Rockfax Description
II, 100m, 2 hours. A fun little traverse which can easily be combined with the Arête des Cosmiques and/or the Arête a Laurence for a great long day. The peak is named after the legendary French climber and guide Louis Lachenal, who died after skiing into a crevasse on the Vallée Blanche in 1955, five years after he made the first ascent of Annapurna.
Approach - Descend the famous Aiguille du Midi ridge, pass under the Arête des Cosmiques and turn south at the far end of this. 20 minutes of flat walking, past the Triangle du Tacul, brings you to the traverse.
1) Climb the 40 degree snow slope between the southeast and middle summits. The southeast summit itself is a 5 minute detour but it is worth visiting for the stomach-churning view down the south face. Retrace your steps to the top of the snow slope and follow the crest of the ridge to reach the rocks of the central summit.
2) Climb these on the north side initially before reclimbing onto the ridge and following this with some exposed but easy moves to reach the central summit. Descend on the south side for 3m to reach a bolted belay on an exposed ledge.
3) Make a 25m abseil down the north face and then traverse the exposed snow slope for 20m to reach the aesthetic snow ridge linking the central and main summits. Follow this to the foot of the rock buttress and the crux pitch.
4) 3. The crux is easier than it initially looks but there is some loose rock and it requires care. Climb initially on the left before moving right after 10m and following the vague chimney system. This steepens near the top but the holds become increasingly positive and the climbing enjoyable. Belay on blocks above the chimney. If completely dry, the crux can be dangerously loose and it can be avoided by making a long traverse around the north side of the main summit's rock buttress to reach the snow slope leading to the summit.
5) Follow the snow slope easily to reach the summit.
Descent - Descend northwards down the snow ridge, passing briefly under the Tacul serac (don't hang around) before turning eastwards and walking down to rejoin the approach path. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming.

Kristian1805 23/Aug/18 -
Riina Laitinen 08/Aug/18 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/18 Lead rpt
philippoc93 30/Jul/18 Lead O/S
with Oli Flindall
HardknottDave 29/Jul/18 Lead O/S

Actually found this climb more challenging than The Cosmiques. The crux pitch is easier than the crux on The Cosmiques but is more sustained and is 45m long. Two 50 meters ropes very handy for the abseil!! Excellent day, despite nearly getting wiped out by a boulder on the decent.

with Fran
oli_f92 29/Jul/18 2nd
Hidden 29/Jul/18 AltLd
Cillian 29/Jul/18 AltLd O/S
Artem Babichenko 29/Jul/18 AltLd O/S
Calum3610 27/Jul/18 AltLd

Moved together.

with Connor170
Hidden 26/Jul/18 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/18 -
Mike Bovill 25/Jul/18 -
Hidden 24/Jul/18 2nd O/S
Tim Sparrow 23/Jul/18 AltLd

Nice start to alpine trip. Good fun. Followed by Arete Laurence and Cosmiques

with Geoff Thomas
Hidden 16/Jul/18 Lead
Westy 16/Jul/18 Lead O/S
jessieleong 13/Jul/18 Lead rpt

Fairly speedy over the Valleé Blanche and slushy snow steps. Lot less snow then ‘16. Exposes moves on the top ( easy ridge) and steep abseil. We tied two ropes together- then saw giant serac fall off Mont Blanc de tacul. Abandoned the summit, set up a sling and maillon and abseiled down just above berghsrund and walked across. Planned originally to walk over to Laurence arête but decided to bail and walk up and out.

with Emma Bryning
ACT 12/Jul/18 AltLd
with Peter N
Michael Bonallie 12/Jul/18 Lead
pnordberg 12/Jul/18 AltLd
with ACT
Hidden 12/Jul/18 Lead
CarlosTT 11/Jul/18 Lead
jalqazzaz 10/Jul/18 Solo
wilkinscl 10/Jul/18 Lead O/S
with Katharine
Hidden 05/Jul/18 2nd
jflloyd ?/Jun/18 AltLd
Alex.De ??/2018 -
Blackcountrybill 16/Oct/17 Solo
George.D 14/Oct/17 Lead
Hidden 18/Sep/17 -
BarneyLoosemore 16/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
R0BJ0N 16/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Gabi Ebedo, Charlie Hornberger
mattsmithuk 07/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Barney Allen
marjan schoeke 05/Sep/17 AltLd

started early from the hut and were beating the crowds coming up with the first cable car

RWW 04/Sep/17 -
steve_gibbs 26/Aug/17 AltLd rpt
with Owen Silitch
GHawksworth 20/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Came down the snow slope after the first abseil.

rosatb 20/Aug/17 AltLd
BHuthers 20/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Excellent snow slope at the start, a little icy in places. Abseiled off after first peak.

hmetoomey 20/Aug/17 AltLd
Jordangask 14/Aug/17 -
jimbonfire 13/Aug/17 Lead
BlackheathDiggs 13/Aug/17 2nd
Owen Silitch 09/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
george327 02/Aug/17 Lead dnf

bailed for Chris to catch plane on time

with Chris Huntington, Sam Davies
TomAlford 30/Jul/17 Lead rpt

Crux pitches were in bad nick, pretty thin, much much harder than usual, maybe Scottish III/IV

birks3746 29/Jul/17 -

Very different connies to last year, hard crud ice. 1st route of the trip, went direct on the ice start and fell off!

