53m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The most popular line on the Main Cliff offers some good, well-protected climbing on its first two pitches, but the final pitch requires care. Start at a long crack that sprouts from the apex of the massive rubble heap.
1) 4c, 20m. Take the clean-cut, widening crack-system to a ledge and belay on the left.
2) 5b, 16m. Climb steeply up into the corner on the right and then through the overhang with difficulty to better holds and a stance on a ledge above.
3) 17m. Move up the steep corner left of the edge of the slab for 5m and place some gear before stepping right onto the slab and climbing up this with care to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1st 2 pitches are well protected, the 3rd is quite the opposite...climb with caution!
Starting 1m left of a boulder at the top of the scree pile, in the centre of the main cliff, P1 takes the obvious crack line to its close on a vegitated ledge.
P2 steps up behind the flake to the left of the belay, to a R/wards rising break/ramp. From its R/H end, take the corner crack upto and over a capping overhang, following the crack to a big ledge belay with good nut anchors.
P3 rises left from the back corner of the ledge, up a small slab and around the arete, only to step back right around this after 7m, via a ledge to the bottom of a chossy slab. Good Hex/oversized nut at its base. Climb with extreme caution to the top where tree belays await at the back.

FAA. Bill Chevrest, Ian Duckworth.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Culm - When the tide's in., Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

alanblyth 28/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led p1, but had to back off p3 and let Jen deal with the loose slab from hell!

JendeHoxar 28/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Alan
Hidden 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
oscaig 27/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Half way up first pitch and realised had nothing large enough to protect last 10m of widening crack. Climbed back down and will return!

Mr Tickle 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Managed to get a snake bite on pitch 3!

with Gareth
Dilwat 06/Aug/16 AltLd dog

P2. Poor effort on the crux by me, but a great climb. A proper adventure.

nickdonohue 06/Aug/16 AltLd

Led 1 and 3. As per previous comments, pitches 1 & 2 give good quality crack climb climbing. Pitch 2 had a serious air about it but was very well protected - probably just the general vibe of the cliff soaking in! I must be perverse as I enjoyed pitch 3, again not as bad as it is made out (when dry anyway), with some useful steps in the vegetable slab, but gentle pushing down is definitely the order of the day rather than pulling on stuff! It would be very unpleasant if the vegetation was wet.

JackM92 19/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

40m of great crack climbing, then 15m of pulling on grass tufts, which are more solid than the rock. Bring some approach shoes for the walk down, it's like a jungle and is a long way back to the start!

with Australian Dave
Hidden 11/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 16/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
jonleighton 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Felt pretty serious, mainly because I kept expecting everything I touched or placed gear in to break off, pull out or otherwise detach itself. Great climbing though (except P3...)

Hidden 14/Sep/14 AltLd
Thinker01 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3 which were very easy and very sketchy respectively.

RFWilkie 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch, fun bushwack back down from the top!

with Mark
Hidden 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 29/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and 3.

with Matt
Robertgiddy 25/Jul/14 Lead
Jelly Mould Surfer 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 & P3 The first two pitches were excellent.....Pitch 3, now that's a different matter (but not as bad as people make out)

nickstephens 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Rupert
petecallaghan 21/Jun/14 2nd dog

Great leads by Adrian and David. I misread the second pitch, and bottled the crux, retreating. David made a ballsy sequence of moves over the crux - the prospect of an abseil retreat was too much for him. The rock was very friable in places, and the seconds got showered in medium-sized sharp fragments of rock - stay out of the fall line when belaying the first pitch. Overall tho the rock is solid. Top pitch is hilarious. A great experience.

with Adrian Swinscoe, David Llewelyn
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Aaswinscoe 21/Jun/14 Lead
Nick Russell 18/May/14 AltLd O/S

David ran together P1+2 on lead. I still feel justified claiming the alt lead for just that top pitch - it's rather engaging. It's a shame as it would otherwise be a 2 or even 3* crack climb!

jon_gill1 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

I led p1 and p3 and Chris enjoyed the quality climbing of p2. p3 is ridiculously scary with next to no gear!

with chris Lyness
waydan 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

All great crack climbing, loved it, top pitch is proper loose.

with Adam Buldock, El Swiftos
adam84 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Fantastic climb, and a strong lead by wayne, I have as of yet never been so scared on a second, I think it was the atmosphere of a multipitch sea cliff, and perhaps that this is right at the very pinnacle of my climbing ability. First pitch is lovely, hand jams all the way would love to lead it in a single pitch scenario, second pitch the 5b crux was definitely squeaky bum time. The crack up to roof is straight forward enough and with a slight bridge and good hand placement you are on to the face where you are presented with an ever tightening crack and a glassy face, I kicked my feet into the crack and went for the crux, had a little slip, but with numb fingers carefully sorted feet out and pulled up on crimps, crux sorted. Third pitch is chossy crap, would never like to lead it exposure is pretty massive by now too, fantastic day in all could have been warmer, really enjoyed climb. Feels like a benchmark day

kingholmesy ??/2014 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P3 run together.

with Colin
Graham Westbrook 06/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Tala A 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Fantastic climb up to the last pitch, best to ab off after first 2.

