rob jenkins
with rob jenkins
jon clayton 17 Apr, 2010 Lead hard hard hard
with jason williams
hard hard hard
with jason williams
Hidden 10 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Tim W 6 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Sep, 2009 Lead β
goi.ashmore 1 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S Grade is a bit height dependent. I found it a long stretch, so maybe Fr6c
with Roy Thomas
Grade is a bit height dependent. I found it a long stretch, so maybe Fr6c
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 23 Oct, 2007 Lead β
Hidden 13 Aug, 2007 Lead
Billg ??, 2007 Lead O/S
with Bob Brewer
with Bob Brewer
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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set