with Phil
Hidden 27/Jul/17 2nd O/S
stratandrew 27/Jul/17 Lead O/S

1St lift on midi then traverse on fresh snow to approach. Quite icy slopes. Easy traverse, then the awkward ab, crossed snow arete then the treat of the day...a snowed up frozen gully for 50m, rock not loose, resembling a little version of some of the grade II / III Scottish gullies on sneachda. I had heard reports of a loose horror show but today it was in perfect nick. Easy descent on snow over to arete a laurence.

with James Hall, Philip Jarvis
Shea 23/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Nice day out, definitely +degrees with melty snow. Took my phone out for a picture and released my lift pass to the winds

with Min
Min 23/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Shea
rpinto 23/Jul/17 AltLd
janegallwey 23/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Christine 23/Jul/17 AltLd rpt
with rpinto, Sjoerd
Lancer 22/Jul/17 AltLd

We did the Pointe Lachanel traverse,the Arête d'Laurence and the Arête des Cosmiques, with a brief stop for lunch in Cosmiques hut- back in Chamonix for 3:30. Quite fast and moving together mostly all day. An awesome day!

with Fred
7toes 20/Jul/17 AltLd
with Tom G
Roger Burrows 15/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Not much snow around and so was tiring front pointing up the icy face to gain the first summit. Think we messed the abseil up a bit and went a bit to far down (to the snow line) as when at the end of our 60m rope, we found it challenging to find a decent belay. After a bit of messing around on loose rock we traversed right and followed the rock line diagonally up and to the right and regained the exposed snow saddle then on to the summit with some more loose rock knocking about and an easy plod back down.

BenCollis 13/Jul/17 AltLd
NielsC 10/Jul/17 -
Hidden 10/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 10/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Tommy Harris 08/Jul/17 Lead rpt

Drag my wife along it in shite conditions, made the climb much more fun for me.

Orange 07/Jul/17 AltLd
with Louis Kennedy
Ianhulme 05/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Ian Thorpe
ftocher 05/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Alpine Ian
betathief 04/Jul/17 AltLd O/S


Jessicacrump 04/Jul/17 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jul/17 AltLd
joem 03/Jul/17 AltLd
with Clare white
PatrickRT 02/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/17 -
CHarrison 02/Jul/17 -

Brilliant conditions to start out bivi day. Moved together on all but the crux which Patrick lead

with Patrick Arty
Robbie Blease 02/Jul/17 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/17 Lead
Nickwild 30/Jun/17 2nd
with Daniel Wild, Bertrand Gentou
Daniel-Wild 30/Jun/17 2nd
with Bertrand (Guide), Nick
IanHope 24/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Bruce goodlad
ChrisH89 24/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Acclimatisation route. Lean conditions, but despite being totally dry the crux pitch was pretty solid, contrary to guidebook descriptions.

with OLGrady
OLGrady 24/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
AlexD-L 22/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

With Faye. Not exactly in condition...some ice climbing required on what was meant to be a snow slope, rockfall on the abseil and plenty of wobbling rocks in the crux made for a fun and exciting day out.

Duncan 88 22/Jun/17 2nd
duncanedgley 22/Jun/17 Lead
JonoDHawkins 22/Jun/17 AltLd
faye 22/Jun/17 AltLd
with ADL
Hidden 22/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
gavin88 22/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Beth
Ashley King 20/Jun/17 AltLd

Very dry. Moving from the bottom of the abseil to the traverse was a little desperate. The crux pitch was great fun however.

with adawson
adawson 20/Jun/17 Lead
Meganhwclark 16/Jun/17 AltLd
a_m154 15/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Moved together throughout. Conditions not great, bergschrund had opened up at the start, snow ridge was pretty steep ice and the gully was full of loose rock.

Eloise_SW 15/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Conville
Andy Ovens - UKC and UKH 15/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with a_m154
JimBee 14/Jun/17 AltLd rpt

First bin up. 9:05 at the snow platform after the Midi ridge descent. 9:55 on the first snow peak of the route, finished by 12. Onward to the Cosmiques, arrived at Abri Simond at 1pm.

with Alex Brink
Hidden 13/Jun/17 -
Munkynutz 12/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Lovely views while it stayed clear. Very loose section of rock alongside the abseil. The pitch was mildly loose.

BradDodd 11/Jun/17 2nd

Snow was a little soft but snow bridge before chimney was good enough to walk on top. Climbing in crampons was a little hard. Walk back up was a slog

James.houghton 11/Jun/17 Lead

First lift up, did in two hours. Slog back to the midi was hot and hard due to not being acclimatised.