westong ??/2013 -
haz rudry ??/2013 AltLd
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead rpt
riddle 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Lead all three pitches, second pitch was a little stiffer than expected and the top pitch is a delight.

with Yasmina, Tom Elliot
mrtom 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Yasmina Couty, Roger HSmith
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd
alexjz 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Great climb, Dad's first multipitch. First 2 pitches are v good, last one is pretty terrible. But it's well worth doing for the 1st 2 pitches

with John Zalewski
burto 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
timdi ?/Jun/12 Lead
J.A.Thomson 27/May/12 2nd
with Hans
HansUDes 27/May/12 Lead O/S

It started to rain half way up and we got soaked. 3/4 up veer a bit to the left onto Prayermat (also an E1), which was just about ok in on the wet rock, then went back onto "Loose Women".

Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
jameshiggins 24/May/11 AltLd

Pitches 1 and 3.

with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 24/May/11 AltLd O/S

First 2 pitches are quite pleasant and pretty solid.

climbingpixie 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Ace! Good first crack, nice hard (but solid and protected) crux then an exciting final pitch.

with Andy
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
liamoloughlin 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/10 AltLd
lrandall 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Lead crux pitch, clean but with much hesitation at the crux moves. Good moves in a good position with brilliant protection. Close to HVS.

andy dunn 05/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

first taste of culm - pulled quite a bit off on the way up the first pitch - as a result I never really relaxed whilst leading the second pitch. Some nice climbing and I think it only felt hard due to the mind block going on. Top pitch is a neccesary evil to be able to leave the route.

with Tom
Jon_Warner 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Great first 2 pitches. Interesting top pitch... easy E1.

with Tom
tskelhon 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Got Sh@t on by a seagull!

Mike W 08/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with bigrob
Hidden 08/Jun/10 AltLd
culmclimberRob 06/Jun/10 AltLd
with jack Wolfenden
Hidden 12/May/10 AltLd dog
vertically_challenged 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
vertically_challenged 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S

top pitch is vegetated and very loose rock. i ended up climbing through gorse bush. first two pitches are very well protected and gorgeous to climb. great multi pitch, bit cold!!

westong 13/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
deklan 04/May/09 AltLd

led 5b pitch

with julie
cornishben 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Surprisingly solid and amenable first two pitches. Glad Chris led the last. Lovely popping out into the sunny bluebell wood

with Chris Sims
chris sm 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P3. Really good route. I guess it's graded for the "atmosphere" but the climbing felt really only HVS (and maybe soft in the grade even then). It's a lot easier then "Matchless" for example. Still, good line & lots of gear - a real classic Culm route. Top pitch is a 45 deg grass slope but not too bad really.

Hidden 18/Apr/09 AltLd
crobinson 18/Apr/09 AltLd

Fantastic, great climbing, strenuous crux with lovely moves, make sure you continue with the 3rd pitch to enter The Lost World!

with Tom Last
sebrider ?/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Cool, pitch I and 2 nice, went into gully for pitch 3!! What a pitch ;)

with Dan Walker
existing debt 26/Jun/08 2nd
with Iain a
Hidden 10/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/08 Lead dnf
Macca_7 29/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Great adventurous route up the heart of the crag. Oli led first pitch me second and third. Slightly damp day so top pitch was a little nervy!! Great climb

with Oli Raymond-Barker
ecowaller ??/2007 -
feilx 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Tom H
Marti999 ?/Aug/06 Lead
duncan 18/Jun/05 AltLd rpt
with Dan Donovan
TobyA 04/Oct/04 AltLd
with TobyFK
furry 27/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Neil
Hidden 25/Aug/03 AltLd
simon kimber ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Hazel Duff
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
DavidR 05/Oct/02 AltLd O/S
with Jemma Wadham
Jason Gotel ?/May/02 TR


Theeni ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S

First E1, bit of a panic

with Reg Measures
reg_measures ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S
with henry
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 AltLd
colin milton 08/Sep/96 AltLd O/S

eric lead crux pitch. found myself a friend

with eric milton
PaulTanton 28/Jul/96 Lead O/S
Roget 06/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
alan moore ??/1996 -

Magic; so much more fun than Sacre Couer.

Didymus 12/Jul/95 Lead dnf

got spooked!

Hidden 11/Jun/94 2nd
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
Ian Jones ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S

Eerie walk down. Nice to do something on the main cliff.

with Karen Ghiselli
rogerskews 25/May/91 AltLd
with Bryn Roberts
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 AltLd
frank ramsay ?/Dec/89 Solo
clark alston ?/Aug/87 Lead O/S
with Alan Pow
Simon cook ?/Aug/86 Lead
Hidden 13/Oct/85 2nd O/S
Mike C 23/Sep/81 AltLd

First onsight E1 lead.

with Chris Davis
The Reaper 24/Aug/81 AltLd
mark-abz 10/Jun/81 Lead
with Charlie G
duncan ?/May/80 AltLd O/S
with Mark ?
Steve Lewis 13/Apr/80 Lead O/S
with Gary
Paul Clarke ??/1979 -
with FMC
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 26
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set