UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

Rockfax Description
Two worthwhile pitches split by a ramble up Brown's Blunder.
1) 5c, 24m. Climb the right-hand crack in the lower wall to its end then gain the ramp with difficulty. Move left and then back right to a stance in the base of a groove (thread belays).
2) 5b, 18m. Climb the steep groove. At its top swing boldly up and right to gain a standing position with difficulty. Finish up and right again, more easily. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
steveb2006 14 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Ivy is encroaching on the crack of the first pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ivy is encroaching on the crack of the first pitch.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dovedale

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 3
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Fern Hill

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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