Tim Bevan 08/Jun/17 Lead rpt

Second alpine adventure for Tom and Jen. Great weather and moral remained high despite a total lack of tea on the route.

with Jen Booyes, Tomdewilton
Hidden 17/Apr/17 -
Petarghh 17/Apr/17 Lead
miriamclaire 07/Apr/17 -
Maraleitan ?/Apr/17 -
with Niels
mBob8 19/Jan/17 Solo O/S

A good day linked with Arete Laurence

Pete Lindley ??/2017 Lead
jamieevans ??/2017 -
Christine 01/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Nick
AnnaBacklund ?/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
TomAlford 21/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Snow was thick and unstable on exit pitches, so traversed the blocky terrain instead. Descent was very dicey

JHolland 12/Sep/16 -

Conditions decent after a bit of overnight snow, very dry otherwise. Recommend taking a 60m to account for the potential different lengths of abseil-one guidebook said 15m but it was almost full stretch on a 60 when we were there. Chimney pitch was superb, and the views from the summit were great for such a compact warm up peak. Great acclimatisation!

Hidden 12/Sep/16 -
jamesb101 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Ice was thin near the top of the route. Combined with cosmiques

TomAlford 07/Sep/16 -
chris smith 05/Sep/16 Lead O/S
OrphusBoi 04/Sep/16 2nd
with Chris Smith
Wiseman ?/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/16 Lead
ollyalkema 25/Aug/16 Lead
with Fergus McCarroll
roxyroundtheworld 22/Aug/16 -
james.oc 19/Aug/16 DWS O/S

10cm of snow in August - winter conditions in the summer. Wonderful views into Italy, and nice trek across the Glacier

lucyh 18/Aug/16 2nd
c357 13/Aug/16 Lead

Guidebook says 25m abseil. A 30m abseil is required to give you a chance of making yourself safe for traverse. There is tat on the right to do it in two shorter abseils if required, but need to go diagonally over a pillar.

Richard Kendrick 08/Aug/16 Solo rpt

With Cosmiques, good training!

birks3746 06/Aug/16 AltLd

Made it up to the mid-summit of Pointe Lachenal where there was approximately 2 million people learning how to abseil. Sacked it off and did the cosmique arête where there were approximately only 1 million people on the route. Felecity led 99% of the Cosmique whilst I was enjoying being a tired punter to end a phenomenal week. I only led the bits where I got grumpy at waiting and went into impatient overtaking mode. Topped out to tourists wanting selfies with us...surreal

with Felecity Eperon
Hidden 03/Aug/16 Lead
Richard Kendrick 01/Aug/16 Solo
Rhys Deane ?/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Nikos Roidos
Aislinn_sun ?/Aug/16 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jul/16 Solo
hairy51 27/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Good fun for half a day out. Chimney was fairly dry and felt pretty lose.

10029759 27/Jul/16 AltLd
with hairy51
Iain_L_32 24/Jul/16 -
scottywakefield 24/Jul/16 AltLd

Loose rocks at abseil, did final pointe as one pitch to save time.

with Iain_L_32, Aline
JezzaCat 24/Jul/16 Lead
mattdennies 20/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Got first lift up, very quiet and snow still in great condition. Chimney was good fun and cold enough to not be a choss fest. Done in 1 hour 45 then continued on to cosmiques.

with Greg
bogpetre 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Enchained with Cosmiques

Hidden 15/Jul/16 AltLd rpt
RuthW 10/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 10/Jul/16 2nd
nicjbuk 07/Jul/16 2nd
with Jim groark
jayray 04/Jul/16 2nd
CameronH 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Just Will 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/16 -
DavidOola ?/Jul/16 -
Jake397 ?/Jul/16 -
with Storme England
Ed Saint ?/Jul/16 -

A short but fun route incorporating lots of different alpine skills. Keep an eye on the rock when climbing the chimney!

markflanagan 29/Jun/16 -
Nesa 28/Jun/16 -
with L. Muirhead, B. Bradford (Guide)
Michael Bonallie 28/Jun/16 AltLd
with Joe Daly
nelstrop 28/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Moved together, were the first on the route so no queues

with RJP
Hidden 28/Jun/16 -
Storme 27/Jun/16 AltLd

Combined with Cosmiques Arete

Martin Haworth 27/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Stuart Hurworth 27/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Short easy route on way up to Cosmiques Arete. Unfortunately big party doing two abseils slowly in front, ended up waiting for a long time on a windy, very cold and shaded ledge! The traverse was so short and easy it seemed like we'd walked up just to do an abseil! After this the crux pitch was much more entertaining, excellent juggy fun, but very loose! Beware climbing below people! (lots of others sacked the abseil and went just to this pitch)

jessieleong 27/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Climbed with Storme, abseiled down was fine until bottom. Very cold at top!

with Storme
Hidden 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S
JennyBroomby 23/Jun/16 2nd

Busy route - pushed in front of by a number of guides at the rappel. Lots of snow still about but still a great climb.

SWhite10 23/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Doug miller 23/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Shane , SteveoS
Stephen3005 22/Jun/16 Lead
Alfie Maun 20/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
JoeMortimer 20/Jun/16 AltLd
with Alfie
rosso 19/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Winter conditions. Moved together and pitched the chimney. Great climb, but the snow made moves a bit uncertain as it was hard to judge if there was a rock or nothing below.

nathanjmasters 19/Jun/16 AltLd
with rosso
Rory Southworth 07/Jun/16 -
Hidden ?/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Ian84 ?/Jun/16 -

Lots of fresh snow made the chimney tricky and white out conditions made the walk back across the glacier interesting.

