130m, 5 pitches.
Another very good line up the Rostrum which starts from the ledge at the top of the third pitch of the North Face route. This ledge can be accessed from directly from the Rostrum descent gully, or by climbing the first 3 pitches of the North Face Route. Requires big gear (#5 and #6 Camalots, at least one of each. Pitch 3 takes #6 for a long way).
Pitch 1. 5.11d. Off Fingers/Thin Hands crack to the right of the North Face finger crack pitch. Can be done as a single pitch in it' own right.
Pitch 2 5.10b. Climb flakes up the widening crack and then through a roof to a gear belay.
Pitch 3. 5.11a. The obvious wide crack is climbed for a long way until it narrows. Traverse right to the bolted belay at the top of Pitch 6 of the North Face Route.
Pitch 4. 5.10d. Start up Pitch 7 of the North Face Route until it is possible to enter (with difficulty) a tight flare on the right. Follow this to the ledge below a roof.
Pitch 5. 5.9. Traverse to the base of the easier offwidth crack and follow it to the top. This is the same as the usual finish to the North Face Route.
Pitch 1. 5.11d. Off Fingers/Thin Hands crack to the right of the North Face finger crack pitch. Can be done as a single pitch in it' own right.
Pitch 2 5.10b. Climb flakes up the widening crack and then through a roof to a gear belay.
Pitch 3. 5.11a. The obvious wide crack is climbed for a long way until it narrows. Traverse right to the bolted belay at the top of Pitch 6 of the North Face Route.
Pitch 4. 5.10d. Start up Pitch 7 of the North Face Route until it is possible to enter (with difficulty) a tight flare on the right. Follow this to the ledge below a roof.
Pitch 5. 5.9. Traverse to the base of the easier offwidth crack and follow it to the top. This is the same as the usual finish to the North Face Route.
Dale Bard, Ron Kauk Oct/1975.
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Route of Interest
Red Zinger
Grade: 5.11d ***
(Cookie Cliff)