Cragcloud 06/May/16 AltLd O/S
garethsteel 20/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Done via a ski approach in a lot of fresh powder. Ski's carried on route. Got ropes stuck on abseil from central peak (care). Group soloed to the bottom of the western peak. Pitched the last chimney - awkward carrying ski's. Finished by skiing the Vallee Blanche and getting the train by about a minute!

huwaaron ??/2016 -
_hs_ ??/2016 Lead
MichaelGallimore 29/Dec/15 Lead O/S

Moved together then pitched the left chimney

JendeHoxar 29/Dec/15 2nd

Glorious weather - absolutely breathtaking views. Moved together over the first part of the traverse, then abseil (the party next to us got their ropes completely stuck and walked all the way back to the start of the traverse to collect them). Pitched the climb on the final section - I seconded.

Jenn_Stretton 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Nicola Hughes
Hidden 12/Sep/15 -
Rob Royle 06/Sep/15 Lead
with Steph
Samuel Wainwright 04/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Jed Jackson, wainers
heghedush 03/Sep/15 2nd
JimBee 02/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Jon Wichett, Alison Maher
Piglet69 ?/Sep/15 2nd
niallsash ?/Sep/15 Lead
Chuck 22/Aug/15 -
Zoe Cockburn ?/Aug/15 -
MarinaKrijgsman 26/Jul/15 2nd
with Anniek Verschuur, ijsbeer
ijsbeer 26/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Anniek Verschuur (NijSAC) & Marina Krijgsman (ASAC)

JdotP 12/Jul/15 -
with The innocent one, Magda Borkowska
niallsash 10/Jul/15 -
Hidden 09/Jul/15 -
Hidden 09/Jul/15 -
frotveit 09/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Paul
squicky 07/Jul/15 AltLd dnf

Pair in front took an hour to do the rappel so we abbed off the icy ridge between the two points.

AshBash 04/Jul/15 -

First alpine route did a link up with cosmiques

olekemi 03/Jul/15 Solo O/S

End of day after finishing Marylene on the South face.

with Ken B, Martin F
mattdennies 03/Jul/15 2nd dnf
Hidden ?/Jul/15 -
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
benwh1te ?/Jul/15 -
TAG_UTLEY ?/Jul/15 Lead

Didn't go to last Gendarme, in order to get back for lift.

with Rosalie
Hidden 30/Jun/15 2nd O/S
danieleaston 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Fun and varied, been too hot lately so chimney pitch was loose and return up midi arete slushy.

with Sam
Hidden 29/Jun/15 -
rosieposey14 26/Jun/15 Lead
with ben ireland
Dino Dave 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Kat Ostrich
tmwltn 26/Jun/15 -
KatOstrich 26/Jun/15 AltLd
with Dave
edjenkins 26/Jun/15 -
laurence_falconer 24/Jun/15 -
with Megan Jackson, Ben Caley, Zolly Whitaker
peaterpan 24/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Great first alpine day. Led the final mixed pitch which was both terrifying and fantastic.

with Remy Veness
adam.wood 22/Jun/15 -

Second day of conville, didn't go to highest peak due to queues.

ruthieie 22/Jun/15 -
davkeo 21/Jun/15 Solo

With cosmiques arête for good afternoon

callumbtaylor 21/Jun/15 -

Summited the central peak of the pointe lachanel traverse direct up the north face - great fairly steep 3 pitch mixed climb

pcurt 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Remyveness 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Climbed up the north face of the central summit in three mixed pitched, finishing with a lovely ice gully.

sammo247 19/Jun/15 2nd
chiverstom 19/Jun/15 Lead O/S
jac00 19/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Mike
JonWoolacott 16/Jun/15 -
Remyveness 15/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Poor weather and a late start meant we were unable to climb the 4a pitch

with Josh Taujanskas
JoshT 15/Jun/15 -
Hidden 13/Jun/15 Solo
Hidden 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Remyveness 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Climbed in a day with the Cosmique Arrete

Hidden 11/Jun/15 AltLd
steveforgrieve 10/Jun/15 2nd

Alpine week with guide Pelle Bagewitz.

Hidden 10/Jun/15 AltLd
sj87 10/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/15 -
Hugh Simons 04/Jun/15 -

First Alpine Peak!

calumhicks 04/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

First alpine route!

with Adam Harris
Zolly Whitaker ?/Jun/15 -
with Megan Jackson, Ben Caley, laurence_falconer
emilyjhunt ?/Jun/15 2nd
with Phil Dowthwaite, Ruth Sullivan
Hidden ?/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 10/May/15 -
Hidden ?/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 07/Jan/15 AltLd
James Charatan 12/Oct/14 -
Simon Gompertz 12/Oct/14 -

Just went straight up the highest of the peaks, over bergschrund, up the ice wall to the gap then 2 more pitches to the top

Hidden 16/Sep/14 Lead
dauwhe 13/Sep/14 -
Jordangask 12/Sep/14 Lead

Felt very Scottish, cold in the shade but awesome route!

marr.simon 12/Sep/14 2nd

I'll take some warmer gloves next time as it's all in the shade. Amazing route! WMAM 14

Tim Rodgers 11/Sep/14 -
Hidden 09/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
paulmck 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Stani49
Stani49 05/Sep/14 2nd
with paulmck
Hidden 04/Sep/14 -
MrRiley 04/Sep/14 AltLd rpt

Enjoyed this even more second time around as the chimney was very wintery and provided a great 40m pitch of IV, 4

with Richard Hines
Little AndyH 04/Sep/14 -
Debbie Lee 04/Sep/14 AltLd
with Lachy, Andy
davkeo ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Nice mixed section at the end.

JoelO ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
engelsk_chica ?/Sep/14 2nd
annak 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Big Lee
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Solo
Big Lee 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with annak
ollyroberts 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Moved together.

Smith42 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Lindsay Yule
Tim Bevan 19/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S

moved together

cathymiller 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Great route for a day when the avalanche risk was too high for a big climb. Climbed with Artur and Patrik - Artur led the 4a rock pitch.

artmal 16/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Patryk
mim tiller 14/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Adamski1986 08/Aug/14 AltLd
with Richard Gage
Hidden 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/14 -
Hidden 05/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Paul ablitt 05/Aug/14 AltLd

guide book time

with Rushy
Hidden 04/Aug/14 AltLd
jogle03 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Danbow73 25/Jul/14 -
EllieWoods 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Followed with Cosmique's arête. From the first lift.

gingerbex 25/Jul/14 2nd O/S
skirton 25/Jul/14 AltLd
with Ben Jones
Richard Alderton 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
scottie390 23/Jul/14 -

working with paul bridge and simon gardner

reima 19/Jul/14 -
with Niamh
jhobbs 18/Jul/14 -
matty123 17/Jul/14 Lead
with Mia
blue-icefox 03/Jul/14 2nd

Rocks in the chimney were really loose and there was a danger of some big pieces falling onto people below. Hardly any snow, but still climbed in crampons. I lead the last few meters to the summit.

wiibaker 03/Jul/14 AltLd

The end chimney was so crowded that ended doing a variation rounding up from the right.

2010_graham 03/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Ahebden93 01/Jul/14 2nd
with Ndawson
Ndawson 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S

First Alpine Climb

Hidden ?/Jul/14 -
Anna duckett ?/Jul/14 -
ernieb182 ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Very busy day and very hot! Some idiotic parties as usual but other than that, an enjoyable route.

with Remco Graas
rfleal ?/Jul/14 -
Hidden 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Chrissy202 26/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Dawn_K_B 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Climbed with Ben, great first alpine route, had a bit of everything!

with Lawrence Beesley-Peck, JemG, benkelsey
Charlotte Nelson 26/Jun/14 -
JemG 26/Jun/14 AltLd
Rebs 26/Jun/14 Lead

Did first two points on conville, and also climbed direct to the second point via the slightly steeper (and occasionally chossy) snow slope

Street 25/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Gibbo 21/Jun/14 AltLd
with Sash Coombes
Hidden 17/Jun/14 2nd
joelevanschamonix 17/Jun/14 Solo rpt


Nick_Merriman 17/Jun/14 -
Tim Harper 17/Jun/14 -
Retro Rowan 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

First Alpine route

Hidden 16/Jun/14 Solo
laurence_falconer ?/Jun/14 -

Took the second point direct by an snow / ice route

with Rebs
Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
DigitalSteak 31/May/14 Lead
Hidden 14/May/14 Solo dnf
McGuinness 20/Mar/14 -
with Nick
Hidden ??/2014 -
MSchobitz ??/2014 -
danJBA 03/Oct/13 AltLd
with Kayan
Kayan 03/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
with danJBA
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead
joe.91 20/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
AdamH 20/Sep/13 -

Lots of snow and a helicopter rescue for a guide who took a big fall

Hidden 20/Sep/13 AltLd
John Procter 17/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with tom humphreys
adamwesthead 07/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Mixed gully very lean and lose. Climbed with crampons and bare hands.

with zebster
j.buckley87 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S
zebster 07/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/13 -
Ly-Cilph 06/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Moved together; 4hrs including approach and return. Enchained with Arete des Cosmiques; a lovely 7hr day out.

with Till N
david0811 02/Sep/13 -
with debbie, MrRiley
MrRiley 02/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic views and a fun route, the 40m loose icy chimney was distinctly trickier than anything else

Debbie Lee 02/Sep/13 AltLd
with MrRiley
scottywakefield ?/Sep/13 2nd

Lots of fun and another beautiful day

with rick mobbs
Braintax ?/Sep/13 -

Harder start up face directly from Aguille du Midi walk

Hidden 23/Aug/13 AltLd dnf
Ccmilree 20/Aug/13 AltLd
machine45 20/Aug/13 AltLd

Climbed with Mark Madge, Ed Smart and Caroline Milree. Did my first leading on an alpine route up 50 degree ice slope placing approx 4 ice screws.

justaddpowder 20/Aug/13 AltLd dnf

Early start up 'midi station and moved onto glacier dropping bivi kit on the way to climb. Moved together up 1st 50deg ice slope with geoff leading. Up broken bolders to 1st summit. Abb'd down to the traverse for 2nd summit. Ed got his belay stuck and spent 20min trying to free it. in the end passed my belay plate up to him to use. Caroline got very cold in the wait and even after trying to warm her up in the sun still stayed cold. next climb section was very dry and very loose with 10+ people on it setting of rock fall. dicided to retreat of right slope. Geoff lead the other two down climbing whilst I belayed and moved down after. Slow. Walked Caroline back to station. Ed and Geoff dug a cold sink/bivi for that night. Cold but ok night @ 3520m 3613m AD II (4a) Sunny, slight/mod wind

Hidden 14/Aug/13 Solo
Paal Kristoffer 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Jo sumner 09/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/13 Lead
David Maddison 02/Aug/13 2nd O/S
onlyfoddington 02/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Didn't go straight up the the side to the first summit as others were in the way. I tried to spice things up by finding some unnecessary climbing. The initial traverse to the third summit was spicy, especially with one axe. The chimney had a lot of loose blocks. Conditions meant you had to contend with slippery gravel to get to the base of the chimney.

with alooker
Si ?/Aug/13 -
Kris ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Jack00 ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Edd Carrigan
c357 27/Jul/13 -
swmackey 27/Jul/13 AltLd
Lumbering Oaf 26/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Easy climbing and a good day out. Was roasted by the afternoon temperatures on the climb back up to the Midi Station.

with Paul Justin
Hidden 26/Jul/13 AltLd
planetmarshall 25/Jul/13 Lead

Chimney pitch was extremely loose - recommend climbers avoid this route until colder conditions prevail.

with James Matthews
jimmatthews 25/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jul/13 -
Hidden 21/Jul/13 2nd
Adamski1986 21/Jul/13 Lead
with Stewart Webb, kerry
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Bruce S 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/13 -
Hidden 17/Jul/13 Solo rpt
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd dnf
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
BoulderyDave 13/Jul/13 2nd dnf

Bailed as the chimney was completely free of snow. We watched a head size boulder get dislodged by the group in front and decided there was more fun to be had elsewhere.

Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead
joedoherty 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Dave Holmes-Evans
Hidden 10/Jul/13 -
Ciaran Mullan 09/Jul/13 -
James_L88 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Jul/13 AltLd
KatOstrich 06/Jul/13 AltLd
with Laurence
OwenDT 06/Jul/13 2nd

1st unguided alpine route

with FaithSP
Martin Rowe 06/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 AltLd
Ali D 02/Jul/13 AltLd
steve_gibbs 02/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Ali D
Richard Thombs ?/Jul/13 -
Claire Molloy ?/Jul/13 Lead
with NoelleG
alooker ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great route other than very loose crux pitch. Ice thin after for the traverse after the abseil.

James Gordon ?/Jul/13 -
Hidden 30/Jun/13 -
zcsharp 28/Jun/13 AltLd

Lead the rock/mixed bit.

with spenser, Mark
Hidden 28/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/13 2nd
Grant Fulton 27/Jun/13 -
masmith 26/Jun/13 AltLd
with Spenser Grey, zcsharp
pffft 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Quickly did this in the morning before finishing back up the midi on Cosmiques. Lovely Chimney at the end, though so many people. First Alpine route! :D

Hidden 23/Jun/13 -
Mr Fuller 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Very busy but a nice route.

with Paul Gibbison, riven
aldo56 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Nice mixed route; some questionable snow and high temps gave some exciting rock/avalanche in the areas all round. Climbed in part, Conville.

Hidden 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Alex Munnery 14/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Luke Duckworth
Helen Gibson 13/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

lead the mixed chimney pitch which was fun... good route.

with Gus
matt.budge 12/Jun/13 2nd

Great views of the Tacal!

Hidden 11/Jun/13 -
Hidden 11/Jun/13 Lead
DigitalSteak 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Great conditions, solid snow all the way. Rock pitch nice and mixed!

paulmck 02/Jun/13 AltLd
Nemo9 ?/Jun/13 AltLd

Moved together except for very loose chimney

with Col
spenser ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Really cold so good snow conditions, the pitch of rock/ mixed at the end felt fairly difficult but was very enjoyable.

Hidden ?/Jun/13 2nd
laurence_falconer ?/Jun/13 -
with Katherine Ostritch
leowestland ?/Jun/13 -
Naomi Havercroft ?/Jun/13 -
with pffft
Hidden 08/May/13 Lead
Hidden 08/May/13 Solo rpt
Jacob Forshaw 06/May/13 2nd O/S
lost.arrow 27/Mar/13 AltLd
James Thacker ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Ed carrigan ??/2013 -
with Jack00
jack.williams1 20/Sep/12 Lead
masmith 20/Sep/12 AltLd
Chris_Mullaney 09/Sep/12 2nd
with Mr. K
Mr. K 09/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Turned back and went for a walk around the Valley Blanche to avoid getting tangled up in a big production team filming a documentary.

Ashley Hold ?/Sep/12 AltLd
with torquil
dave josling ?/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
timofy ?/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Solo O/S
JKBowers 10/Aug/12 Lead
with David Clej, Antonia Hawker
Hidden 03/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 -
Andy Hewison 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S

After descending from Aiguille Du Midi did this before coming back round to do the Cosmiques Arete. Nice straight forward climbing. Had to be quick on the descent to the Col du Midi as there was fresh evidence of Serac fall.

with Francois Bouvier
Hidden 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Rockley 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lots of serac fall on the descent

Ewan Russell 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with steve(friend of james wilson), Rockley
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
thomaspomfrett 18/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead the crux pitch on the third summit

with Dan Slome
wendynicholls 18/Jul/12 2nd
with Dominic Saul, Richard DuPont
Hidden 12/Jul/12 AltLd
Tdavy01 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/12 -
Hidden 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Katherine Ross 03/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Really nice, quick route.

with cbeard
cbeard 03/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Nice views, shame about the continuous scrum of people

Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
OwenF ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Once with Alasdair in the rain! Again a couple of days later with James in moonshine prior to Cosmique Arete.

franksnb ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S

moving together, only got lost once!

with owen
Huw Mithan 30/Jun/12 AltLd
with David Webster
Webster 30/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

moved together mostly at the front. first peak was icy, second was bare rock gully.

abtibbs 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with HarryB
HarryB 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with abtibbs
davebrox 26/Jun/12 AltLd β

Also climbed on 18/6/13

with Andy, Jim, mary
Hidden 26/Jun/12 -
Hidden 22/Jun/12 -
Mike Hood 21/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jun/12 -
danfitz 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/12 2nd
Brendan 05/Jun/12 -

Just the main summit.

with Andy
TCarrick ?/Jun/12 -
Strachan ?/Jun/12 -
Keith-Getoutadventures 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

Moved together for bulk of route, I led the chimmney. Almost got knocked out at half height due to some twat above kicking off a head sized lump of snow ice. Luckily I saw it coming and it smashed on the back of my helmet, Lucky escape!

Hidden 29/May/12 AltLd O/S
nicjbuk 28/May/12 AltLd

usual route up left and round the back, abseil then over to climb the 40m chimney. good conditions

with BILL BUTTERWORTH, ross nicol esq
Rick Ashton 06/Apr/12 AltLd
with Bruno Schull
YellowFellow 08/Mar/12 2nd
with Olga
bsavage 04/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Route in very icy condition, on previous attempts had been snow to summit of 1st point and was a 30-40m ice pitch. Did not have sufficient ice equipment to complete climb - backed off half way up face.

with Jeremy Savage
Alasdair Fulton 01/Mar/12 AltLd

Nice. Seracs creaked just as we got to them! Run away and down the Valley Blanche.

Ross Barnes 01/Mar/12 AltLd
nickcj 29/Oct/11 -
nvalentine760 20/Sep/11 AltLd
with danJBA
danJBA 20/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Jon Sutterby 06/Sep/11 2nd β

Climbed as preparation for Mont Blanc traverse route.

with Steve Bate
brad_tait 28/Aug/11 -
wookie667 25/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/11 -
tomtom89 14/Aug/11 -
with jac00
jac00 14/Aug/11 -
The Bad Cough 06/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
John sealey 06/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 -
Kris ?/Aug/11 -
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead
Clay C 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Caspar
Hidden 29/Jul/11 Solo O/S
tlmarjot 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with ben_lea
Hidden 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden 22/Jul/11 -
Hidden 14/Jul/11 -
aipattison 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Josh Waller
Greg Boswell 11/Jul/11 Lead
yashvi 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Jo Wimalasena
Ally Baba 11/Jul/11 Lead
with Greg Boswell
ferdia 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Hertha Taverner-Wood
knicos 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
nvalentine760 02/Jul/11 Solo O/S
mattgrange 01/Jul/11 -

With Andy Perkins and Trudi Smith, starting from Aiguille du Midi and returning via the Cosmiques refuge. Very good route, great views.

edmitchell ?/Jul/11 Lead
JonHarvey ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

followed by Cosmiques solo 49mins.

Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/Jul/11 Lead
with JSAM, AIT
steve-grigg ?/Jul/11 AltLd
JRSB1991 ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
SiRob ?/Jul/11 -
with PE
emmarowe ?/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Tommy Harris 15/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Petarghh 02/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

A bit scottish ! but awesome fun.

Jack Loftus 02/Jun/11 -
KatieG ?/Jun/11 -
jacksonak47 ?/Jun/11 2nd
QuentinSu ?/May/11 AltLd O/S
darcan ??/2011 AltLd
tompilgrem ??/2011 -

Missed out the second mixed section as didn't like look of it. Went round the side and up instead.,

Jimb0 02/Sep/10 -
with Ander
Ander 02/Sep/10 -

Worthwhile trip. Fell in crevasse at end...

with Jimb0
iang74 01/Sep/10 -
with smuffy
Hidden ?/Sep/10 -
kelly_426 ?/Sep/10 -
with Sasha Doyle
Hidden ?/Sep/10 -
Hidden 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
PHILD 25/Aug/10 2nd

Gorgeous weather, excellent views, nice first climb.

Hidden 22/Aug/10 AltLd
munki1971 20/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/10 Solo dnf
PeteH 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
DaveLeonard 13/Aug/10 AltLd
with PeteH
Ken Applegate 11/Aug/10 Lead

Great little route.

squicky 10/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
bsavage 09/Aug/10 Lead
quarryman 03/Aug/10 2nd
CWMulcahy 02/Aug/10 -
Whitty2012 01/Aug/10 AltLd

Nice route, great conditions

Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
Hidden 27/Jul/10 -
Hidden 16/Jul/10 -
1andrew1 12/Jul/10 2nd
with drew52
Hidden 12/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 -
jonesieboy ?/Jul/10 2nd
quarryman ?/Jul/10 -
with Nic Bryceland
pawelx ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

poor, did as acclimatization

Lancer ?/Jul/10 -
rossn ?/Jul/10 Solo
with Bill Butterworth, Fred Cochrane, Nick Bryan
mark_chal 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
nicjbuk 21/Jun/10 AltLd


rossn ?/Jun/10 Lead

Great weather thumping headache on the way back to the Aiguille du Midi though

with Bill Butterworth, Fred Cochrane, Nick Bryan
kevburr 25/May/10 2nd O/S
with Roger Payne
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 09/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Souljah 09/Sep/09 -
with Shaun
vincentvega 09/Sep/09 Lead
with jeff, danny robb, kevin k
Martin Bennett 01/Sep/09 -
with Richard McGuinness, Glenn, Ali
Hidden ?/Sep/09 2nd O/S
SteveK ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
roryifinlay 17/Aug/09 AltLd

Daithi had done it a few days ago so he kindly let me lead the rock pitches.

with Daithi O Murachu
JDSwain 15/Aug/09 Solo O/S

Took 1 hour from the midi station to complete the route

with Will Sim
will_lake 01/Aug/09 AltLd
with Nick Weatherall
Bristoldave ?/Aug/09 Lead
Krumme ?/Aug/09 -
CarolineH ?/Aug/09 -
tdudley 29/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

missed out ab and traversed round north face instead, doing a couple of traverse ice pitches. lead up crux.

with Chris Glennie
KatieG 15/Jul/09 -
Phil Jennings 11/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
bridget143 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Rich and John
The Mountain Goat 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/09 2nd
Sam-westcott ??/2009 -
Jules 210681 29/Aug/08 AltLd
with Zoomer
Zoomer 29/Aug/08 AltLd

Quick and easy, the gully (4a) is loose though.

DannyMac 29/Aug/08 AltLd
with Zoomer
Hidden 14/Aug/08 2nd
Neil Mackenzie 09/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

nice little afternoon trip from our bivi at the colo. easy but fun with awesome views

with Nick
andymoin 09/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Nice wee easy route in impressive surroundings, slightly easy than cos arête but longer with approach/decent. Watch out for the seracs hanging of tucals North face, watched some guys descending narrowly avoid getting taken out and it was only a minor fall.

with adw07
Hidden 09/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
CGlennie ?/Aug/08 -
nickdonohue ?/Aug/08 -

Easy short route

with Warren ?
Misha 19/Jul/08 AltLd

Fantastic mixed pitch. We going to do the Chere but it was too busy and Billy didn't fancy the other routes on the Pyramid as didn't like the idea of descending the Tacul face.

richard s 15/Jul/08 2nd
with Andy Perkins, Oliver Smith
Hidden 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Rob84 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Sam Strong
SamStrong 25/Jun/08 2nd rpt
with Rob Dyer
spbond 25/Jun/08 AltLd β
with Jim Dutton
Hidden 23/Jun/08 2nd O/S
David Bennett 14/Jun/08 -

Just the last summit

with Paul
Tom Stoddart 20/Sep/07 -
with Iain Leverett, Tom Slade
spbond 04/Sep/07 2nd
with Steve, Dane, SamStrong
SamStrong ?/Sep/07 Lead
with Stephen Bond, Steve Windross, Dane Harris
Cardi 11/Aug/07 2nd

Moved together. Steve and Lois on another rope.

with Ant F
Martyn ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Simon Bayliss
9fingerjon ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with James H
existing debt ?/Jul/07 -
with Billy
Hidden 06/Sep/06 Solo dnf
Hidden 03/Sep/06 AltLd
pancakeandchips ?/Aug/06 -
with Luke
Hidden 30/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Somerset swede basher 09/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Rich Siddle
Hidden 27/Jun/06 AltLd
djking1983 27/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Smudge03 27/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Also Dave King, Tim Clark and James Fry

industrialiceman 31/Jul/05 Lead
David Horwood 12/Sep/04 -
TobyA ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with Elina
pneame ?/Aug/75 -
with Jack Graham
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